Rebar exposed on steps, best way to fix?

[TXDogKindness]

Hello! I have three pieces of rebar showing through the shotcrete on my second step.

Is this common or sloppy construction (or both)?

What is the best way to fix this and will the fix have a negative impact on the structure?

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Either the steel guys or the gunite guys did not measure or follow the plans properly.

That rebar needs to be cut out and the holes filled with hydraulic cement. Cutting out the rebar will not effect the pool structure. There is enough other rebar in there.

If plastered over the rebar will rust and you will develop rust stains in the plaster.

All rebar should be covered by at least an inch of gunite to prevent rusting and stains.

@AQUA~HOLICS may have thoughts.

 

[TXDogKindness]

Thanks for the information, that is very helpful.

I will ask for the fix exactly as you described; removal of one inch and covered by hydraulic cement.

Thanks again!

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

The problem actually started at excavation, steel typically will fallow the contour of the excavation especially when steps are to be constructed. Shotcrete crew had the chance to correct because they all carry Hickey-Bars just for this reason. Now for the repair, exposing a few inches of rebar in each direction and cutting them off then spray paint the ends with a Rust-Oleum, then hydraulic cement patch and leave the surface scratched. Being only around 18” in depth for the repair the stress is minimum.
If a steel engineering firm was to get involved their advise would be completely different.

 

[TXDogKindness]

The problem actually started at excavation, steel typically will fallow the contour of the excavation especially when steps are to be constructed. Shotcrete crew had the chance to correct because they all carry Hickey-Bars just for this reason. Now for the repair, exposing a few inches of rebar in each direction and cutting them off then spray paint the ends with a Rust-Oleum, then hydraulic cement patch and leave the surface scratched. Being only around 18” in depth for the repair the stress is minimum.
If a steel engineering firm was to get involved their advise would be completely different.

The problem actually started at excavation, steel typically will fallow the contour of the excavation especially when steps are to be constructed. Shotcrete crew had the chance to correct because they all carry Hickey-Bars just for this reason. Now for the repair, exposing a few inches of rebar in each direction and cutting them off then spray paint the ends with a Rust-Oleum, then hydraulic cement patch and leave the surface scratched. Being only around 18” in depth for the repair the stress is minimum.
If a steel engineering firm was to get involved their advice would be completely different.

Thanks for your reply!

My project manager was new so may not have noticed if the excavation was off. He is no longer with the PB. I have a new PM but he said this isn’t an issue and is pretty common.

I really appreciate all the info. I am reading a lot on TFP and learning a ton. For instance, the PM never told me to water the gunite. It was shot in July, in Texas and except for the very bottom, the pool was bone dry after three days.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Hydration of the Shotcrete has a direct influence on the strength (PSI) of the finished product. The slower the curing time the stronger it will become. Continuous hydration in the first 7 days is what I try to achieve (picture).
Im not stating that your shell is compromised in any way, I’m only explaining my process in this phase of the construction.

 

[ajw22]

Watering New Gunite and Concrete - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[TXDogKindness]

Hydration of the Shotcrete has a direct influence on the strength (PSI) of the finished product. The slower the curing time the stronger it will become. Continuous hydration in the first 7 days is what I try to achieve (picture).
Im not stating that your shell is compromised in any way, I’m only explaining my process in this phase of the construction.

I understand, and thanks so much for the information. You have been really helpful and I truly appreciate it. Btw - I saw that picture of your clients pool in the other thread and quickly realized my install was less than ideal. I am starting to lose sleep over this pool and decided to get an engineer out here to check it out. Overkill perhaps, but a good nights sleep is important. Thanks again.

 

[TXDogKindness]

Watering New Gunite and Concrete - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for this information. You are very helpful! My only wish is that I found TFP sooner.

 

[TXDogKindness]

I wanted to follow up and provide an update, and thank you again for all of the wonderful information. I retained a structural engineering firm. They said the shell looks ok with minimal honeycombing and all cracks are hairline.

For the rebar, they suggested doing one of two things;

1) adding hydro cement to all steps to maintain the correct rise/run and the rebar is covered.

Or

2) chipping away, drilling/cutting and then spraying with rustolium, one inch minimum, filling with hydro cement.

The PB stated they wouldn’t use hydro cement, only cut a centimeter or so in some places, and did spray it with spray paint. I escalated to the President of the company, he said it will be fine and does this all the time.

 

[ajw22]

So your PB is not going to cover the painted rebar with hydraulic cement and fill the voids?

Don't be surprised if you get rust stains on your plaster eventually. Eventually can be over 10 years later. Rusting rebar is like cancer and takes a long time until it becomes visible.

 

[TXDogKindness]

So your PB is not going to cover the painted rebar with hydraulic cement and fill the voids?

Don't be surprised if you get rust stains on your plaster eventually. Eventually can be over 10 years later. Rusting rebar is like cancer and takes a long time until it becomes visible.

That’s correct.

It is already rusting, you can kind of see it in the first picture.

Not sure what to do. Even thought about hiring a different company to fix it before plaster.

 

[Bperry]

That’s correct.

It is already rusting, you can kind of see it in the first picture.

Not sure what to do. Even thought about hiring a different company to fix it before plaster.

Go to Home Depot and get a bag of hydraulic cement and do it yourself. Costs about $16 for a bag. Then send him a bill for $250.

Or just say one of the subs must have come by and did it cause you have no idea who did.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

I have seen option #2 done with no problems occurring in the future if done correctly.