Replacing Pump with Pentair Intelliflow

Jump to latest Follow Reply
M

MaxSmart

Well-known member
Jun 1, 2019
46
Windermere, FL
I'm tired of the drama with my current 2HP Super II pump. Having the case leaking issue that doesn't seem to be fixed with seal replacement.
* I have a heat pump, rooftop solar, and a suction-side cleaner, so the pool (<10k gal) still has a pretty big pump. I'm assuming the current pump was intelligently sized in order to handle the demands of the rooftop solar etc.
* I have an older Aqualink, I plan on upgrading it later to get wifi/app control and variable speed controlling. Meanwhile, my idea was to replace this pump with a variable speed pump.
* Have 20A breaker (230V) for the pump.

I had two ideas -
1. Pentair Intelliflow 011028 is variable speed and I could program it to run at lower speeds when the solar heat isn't going to be active (when the sun's on the other side of the house it tends to stay off anyway). Probably won't get much energy savings.
2. Pentair Intelliflow 011056 is variable speed and flow - seems like what I could do with this for the interim is program it to a particular flow rate, and if conditions are demanding (eg, rooftop solar activates) it would increase the flow to meet the need. Seems almost like I wouldn't need the upgraded Aqualink at all (except for the wanting to be able to start the hot tub remotely). But would it be compatible after upgrading to the latest Aqualink? Seeing some posts saying it isn't.

Am I on-base with my ideas? Any suggestions?

Last questions:
Will 20A (230v) breaker be adequate for these models?
Is there a better choice of model closer to the flow rate of my Super II 2HP pump that might be cheaper?
 
MaxSmart said:
Pentair Intelliflow 011056 is variable speed and flow - seems like what I could do with this for the interim is program it to a particular flow rate, and if conditions are demanding (eg, rooftop solar activates) it would increase the flow to meet the need. Seems almost like I wouldn't need the upgraded Aqualink at all (except for the wanting to be able to start the hot tub remotely). But would it be compatible after upgrading to the latest Aqualink? Seeing some posts saying it isn't.
Click to expand...
I have the 011056 pump and the iAquaLink with T.2 firmware and the 3.0 antenna. This is the latest version that I am aware of put out by Jandy. The iAqualink can control the Pentair pump with the RS485 cable can control the pump but you must select either VS (speed) or VF (flow). You cannot do both. It is part of the setup to select one or the other mode.
 
They both draw 11A with a max load of 16 so it will be fine. However, many pentair VS pumps cause occasional false trips so they make a breaker specifically for VS pumps. My own would trip randomly, sometimes 3 times a day and other times once a month. It was rather annoying. There is a Pentair branded one and also the generic Siemens breaker (both made by Siemens).

Pre supply chain issues, the Siemens breaker was about $30 cheaper but may not be now as all the pricing can change daily based on what’s in stock
 
 
Mine isn't GFCI. I'm being told I should upgrade the whole panel to be GFCI. Sound right? I have a GFCI breaker on the pool lights, but the other slots won't accommodate a GFCI breaker (it's a really small box, GE I believe).
 
You can also make the house breaker that feeds the pool panel a GFCI or Arc breaker. It doesn’t matter where it is in the run as long as it’s there somewhere.
 
Newdude said:
You can also make the house breaker that feeds the pool panel a GFCI or Arc breaker. It doesn’t matter where it is in the run as long as it’s there somewhere.
Click to expand...

Having the house breaker that feeds the pool panel a GFCI or Arc breaker makes it difficult to determine which device is causing a breaker trip. IT will matter a lot to your frustration level when you are trying to diagnose a breaker trip. Much better to have individual GFCI breakers on the pump, gas heater, and light circuits.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Thanks both for the responses. Suppose that my breaker box is an old GE TPL412R, which I believe has the 4 slots split by phase (left 2 one phase, right 2 the other) so it can only have one tandem breaker spanning the two phases (ie 240v). That slot is currently occupied by a 50A breaker for the heat pump. The pump is split (2 single breakers) on the 2 outside slots. So, would have to get a whole new panel installed (recommendations?) which I am guessing is going to cost me a lot. Would it be more worthwhile to have a GFCI breaker on the whole box, and concede that debugging the unlikely event of a faulty device would be more challenging? I always say with electrical, "do it right or do it twice", but this project is getting really expensive without even diving into replacing the Aqualink.
 
ajw22 said:
Having the house breaker that feeds the pool panel a GFCI or Arc breaker makes it difficult to determine which device is causing a breaker trip
Click to expand...
Yes and no. It’s easy enough to leave the heater (etc) breaker off at the pool panel for a day and see if the trip continues.

Is that small effort *if* the time ever comes worth the time and expense to replace the pool panel now ? I imagine that would be a debatable answer for most.

Still tho, Thanks for seeing it a different way so that OP knows all the angles. (y)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
MaxSmart said:
So, would have to get a whole new panel installed (recommendations?
Click to expand...
You’d need this or similar

Amazon.com: Intermatic T30004R Pool/Spa Control Panel 1 T104M DPST, Color : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Buy Intermatic T30004R Pool/Spa Control Panel 1 T104M DPST, Color: Pool & Spa Replacement Parts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

Plus the cost of breakers and possible replacing some legs that don’t fit/reach.

Or roll the dice that trouble shooting is a little more trial and error down the road.

Personally I’m torn here as to which would be best for you. I completely see the ‘do it once’ thoughts and wholeheartedly agree. I also have had many projects spiral over budget so I get that too. :ROFLMAO:
 
Heat pumps do not require a GFCI CB. Only gas heaters do. Another reason why you should upgrade the pool CB panel and do GFCI CB there.

Does your pool light have a GFCI CB?
 
ajw22 said:
Heat pumps do not require a GFCI CB. Only gas heaters do. Another reason why you should upgrade the pool CB panel and do GFCI CB there.

Does your pool light have a GFCI CB?
Click to expand...

Left to right - Lights, Aqualink, (blank), Pump phase 1, Heat Pump phase 1, Heat Pump phase 2, Pump Phase 2. (Pump are the ones switched off because it's leaking).
Breakers.jpg
I do hate this panel, but do I want to spend thousands replacing it?
 
MaxSmart said:
Left to right - Lights, Aqualink, (blank), Pump phase 1, Heat Pump phase 1, Heat Pump phase 2, Pump Phase 2. (Pump are the ones switched off because it's leaking).
View attachment 383927
I do hate this panel, but do I want to spend thousands replacing it?
Click to expand...

How much is safety worth?

In addition to the pump CB not being GFCI, the two pump CB legs are not ganged together so that when one side trip[s both circuits are unpowered. A person who is not familiar with your non-standard CB setup who tries to work on your pump may be in for a shocking surprise.

You need a new sub-panel and four new CB's, two of them GFCI. Unfortunately CB prices have risen in the last year. I would think it should cost you around $1,000. Easy enough to price out the CB's online.
 
Last edited:
ajw22 said:
In addition to the pump CB not being GFCI, the two pump CB legs are not ganged together so that when one side trip[s both circuits are unpowered. A person who is not familiar with your non-standard CB setup who tries to work on your pump may be in for a shocking surprise
Click to expand...
A very valid point but also easily explained to anyone coming to work on it down the road. If they don’t know what they are doing, that’s on them and not OP if they claimed to be qualified.

So lemme ask you this. On a scale of 1-10, with an already blown budget, how much would this bother *you* ? Enough to cancel a non-pool expense to fund it ? Say, an upcoming long weekend trip ? Or just begrudgingly deal for now and get on it as soon as it’s realistically feasible to upgrade it once this dust settles. Or somewhere in between that you’d try extra hard to find the funding, stopping shy of cancelling a family trip.

*your answer being totally subjective with no right/wrong answer. I’m 100% with you that the upgrade is a need and not a want. Just asking to what extent you would make it happen today.
 
I think Max should have upgraded the subpanel when he put in the HP. He had the electrician paid for and it would have just cost some materials. That sub-panel needs to be replaced eventually.

And there is not a 70amp GFCI CB readily available.

I would not put more money into workarounds rather then address the real issue of that old panel.

Replacing the subpanel will never get high on the budget until it burns out or injures someone.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.

Similar threads

N
Connecting Cleaner Booster Pump to Jandy Variable Speed Pump Auxiliary Relay
Replies
3
Views
89
Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
generessler
generessler
A
Power out/Communication Lost
Replies
8
Views
263
Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
AA_DFW
A
S
Pump Replacement Selection
Replies
2
Views
171
Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
Surferblue
S
D
VRV on solar, adjustable?
Replies
24
Views
386
Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
Dirk
Dirk
I
Pentair Intelliflow 3
Replies
4
Views
201
Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
Newdude
N
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply