Reg Chlorinator not working, but the boost does work (salt)… ?

JerryGarcia

Member
Jul 16, 2022
8
Michigan
Above ground pool, installed mid last year. Intex pump/chlorinator. This seems to be a trend even from the start of installation… there are 2 chlorinator plugs going into the water flow (1 reg, 1 boost)… i always seem to loose chlorine over a week or two when the system is in auto mode (no boost). It can run 4 hrs per day, 8, or even 12… i always have to turn on the boost (manual only option) once per week just for like 8-12 hrs, and my chlorine spikes up again…. The boost works great! The regular setting sucks like it doesnt even work… i even checked the voltage output to regular plug and its getting voltage when on… all my chem levels are good. Salt level is good…. Stumped…Hmmmm0D936215-3A45-4F3E-904B-0A85E8ABFB22.jpeg
 
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Boost just runs it continuously for more than what is set - generally 4-8x’s the amount of hours you have programmed but the amount varies between models - check your manual for your model.
It isn’t any thing different (other than extended runtime) or a special cell that’s only used for boost.
 
Boost just runs it continuously for more than what is set - generally 4-8x’s the amount of hours you have programmed but the amount varies between models - check your manual for your model.
It isn’t any thing different (other than extended runtime) or a special cell that’s only used for boost.
Thank you for ur comment, but i dont think you understand the question… my boost works fine, the regular chlorinator does not work very well, and i need to use the boost regularly… any idea why this is my normal? It isn’t normal for other salt pools.
 
on regular mode it can only run so many hours- this amount of hours is obviously not enough to produce the chlorine u need. Boost runs it for more hours thus producing more chlorine. There is nothing different from normal mode or boost other than the amount of hours it produces chlorine.
Swg’s- boost or not - large or small- will not overcome an algae problem.
They are just fc maintainers.
The SLAM Process is the only way to eradicate algae.
After passing all 3 end of slam criteria ss listed in the article, you should increase cya to around 70 to help the swg maintain as it produces small amounts of fc slowly over time. This prevents fc from being consumed by the sun as quickly as it’s produced.
Follow the FC/CYA Levels
 
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on regular mode it can only run so many hours- this amount of hours is obviously not enough to produce the chlorine u need. Boost runs it for more hours thus producing more chlorine. There is nothing different from normal mode or boost other than the amount of hours it produces chlorine.
Swg’s- boost or not - large or small- will not overcome an algae problem.
They are just fc maintainers.
The SLAM Process is the only way to eradicate algae.
After passing all 3 end of slam criteria ss listed in the article, you should increase cya to around 70 to help the swg maintain as it produces small amounts of fc slowly over time. This prevents fc from being consumed by the sun as quickly as it’s produced.
Follow the FC/CYA Levels
There IS a difference between reg and boost… you can see in my pic, that one electrical connector is for regular, the other turns on when in boost mode (i proved this with volt meter)… again, the same hours for regular (ie: 8 hrs) sucks compared to the same 8 hrs with boost. It seems like reg wont hold the FC levels
 
Hey JG and Welcome !!! Intex equipment is horribly undersized, even when you upgrade several sizes. I get why, my SWG and controller was $1500, and I don't fault them one bit. But it is what it is. The units either need to be run around the clock in the peak season, or you need to supplement with liquid bleach when they under produce.

Seeing how the loss of chlorine production snuck up on you, perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if you need to address any issues that arose from being low. Once we have that answer we can hatch a plan moving forward. (y)
 
In a perfect world That unit should produce around 4.4ppm of fc in your pool volume if it runs for 12 hrs -
This is not taking into account loss from the sun or other factors.
The average algae free pool consumes 2-4 ppm fc daily give or take at optimal cya levels. FC/CYA Levels
You should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to rule out organics consuming your fc.
That requires an fas/dpd test to accomplish.
Test Kits Compared
Test strips simply don’t have the accuracy or reliability to do this .
Once u rule out algae you can do an overnight chlorine gain test to determine how much the unit actually produces in your pool & to figure out if the cell is failing.
I have no doubt that you are getting a voltage reading on each cell at different times.
One cell is the actual titanium swg cell & one is the E.C.O. Cell - an oxidizer cell that doesn’t produce fc at all.
In what combinations they are programmed to run, together or separately is not known.

Here’s the manual to the unit.
& some info on the eco portion.
HOW THE ELECTROCATALYTIC OXIDATION WORKS

The Electrocatalytic Oxidation (E.C.O.) is an Advanced Oxidation Processes (AOPs). When
direct current is applied to the electrocatalytic oxidation electrodes, water will be discharged to
generate “hydroxyl radicals”. The hydroxyl radical is a powerful oxidant, which oxidizes organic
contaminants, and destroys bacteria and algae. Hydroxyl radicals in combination with free
available chlorine provide the strongest and safest pool water sanitation.
 
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Not sure what the output of your SWG is but you can run it more than once to maintain. Might take a bit to find your good zone but can supplement with liquid chlorine until you do.

I have the Intex SWG not the cool ones like other people hehe. But, I have found my sweet spot every 12 hours I run my pump for 8 hours & SWG for 7 hours. It has been able to maintain in intense sun with over 100 degree temps.

I wish you luck! And these helpful folks will help you find your sweet spot…after SLAM of course.
 
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