Replastered in April......test results from the past 3 months..what are my concerns?

[4x4tx]

Dont think so...i am pretty sure this is mine

Pentair Praher Multiport DE Filter Valve, 2" Threaded, SM20-2, SM2-PP2, 27507-200-000 - 261152 - INYOPools.com

261152 - 2 in. Multiport Valve Threaded for D.E

www.inyopools.com

 

[ajw22]

See my edit on post #20 for parts breakdown. Call inyopools and they should be able to get you new gaskets and O rings if you want to rebuild it.

 

[4x4tx]

Thanks see it...so which one is the one when people say "spider gasket" ? Would the handle washer maybe if moving just be getting in they way keeping the valve from fully closing off?

What are your thoughts on my plaster spots?

 

[ajw22]

Part #2 is the spider gasket. Part #23 is the stem O ring that may be what you see rotted.

Plaster is rarely uniformly colored like paint for long. It is a natural product and will develop color variations. No one but you will likely notice it when they are enjoying your pool.

 

[mknauss]

Hard to see any spots on the plaster. Do realize dark plaster will always be splotchy.

 

[4x4tx]

Thanks...would i need part # 20 or #25? I was guessing on those but can cancel my amazon order order # 2 and #23. I also was going to order a label but only one I see that is match is $30 dollar

 

[ajw22]

#20 is an O ring. You might as well replace that one also. #25 is a washer.

 

[4x4tx]

Do you have anyone who can add some of the bleach for you daily or every other day while you are gone?

I have a 20k gallon pool and add about a half gallon a day, for typical usage ideas.

I was looking at your pool math results.....looks like you are adding 64oz of 12.5% bleach a day.....Just curious as if I am looking at making this switch...how does that save money, how much $$$ are you spending on bleach a month/year?

 

[IceShadow]

I typically buy 4 galls (so 8 days worth) for $14.50 or so from the local pool store. At the beginning of the month Menards ran a sale for 2 gallons for $4, so $8 for 8 days worth. Even at the more expensive option that comes out to about $54/mo in bleach. I also have to add muratic acid every once in a while, maybe $5-$10 worth a month.

I have considered putting my CYA up to 40 or even 50, to help cut down on daily losses, but seeing as I'm going to have to drain in the next week or two for a vinyl liner replacement, that doesn't make sense right now. Perhaps afterward.

Pool store would have me buying clarifier, powdered shock for weekly shock treatments, buckets of tablets/pucks, and then eventually draining and replacing the water in the pool. Having someone else care for the pool could easily run $125-150/mo.

 

[4x4tx]

You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.

Ive got a built in line that fills my pool and id say the water is cooler than the pool....not sure how much though, if my pool is upper 80s in temp id guess the city water is in around the lows 70s..is that enough difference to make a difference?

So you guys go rent a pump instead of using your pool pump to drain it? I have always used the cleaner hose hooked into my skimmer to ensure that he is pulling from the bottom...but thought there as a way to position valves to suck only from the main drains...is there not? is that a safety feature or something?

 

[IceShadow]

It is for the safety of your pool pump. If somehow your intakes go below the water line and you start sucking in air, your pool pump can become overheated. Sump pumps are cheaper than pool pumps.

 

[4x4tx]

I typically buy 4 galls (so 8 days worth) for $14.50 or so from the local pool store. At the beginning of the month Menards ran a sale for 2 gallons for $4, so $8 for 8 days worth. Even at the more expensive option that comes out to about $54/mo in bleach. I also have to add muratic acid every once in a while, maybe $5-$10 worth a month.

I have considered putting my CYA up to 40 or even 50, to help cut down on daily losses, but seeing as I'm going to have to drain in the next week or two for a vinyl liner replacement, that doesn't make sense right now. Perhaps afterward.

Pool store would have me buying clarifier, powdered shock for weekly shock treatments, buckets of tablets/pucks, and then eventually draining and replacing the water in the pool. Having someone else care for the pool could easily run $125-150/mo.

See thats where I am getting off on if this is the right move...other than the cya issue....which apparently my shock treatments and putting too many pucks in the water is causing my increase...i didnt know the shock was part of that problem...anyway right now i really only buy pucks and shock....ive had the same 150 pd bucket of shock for 2 years now...i may buy two buckets of pucks a year....i bought some borax and baking soda but rarely use it....have some acid around...but I dont really buy that many chemicals.....and i agree ive never thought that having a pool boy was worth 150 a month...but that much bleach everyday seems like a lot of trouble and adds up. Im not opposed to it but just making sure i understand it.

 

[IceShadow]

Your FC has been very very low on occasion, even down to 0, per your chart. There are several days between tests. Who knows how long it's been down at 0? If you haven't had an algae bloom yet, then great, but that's somewhat lucky.

You can see your CYA creeping up in your results as well, which means more and more FC needed to stay sanitary. So, you're looking at replacing water. Without pucks and dichlor/trichlor shock, and just using LC, you don't raise your CYA and water doesn't need replacement.

 

[4x4tx]

Ok so I got my TF-+100 refill kit in...looks like it came with a R-0871 which I did not have previously..what is that used for?

Also the R-0013 came in a larger bottle...any harm and filling up the smaller bottles that came wth it originally?

 

[4x4tx]

As I mentioned in my other thread, I am leaving for vacation for tomorrow for a week. I received my refill kit on the TF100 yesterday so did a full range of tests today...now this is my first time in a long long time of doing it myself so not sure how confident I am in the results...
but here they are

FC 1.0
PH - looked like 7.5 to me?
TA - 80
CH -400
CYA -70

How should I prepare today and tomorrow for a week of no treatments? I was not sure on the PH so will post pics of my test to folks thoughts if that 7.5 was correct. Also posted the chlorine test from that kit as well if anyone has thought on the yellow test.

In addition here are pics of my pool, if anyone sees any spots or areas of concern with plaster let me know.

Thanks in advance...I have been watching the videos and reading up in pool school so ready to get this under control myself with everyones help.

 

[4x4tx]

So my wife was out so had her run two samples to Leslie’s just for interest..pool and tap water... attached is what the manager got on his test to compare to my test ... and said the tap water was 7.4 ph and 125 calcium Hardness

 

[ajw22]

Your pH is fine. You should be VERY worried about your FC level.

With CYA 70 your FC should be 8-10. See FC/CYA Levels. Everything else is secondary.

We discussed your low FC in your other thread.

 

[4x4tx]

Your pH is fine. You should be VERY worried about your FC level.

With CYA 70 your FC should be 8-10. See FC/CYA Levels. Everything else is secondary.

We discussed your low FC in your other thread.

Ok agreed on the chart.....so for the week what is best way to get my FC to 8-10....do I just need to keep the floaters full of tabs starting tomorrow or do I actually need to throw in some shock? I guess the shock is what was increasing my calcium hardness so not sure I want to put any of that in there if possible but i will do whatever i need to do. I do have two gallons of bleach on hand as well.

 

[ajw22]

As discussed in your other thread use your tablets for your vacation and plan to drain water to lower CYA when you get back.

But if you dont get enough tabs to get your FC to 10-12 you may come back to a green pool.

What brand bleach do you have?

 

[4x4tx]

I guess that’s where I’m getting confused..does just putting the tabs in the floater enough to increase FC or does it neee immediate liquid product?

Bleach looks like target brand