Hello, new to the forum. My Intermatic timer failed (220v) so I replaced the internals. After doing this I seem to have a reduced flow coming from the pump. I initially thought a wire was loose, but I double checked and everything seems tight. I'm 99% sure I wired it in the same as the old one. Did I somehow reverse the polarity? How can I check this?
Reduced Flow After Installing New Timer
- Thread starter blarharhar
- Start date
- May 3, 2007
- 17,172
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Welcome to the forum.
The timer should have no impact on the flow other than to turn it on or off. It is probably just a coincidence. Has the filter pressure changed at all?
Also, please fill out your signature as described here: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
The timer should have no impact on the flow other than to turn it on or off. It is probably just a coincidence. Has the filter pressure changed at all?
Also, please fill out your signature as described here: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
Thank you mas985, I would tend to agree that switching the timer out would have no affect on the pump. However, this does not appear to be the case. Can someone verify this looks to be the correct wiring sequence?
- May 3, 2007
- 17,172
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Is your pump motor a two speed? If just a single speed and 240v, there should only be two wires that power the pump. The only other wires should be a ground (green) and a bond wire (bare copper).
What does circuit 1 & 2 mean? Are they the two hot leads from a dual breaker?
What does circuit 1 & 2 mean? Are they the two hot leads from a dual breaker?
Pretty sure it is a two speed motor. Unfortunately we inherited the pump when we purchased the home 2 years ago and the face plate is rusted. On the right it says "HP 1.5 1/4" and I believe the RPMs are labeled "3450/1725."
I have two (black) load lines connecting 2&4 to the pump, a green ground (also a ground on the motor itself on top of the pump) and then the fourth (red) wire which heads to terminal 1. I agree that the fourth wire is a little puzzling, but when I disconnect it from terminal 1 the pump does not operate.
I do get 240V readings off of the timer terminals when I measure off 1&4 and 2&3. This whole box is a mess as it used to control a heater and pool lights which were disconnected at some point.
I have two (black) load lines connecting 2&4 to the pump, a green ground (also a ground on the motor itself on top of the pump) and then the fourth (red) wire which heads to terminal 1. I agree that the fourth wire is a little puzzling, but when I disconnect it from terminal 1 the pump does not operate.
I do get 240V readings off of the timer terminals when I measure off 1&4 and 2&3. This whole box is a mess as it used to control a heater and pool lights which were disconnected at some point.
And after several hours of googling, I found out this is a switch mechanism that I should've highlighted...
- May 3, 2007
- 17,172
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If it is a two speed motor, you will need a two speed timer to switch speeds. Otherwise you will need to have a manual switch to switch between the speeds.
Is the bottom pic a manual switch? Is there a toggle on the outside of the cabinet?
With a two speed motor, there is a common line and the second power line is only applied to one of the two other lines at one time which is why you need a switch of some sort.
Is the bottom pic a manual switch? Is there a toggle on the outside of the cabinet?
With a two speed motor, there is a common line and the second power line is only applied to one of the two other lines at one time which is why you need a switch of some sort.