Replumbing all pump/suction/return PVC lines

Switched

Well-known member
Dec 25, 2019
78
Adelaide
All,
To fix a broken valve, I am replacing all above ground pipes. Its 1980s pool and figure its a good time to refresh it all. Photos should just digging out around the entrance to the pumphouse.
I'll be using 50mm Jandy (3-way) valve for suction side, and 40mm Jandy (3-way) to return lines.

1) In filling in the void I created when digging out around the pipework, is it best to backfill with the clay/soil that came out or use sand?
2) Where I aim to cut the suction and return lines where I dug it out, it is below the water level. Before I cut the pipes and flood the area (hopefully not), what is the right way to deal with it, simply drain the pool to below the pipe level?
3) Looking online, I am seeing photos of the 50mm 3 way suction side valve with pipework slotting INSIDE the valve, and some where the 90 degree bends are on the OUTSIDE of the valve. Is there a best approach here for maximum flow?
4) In the new design, there will be some pipework that will run on the top of the concrete slab behind the pump (ie from the filter, it will run down to the concrete slab, and route over the slab to where the pipes run underground. Is there a recommended distance from the slab to the pvc pipe that I should maintain? I obviously dont want the pipe sitting on the concrete as I could imagine the vibration against the slab damaging the pipe. Would 1 inch above suffice?
5) Regarding my spa jets (previously they are cut off disconnected pipes), I've found 2 pipes in the pumphouse that is when blowing air through each line with a blower, I can see air coming out of the spa jets through those 2 pipes in the pumphouse. I imagine one is for the return pool pump water feed (WATER), and the other is for air, both are 40mm pipes. Regarding the AIR line, how should this 40 mm pipe be terminated in the pumphouse? currently its just an open pipe.
 

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Sorry you haven't received any input. I'll try to get you started, and I'm sure others will reply.
1 - Perhaps sand below around the pipes topped with clay/soil. East access later.
2 - Plug the suction and return line ports back at the pool. Winterized plugs would be good for that.
3 - It might depend on the 3-way valve you use. I think most have plumbing in the valve.
4 - I think a shim of about 1 - 2 inches would be good. However plan for anything that may need more space from the ground like an SWG.
5 - I'm not sure on that one. Maybe one of the others will have a thought.

I'll tag @ajw22 for some help.
 
Hi switched,
1: I would fill with sand, and remove any broken concrete or pointy rocks that can penetrate pipe with movement. As a top I like gravel or river rocks.
2: you would need expansion plugs to plug up all returns and intake(skimmer, maybe drain) depends on how it was originally designed.
3: Forgive me in advance, since we use inches. But it looks like you have 1.5” and 2” pipe so I would go with 1.5” 3 way valves. 2” couplers and 90s can over the outside will 1.5” pipe or street 90s can go on the inside. The restriction would be minimal especially if this is how the system ran before and there isn’t a change in pump.
4: I don’t think there is a specific requirement. I would recommend giving yourself a good foot or so just in case there needs to be a an addition or repair. I always like having a little extra pipe. If you have it close enough to the slab it can make it more difficult for a clean cut down the road.
5: it sounds like you are correct, one is the jet return and the other is air. It depends, will you be using the jets? I could be wrong but it looks like your air blower is sitting there. You would have to figure out which is the air and which is the water. It’s difficult to determine or decipher most of what’s going on with the pictures provided. Maybe additional pictures of the equipment of all angles and a picture of the pool and spa.

note: I would also suggest 2way diverters on all intakes and returns if the equipment is below the pool and spa. It will make any future repairs easier.
 
Your valves you can go inside them, or outside them with a fitting. It's 2inch pipe for the most part i see there so it wont matter which you do. Your almost there with your plans, your answers are in your questions. you seem to have it figured out. Keep the cuts about an inch or more off the cement if you can.

Drain that pool down a little so you can save yourself the hate of plumbing blind, wet, and stressed out. You would be a fool taking that when having the option of draining down the pool and not work ingin a leaky swamp. Once a year I have to cut 3, 5, 6,inch lines to a pool above me and replumb it with valves while the pool is draining in my face and floods a room.
you should be so lucky. drain the thing down and work peacefully

Just cap that air line at the pump room .
 
Sorry you haven't received any input. I'll try to get you started, and I'm sure others will reply.
1 - Perhaps sand below around the pipes topped with clay/soil. East access later.
2 - Plug the suction and return line ports back at the pool. Winterized plugs would be good for that.
3 - It might depend on the 3-way valve you use. I think most have plumbing in the valve.
4 - I think a shim of about 1 - 2 inches would be good. However plan for anything that may need more space from the ground like an SWG.
5 - I'm not sure on that one. Maybe one of the others will have a thought.

I'll tag @ajw22 for some help.
Thank you for the feedback! You’ve given me some confidence - although I’m leaning towards a drain of the pool.
I have to replace a pool light cable as well - so I might drain to below the light and deal with this at the same time!
 
Hi switched,
1: I would fill with sand, and remove any broken concrete or pointy rocks that can penetrate pipe with movement. As a top I like gravel or river rocks.
2: you would need expansion plugs to plug up all returns and intake(skimmer, maybe drain) depends on how it was originally designed.
3: Forgive me in advance, since we use inches. But it looks like you have 1.5” and 2” pipe so I would go with 1.5” 3 way valves. 2” couplers and 90s can over the outside will 1.5” pipe or street 90s can go on the inside. The restriction would be minimal especially if this is how the system ran before and there isn’t a change in pump.
4: I don’t think there is a specific requirement. I would recommend giving yourself a good foot or so just in case there needs to be a an addition or repair. I always like having a little extra pipe. If you have it close enough to the slab it can make it more difficult for a clean cut down the road.
5: it sounds like you are correct, one is the jet return and the other is air. It depends, will you be using the jets? I could be wrong but it looks like your air blower is sitting there. You would have to figure out which is the air and which is the water. It’s difficult to determine or decipher most of what’s going on with the pictures provided. Maybe additional pictures of the equipment of all angles and a picture of the pool and spa.

note: I would also suggest 2way diverters on all intakes and returns if the equipment is below the pool and spa. It will make any future repairs easier.
Thank you!
Yes I plan to make it all functional to restore it to its former 1980s glory! I haven’t used the jets as yet, I’ll attach a pump to it once I have put new piping on. Air blower is to replace one of my two there - they are also 1980s glory and about 400 decibels!
It seems I have two separate blowers that are floor and seat bubbles, and then a separate air line for the Venturi jets. I don’t know how the Venturi pipe should terminate in the pump house, open pipe or some fitting to adjust the air mix ratio?
Thanks for all your comments, much appreciated
 
Your valves you can go inside them, or outside them with a fitting. It's 2inch pipe for the most part i see there so it wont matter which you do. Your almost there with your plans, your answers are in your questions. you seem to have it figured out. Keep the cuts about an inch or more off the cement if you can.

Drain that pool down a little so you can save yourself the hate of plumbing blind, wet, and stressed out. You would be a fool taking that when having the option of draining down the pool and not work ingin a leaky swamp. Once a year I have to cut 3, 5, 6,inch lines to a pool above me and replumb it with valves while the pool is draining in my face and floods a room.
you should be so lucky. drain the thing down and work peacefully

Just cap that air line at the pump room .
Thanks! Yes two inch for the suction side and 1.5 inch for return side.
How do I cap the air Venturi line ? (ignore the blower that is separate)
I guess not having this working as yet means I don’t know for sure what it should look like and function.
Certainly edging towards a partial drain here.. I have enough stress going on I don’t think I can take any more 😅
 
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