Replumb for new pump

[mchoch]

I’m planning to replace my single speed Hayward pump with a VS Intelliflo that I got for free.

The Intelliflo has 2” fittings vs the Hayward 1.5” - I already have pool unions to handle this. But, the Intelliflo inlet is a couple of inches higher and needs to be an inch closer to the closest suction line (the closest line is my main drain). I don’t think I will have enough room to fit it in and I don’t love the short straight run into the pump either way.

Any suggestions to handle this? I was thinking of cutting all three lines near the ground and bring the whole section back away from the pump and up as a single piece but that seems a little lazy. Another idea I have is to raise straight vertically and reroute the closest suction line with the others into a 4 way fitting but I think that will require all new valves and fittings. My last idea is to hire out the job but I would like to know how I want it done first!

Thanks!

 

[Poolbreh]

I would redo it from the ground up to the filter. Replace those ball valves with 3x two way pentair/jandy valves. If you aren’t doing automation you’ll want the controls easily accessible on the back of the intelliflo. It could also be done with 2x three way valves.

 

[Poolbreh]

if I was to replumb it I would do something like this.
But if the controls seemed hard to access I would change it up.

 

[mchoch]

Thanks! That makes a lot of sense.

I already have a relocation kit for the controller so I can move the controls anywhere on a 20 ft cable.

 

[mchoch]

More fun- the new pump won’t fit under the backwash valve. Thinking of either rotating the filter 90 degrees so the valve is back behind (have easy access), or raising the filter up 2-3 inches on pavers. Either option reasonable? Or have better ideas?

 

[veraj]

There is a requirement of straight run on the suction side of the pump. For Pentair IntelliFlo pumps, a minimum of five times the pipe diameter of straight pipe is recommended on the suction side before any valves, elbows, or tees, to ensure proper priming and pump performance. Current run looks small, and rotating the filter may help here..

 

[wireform]

One more idea, if the pump wet end is still good you can change the back end with a Neptune but youll need to make sure it mates with your pump and that the mpv of the filter won't be in the way. Even if it necessitates moving the filter you still won't have to re-pipe the pump and deal with different hights versus new complete.

 

[HermanTX]

More fun- the new pump won’t fit under the backwash valve. Thinking of either rotating the filter 90 degrees so the valve is back behind (have easy access), or raising the filter up 2-3 inches on pavers. Either option reasonable? Or have better ideas?

View attachment 635751

Please identify where the 3 pipes are drawing suction from. Assume its 2 skimmers and main drain but need to confirmation of which is which to provide better options for hookup to the new VS pump.

 

[mchoch]

Main drain is closest to the pump. Skimmers are coming into the single T.

 

[mchoch]

Please identify where the 3 pipes are drawing suction from. Assume its 2 skimmers and main drain but need to confirmation of which is which to provide better options for hookup to the new VS pump.

Is there a preferred orientation of the suction lines? Generally, I’ve seen the skimmers tied together and the main drain closest to the pump.

 

[PoolStored]

There is a requirement of straight run on the suction side of the pump. For Pentair IntelliFlo pumps, a minimum of five times the pipe diameter of straight pipe is recommended on the suction side before any valves, elbows, or tees, to ensure proper priming and pump performance. Current run looks small, and rotating the filter may help here..

Yeah, I don't know why they keep that in the manuals. That is good engineering practice for pumps without pump baskets and is a hold over from the water distribution industry where the pipe enters directly into the impeller inlet.

Yes, some pool pump manufactures still recommend this for residential pool pumps, but with a pump basket in between the pipe and the impeller inlet, it won't make any difference as the pump basket is going to be the major contributor to flow turbulence into the impeller and not the pipe.

 

[HermanTX]

Is there a preferred orientation of the suction lines? Generally, I’ve seen the skimmers tied together and the main drain closest to the pump.

Many pools only have a single skimmer pipe (but 2 physical skimmers) and a main drain pipe. So you want to balance between the two. However in your case, if each skimmer is an independent line and the main drain is independent then having each with a 2 way valve provides optimum control of each. The only isssue is that those ball valves eventually seize up so it is best to replace those with a Jandy type 2-way valve. Those can be serviced without removing the body for the pipework.

 

[chrger1970]

Yeah, I don't know why they keep that in the manuals. That is good engineering practice for pumps without pump baskets and is a hold over from the water distribution industry where the pipe enters directly into the impeller inlet.

Yes, some pool pump manufactures still recommend this for residential pool pumps, but with a pump basket in between the pipe and the impeller inlet, it won't make any difference as the pump basket is going to be the major contributor to flow turbulence into the impeller and not the pipe.

My manifold is setup the same way, my suction lines go into a cross and right into the pump. I'm upgrading the cross to 2" and I'm going to leave around 5-6" from the cross to the pump.

 

[chrger1970]

Please identify where the 3 pipes are drawing suction from. Assume its 2 skimmers and main drain but need to confirmation of which is which to provide better options for hookup to the new VS pump.

Can you add a picture of what you're dealing with?

 

[mchoch]

Update- I ended up buying a 24” paver to raise my sand filter and used a keypad relocation kit to move the controls out from the back of the pump. I was also able to slide my filter back around 4” to give me a little extra straight before the pump. I had to do some futzing around to use the Hayward self aligning coupler that was on the old pump but I think it will work.

Still have to redo almost all of the PVC. My plan is to use the same layout but upgrade to pentair valves and run 2” instead of 1.5” for the straight into the pump. Should be pretty straight forward from here! I appreciate all the input!