Replacing Pentair LED light... few questions

Jump to latest Follow Reply
W

wwtennant

0
Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2015
41
Bellaire/TX
My Pentair LED light was not working this weekend. So, I first ensured that electricity was flowing as far as I could outside the pool and that all appeared to be fine. Next, I cut the breaker and pulled the light out of the water. Turned breaker back on and electricity is definitely flowing into the light housing. Cut breaker again and disassembled the light. The light was installed in 2012 so it has seen 7 years of service. There was some algae around the gasket (bright green and troubling itself as I have no algae anywhere else in the pool) and the inside of the light seemed dry but a bit corroded in places, particularly where the white wires connect to the LED board (see photos) where there was some "white particles". There was no electricity flowing in the white wires when attached to the board. Oddly, when i disconnected them from the board, the white wires then had electricity flowing through them (and yes, i cut the breaker when appropriate in all these steps).

My hope had been that I could simply replace the LED bulb like i see in some YouTube videos but my Pentair light does not work like that. So, now my questions are:
1) Best option to rid myself of these ~$400 Pentair board lights??
2) If I change the whole lighting fixture, does the whole wiring harness need to be replaced?
3) This is 120 Volt system, not 12V, so what is the electrocution risk of these lights in a pool in general? Does the breaker trip fast enough if they ever leaked? Am I better off swapping to a 12 Volt system and what does that entail?
- Basically asking for advice on how to proceed. I am good at most tasks including electrical but have never done anything in water with electricity, especially 120V.

Thoughts for me??
981359813698137
 
I started a post a few weeks ago asking if anyone made a fully-sealed pool light. Seems they don't.
All my pool lights have failed over the years. They always seem to get water in them.

Mine are all 120V lights. But from what I've read, it doesn't matter, 12 or 120V eventually it will get water inside and corrode.
Safety wise it doesn't matter.
 
CountyBumkin said:
I started a post a few weeks ago asking if anyone made a fully-sealed pool light. Seems they don't.
All my pool lights have failed over the years. They always seem to get water in them.

Mine are all 120V lights. But from what I've read, it doesn't matter, 12 or 120V eventually it will get water inside and corrode.
Safety wise it doesn't matter.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your reply. If I replace the light, will the company that I hire need to rerun wiring to the pool or can they use the existing wire but replace the light?? Also- why is the 12V not safer than the 120V - simply because the wiring system will trip instantly on either?? Thanks
 
update: My Intllibrite 5G did not die. It was tied into a GFI I was not aware it was tied into and that GFI had tripped. resetting the text to small font that is not accurate.

wwtennant - I'm in the same predicament. My Pentair IntelliBrite 5G color ( model number 601002 ) failed about a week ago. It was about two and a half years old.

I have found two repair options. there may be more.

1. replace the LED driver board pentair part number 619818Z for about $360
here is a representative list pricing of the kit. Pentair IntelliBrite 5g Color LED Light Engine 619818Z
note: I am not endorsing this company, just adding the link as a reference.

2. replace the LED driver board with an aftermarket version that is slightly different but advertised as "better" for about $250
Pentair® 619818Z Kit IntelliBrite® 5G PCBA Pool Aftermarket
Again, I am not endorsing the company, just linking for reference.

I'll be candid. I'm not very happy that my light died in under three years of light usage, and I've not decided which direction I'm planning to replace it. I liked that my easytouch could easily switch color scenes and I think that automatic switching would go away with a non-pentair LED. It would still be possible to change colors I think, but not be as easy as choosing the color from the pentair app on my phone.

reference links.

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...ight_Installation_and_Users_Guide_English.pdf
see page 18 for exploded parts diagram

If you replace the fixture, I think these all come with an attached cord sealed to the fixture. I'm not an expert on these but I think it is not possible to keep your cord and replace the fixture.
 
Last edited:
There is another option to replace the entire fixture. The new fixture will have its own cord.

Pentair 78458100 Amerlite 120V, 500W, 50' Cord with Stainless Steel Face Ring Pool Light

About $180.

LEDs use 30 to 40 watts vs 500W for the one above so swapping out the bulb with an LED replacement varies in cost depending on which bulb is chosen.

The downside of this option is integration with screen logic might not work since the color shows and all may be unknown to the easytouch. You don't list that in your sig so this may not be an issue for you.

good luck and post back what you decide to do.

Replacing the entire fixture is a pretty easy DIY job if you are at all comfortable with 120V wiring. There should be a junction box well above pool level near the equipment pad that has the connections.
 
Many thanks to everyone that replied. Just an update to end this thread. I ordered this
aftermarket version that is slightly different but advertised as "better" for about $250
Pentair® 619818Z Kit IntelliBrite® 5G PCBA Pool Aftermarket that Dan-H mentioned above.

The company was great about answering questions on the phone and very knowledgeable about their product and the process for me to install it. They noted to me that the Pentair IntelliBrite lights have a transformer in the light that is knocking the voltage from 120V to 12V and had me ensure that the transformer was still functioning correctly prior to ordering the light. Thus, I used my multi-meter to measure the current at the 2 electrical leads attached to the current Pentair board and was getting the correct 12-13V. So, I ordered their replacement which also came with a new gasket.

The new light is now installed and operating correctly. I have only had it for 2 weeks but it seems to be working great. I have not experimented with all the light settings but it does cycle through all the colors nicely and is as bright or brighter than my original Pentair IntelliBrite. Hope this helps somebody!! Thanks again for the help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dan-H
Warren,

Thanks for posting your results. I'm curious, Is the light integrated with any automation?

as I noted above it turns out my 5G color did not fail. I was about to order the same unit but was uncertain how the automation would work with my easytouch/screenlogic setup.

Thanks again.

Dan
 
Dan-H said:
Warren,

Thanks for posting your results. I'm curious, Is the light integrated with any automation?

as I noted above it turns out my 5G color did not fail. I was about to order the same unit but was uncertain how the automation would work with my easytouch/screenlogic setup.

Thanks again.

Dan
Click to expand...
I don't have the easytouch/screenlogic so I don't know how it would work with the automation. For me, it simply works off the lightswitch but i have not really tried the different settings. I would call the company and ask them- they were very honest and forthcoming about the product when I called. Thanks
 
Dan-H said:
Warren,

Thanks for posting your results. I'm curious, Is the light integrated with any automation?

as I noted above it turns out my 5G color did not fail. I was about to order the same unit but was uncertain how the automation would work with my easytouch/screenlogic setup.

Thanks again.

Dan
Click to expand...
From thier site :

** NOTE ** These LED boards can be used with optional home automation systems, third party light controllers, external controllers, remotes and power controllers; but because this board has more colors and shows then OEM, some pre-programmed remote control options can not reach all of the colors and shows. Integration with home automation systems and software from most companies have been and can be integrated to function properly. Most customers use the free built in option. Lights, colors and shows are controlled by simply using your existing light switch. If you have more than one fixture, you will not be able to sync lights unless you replace all the boards at the same time. Please call us if you have any questions.
 
as I mentioned above my intellibrite did not die so I'm no longer in the market for one, but I like to stay on top of what I might need to buy, just in case.

I emailed them asking how the light would work with automation, here was their reply

Dan,
See the attached Manual. The colors change by the power going on and off. The LED needs to go through the cycle in order as opposed to switching to specific color of choice.

We currently have an app in the works. It isn't ready at this time.

Let me know if you have further questions!


Manual attached was one page, and here is the programming section:

START-UP
• The lamp should only operate underwater while secured to the vertical walls of the pool. Never switch on the
lamp if it is not underwater.
• In case of colored lamps, 16 pre-programmed effects and combinations may be selected using the on/off
switch of your pool lights. Just switch off and switch on within 2 seconds.
• If the light is powered off for more than 20 seconds, it will keep the latest program when it is turned on again
(Memory function).
• To achieve synchronization, confirm all lamps are installed correctly on the same switch and after they are
powered off for more than 20 seconds, switch on and switch off continuously three times, and then finally turn
them on again. They will all go to program #1. Now you can select a program for them by flipping switch off and
on within 8 seconds. (Reset function)


Looking forward, I think I'd be OK with this replacement unit if there was an app to control the lighting choice. I usually keep it on the same theme, however and it is really convenient to change colors from a phone.

I mean a few mins before a kids birthday party heads out for a night swim, set the pool to blood red, slide in and float face down in a rescue float ... BWAAAAHAHAHAAA
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
wwtennant said:
Many thanks to everyone that replied. Just an update to end this thread. I ordered this
aftermarket version that is slightly different but advertised as "better" for about $250
Pentair® 619818Z Kit IntelliBrite® 5G PCBA Pool Aftermarket that Dan-H mentioned above.

The company was great about answering questions on the phone and very knowledgeable about their product and the process for me to install it. They noted to me that the Pentair IntelliBrite lights have a transformer in the light that is knocking the voltage from 120V to 12V and had me ensure that the transformer was still functioning correctly prior to ordering the light. Thus, I used my multi-meter to measure the current at the 2 electrical leads attached to the current Pentair board and was getting the correct 12-13V. So, I ordered their replacement which also came with a new gasket.

The new light is now installed and operating correctly. I have only had it for 2 weeks but it seems to be working great. I have not experimented with all the light settings but it does cycle through all the colors nicely and is as bright or brighter than my original Pentair IntelliBrite. Hope this helps somebody!! Thanks again for the help.
Click to expand...

I’m looking at the cheaper version of the Florida sunseeker bulb. What is the diff between the Intellibrite and the Ameribrite? Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply