Replace flex hose from pump to filter

[mathizeasy]

The flex pipe from my pump to filter has a crack and it needs to be replaced - I live in south Texas on the coast, and it looks like the sun has melted the pipe to the point it has a crack. The pipe is attached to both pump and filter by a screw clamp.[attachment=2:277b1ouy]crack.jpg[/attachment:277b1ouy][attachment=1:277b1ouy]screw clamp.jpg[/attachment:277b1ouy][attachment=0:277b1ouy]pipe.jpg[/attachment:277b1ouy]

I am nervous about removing the pipe
Question 1: I know I need to put the stopper in the skimmer - do I need to secure anything else?
Question 2: What if I replace the pipe and it leaks around the clamp? I do not want to glue it because what if I have to replace it again.
Not that I am weak - but I am thinking about using a drill to tighten
Question 3: Can I get this pipe from the local hardware store? and does it need to meet certain specs. Because this pipe looks different from the others, they are white in color(seen in the first pic)

 

[Bama Rambler]

I recommend hard piping it instead of going back with hose. A few fittings and some pipe & glue is all it takes. I'd install a union in the line too.

If you do decide on hose a 1½" pressure rated hose will work. Don't tighten the clamps with a drill. You'll probably strip them out. Use a small ratchet and 5/16" socket and tighten them gently.

 

[Rangeball]

That's a really simple fix. Plug the skimmer and also the return unless you have a way to shut a valve to it. You'll lose some water that's in the hose, but no big deal. Take the hose off, take it to the store, have them cut you a new piece of the same length making sure it's pressure treated like bama said above, clamp back on and you're back in business.

 

[mathizeasy]

Bama Rambler - when using hard piping do I create a 90 degree angle? does the piping need to be leveled? or does it matter? and what is a union? Thanks for the advice on tightening.

Rangeball - thanks for all the info, I feel a lot more comfortable.

 

[Guest]

I'm going to second Bama's suggestion. The flex will just do the same thing again, whereas the rigid will probably last longer than the pool! Do it right once and be done

 

[waste]

Welcome to TFP!!

My mind always boggles (as all thinking minds should) when people use clamps on pipes that will readily accept glue

To combine Bama and Rangeball's advice, you can thread in 1.5" male adapters (schedule 40 ) to the pump and the multi (filter) (use teflon tape to prevent leaks!) and then use flex pipe or ridged PVC to connect them. And I FULLY agree with Bama on the union!!

Sounds like you need a little primer on working with PVC - when you're ready to tackle this, let us know and we'll 'hold your hand' and walk you through it.

Of course, as a temp fix, all you need is a coupling glued onto the pipe where the split is I'll explain more when you're ready to make the fix.

 

[mathizeasy]

I am really nervous about the hard pipe - I would love all the advice I can get.

Bama - noticed you use an 8 gal liquidator - would love more info.

 

[mathizeasy]

Waste - thank you so much :-D

I think I will tackle this in the next day or 2.
When installing the hard pipe it would come approx 3 ft vertical from the pump and 1-1/2 foot horizontal to the filter.
I get putting in male adapters at both ends and a union. Where would you suggest putting the union? I'm thinking on the vertical pipe not the horizontal???
Supplies would be pvc pipe, male connectors (2), elbow (1), teflon tape, and glue. Is there a need for any cleaning solvent?

Please give me any other info I may need. :bowdown:

 

[skinsfan44]

I would definitely recommend using a cleaning solvent, followed by primer- then glue.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

When using new fittings, they are usually already clean so no cleaner is needed. Just Prime, Glue, Wait a half hour, Normalize the skimmer and returns, Turn on the pump and check for leaks.

Scott

 

[Bama Rambler]

There are many ways to do the plumbing and only a few of them wrong but here's how I would do it.

• Remove the flex and fittings and clean the internal threads good.[/*:m:7vkh86l1]
• Put plastic safe pipe paste on threaded adaptors and thread them into the pump and filter a little more than hand tight.[/*:m:7vkh86l1]
• Route piping from pump to filter using a 90º elbow[/*:m:7vkh86l1]
• Place a union in the horizontal pipe.[/*:m:7vkh86l1]

This is just one way to do it and it really doesn't matter whether you put the union in the vertical or the horizontal run it's there to allow you to remove the equipment without having to cut the piping.

I'd be glad to talk to you about the Liquidator. Start a new thread asking what you want to know or PM me and I'll decide if your question needs to be public.

 

[Rangeball]

I also agree hard plumbed is a better option, but not everyone can work up the nerve to tackle it. In case you don't, replacing the hose is an easy fix and shouldn't bother you at all. You'll also know exactly how to do it next time

If you do decide to take on the PVC, I would recommend getting everything cut to size and assembled WITHOUT GLUE and make sure each piece is the correct length and will fit properly. Then go back and glue the joints.

 

[waste]

I knew I had posted it somewhere (it was on another site )

Please read this and ask any follow up questions you may have.

Tom, I think you'll be pleasently suprised at how easily the fix can be made You've got all the room you need to make the change-out! I can't tell from the pics if it's 1.5" or 2" pipe, just be sure to get the same sized pipe and fittings.
Things you'll need:
~ 2' pipe SCH 40
1- 90 elbow (sch 40 socket X socket - pipe will be glued into the 90)
1- Union (sch 40, pipe will glue into the ends, be sure to take care of the o-ring, lube it whenever you take the union apart with silicone or teflon based lube and don't let it get lost!!)
1- coupling (sch 40)
PVC glue and primer
Hacksaw with good blade
Tape measure
Pencil
Rag

OK, materials procured, we're set to do this. What we're going to do is cut out the offending, threaded fittings and replace them with a glued one (there is no reason for a threaded connection there - as it's glued into imobile pipes, you can't tighten it nor unthread it to fix the leak, we take the risk of the threads leaking again away). Starting on the horizontal pipe, cut the pipe~ 3" back from the fitting, try to keep the cuts perpendicular to the pipe - anything over 1/8" out of perpendicular should be recut so that you have a good straight cut (if you want to cheat, you can measure off of the fitting and make a few pencil marks on the pipe so that you have a guide for your cut). Next cut the vertical pipe the same way. Use the rag to rub off the burrs from the cut ends.
Bad part is out - now we'll install the new piece. Following the instructions on the glue can - glue the coupling to the vertical pipe and the union to the hoizontal pipe(wipe any drips or excess glue off with the rag - let's keep this looking professional ). Dry fit (push it into it without glue) a piece of pipe into the union (the length of the pipe isn't crucial, but it needs to be long enough to dry fit the 90 onto the other end and be over the coupling on the vertical pipe- measure between the open end of the 90 and the coupling and add the extra for the depth of the fitting sockets (usually 2.5" - but double check that your fittings have a 1.25" socket). Cut a piece of pipe that size and glue it into the coupling. Now dry fit the 90 on the top of the new piece and measure between the open union end and the open 90 end, add the 2.5" and cut the final piece of pipe. Glue the last piece into the 90, now take the union apart and glue the piece with the 90 on it into the 1/2 union. Final step is to glue the 90 onto the vertical pipe - once it's on, reconnect the union. Let the glue set for the specified amount of time and you're ready to start up the pump again, with no leaks!

The whole reason for the union is to enable you to be able to get the last connection on the 90 - it's going to be the most expensive part to buy, but is a real life saver - it also allows you to 'tinker' with the filter end of the pipe without having to cut the pipe again. I'd imagine that this will cost < $30 for materials and take < 45 min. Please post any questions about anything I've been unclear on and I'd love to hear the final result!! . Good luck with this and if I can be of more service, never hesitate to ask! - Ted

(Finding that saved me ~ 1/2 hour of typing )

We're all here with you to help!

 

[mathizeasy]

Thanks everyone - I feel extremely confident.

One more question: There is an adapter (see 2nd pic) that screws into both the pump and filter. They look perfectly fine and do not leak. Do I fix what is not broken? or is it better to replace everything since I am already there? To be honest that is the part that makes me a little nervous, everything else I am so ready to tackle.

 

[Bama Rambler]

If you're going with hard pipe you'll have to replae them because the threaded adapters for hard pipe are slip joints on the pipe side.

If you're going back with hose they're probably fine to leave and reuse.

 

[wasmussen]

I hard plumbed my pump and used hoses too. It's an easy fix for hard plumbing. I live in south Texas too. In Corpus Christi where it is hot most of the yeart! LOL
If you live close to Corpus I would be happy to show you how easy it is to fix. My 14 year old daughter even helped me put it all together. I was glad to get my after market pump going with my Intex pool I really hate.

 

[mathizeasy]

Wasmussen - is 4 hours too far lol.
I would have already tackled this but the weather is not cooperating and too many other previous engagements.
It rained this morning again. Loving the rain hating the inconvenience.
Looks like an early evening project.

 

[wasmussen]

Well good luck with it Mathizeasy. It's really not hard to do at all. Mine cost me about $20.00 tops in parts to get it going. It rained here too and for the next three days it will. Due to the Hurricane in Mexico/Texas border.