Replaced cell, still having problems

[WhitB08]

Good afternoo! I noticed this season I had to bump up the percentage of run time to higher than normal levels to keep up with the needed chlorine production. It also occurred to me that it seemed like I was having to add too much salt for the minimal amount of water loss I had. This week it was clear there was a problem when my salt reading on my Aqua Pod would still drop even after adding salt. Although I have the Taylor K-2006, i’ve always relied on my salt readings from the system, but I obviously realize now I need that kit as well. Anyway in a time crunch I started chlorinating with bleach and ordered a replacement cell. I previosly had a t-cell-15 and the replacement is the w3t-cell-15. I installed it yesterday and I’m still getting a check system error message, now for “high salt/amps”. I’ve probably drained about 8 inches total and replaced with fresh water. I ran to the pool store just now and he told me I’m now at about 3600 ppm. when I run the diagnostics to check the level at is stopping at 4800 ppm and cutting off going back to the check system high salt message. I just drained a couple more inches and I am refilling. I can only drain 3 to 4 inches at a time, because I have a large tanning ledge and if the water gets too low on it, the liner rips out from the corners. Any other troubleshooting ideas? I have confirmed that and the configuration is set to T cell 15 as that’s what I already had before, and to my knowledge this requires no calibration and should work fine with my system. I guess it could still be high salt but I feel like I should be getting a reading. Some other threads I found mention it could be the actual automation system or a problem on the board that needs soldering…
cell model w3t-cell-15 serial #3E21193-704120
system is Hayward Goldline Aqua Plus model # inside the box reads Pl-xx-xx ? But the manual says PL-PLUS

 

[JamesW]

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[WhitB08]

When I go to the diagnostic screen and hit the plus to run it, itcounts down from 15. It’s settled at +25.92v 10.08A. 80°F 4700PPM
usually after the readings have stopped I have the option to hit the + and save the new numbers. It does not let me do that. it immediately moves from the screen of the readings to “chlorinator off high salt/amps”

 

[JamesW]

The software shuts the unit off at 8 or 10 amps depending on the software version.

Most versions use 8 amps.

The actual salinity is probably close to 4,700 ppm.

You should get a K-1766 salt test kit to verify.

I ran to the pool store just now and he told me I’m now at about 3600 ppm.

We basically have zero confidence in pool store readings.

 

[WhitB08]

I know, I know, lol! I just can’t get the K-1766 here as quickly as I need it. So would you continue to drain and refill small amounts while waiting on the kit? Do you feel like high salt is the issue and things will be running smoothly once I can dilute enough?

 

[JamesW]

So would you continue to drain and refill small amounts while waiting on the kit?

Yes.

Do you feel like high salt is the issue and things will be running smoothly once I can dilute enough?

Yes.

When the problem is with the circuit board, the voltage is usually in the 40 volt range.

Since the voltage is in the 24 to 26 volt range, the problem is most likely high salinity.

 

[WhitB08]

Thank you so much for your time and help! Hopefully my K-1766 will be here early next week. Liquid chlorinator is getting hard to find.

 

[JamesW]

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com