Ready to SLAM!

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Oh I could see it. Looks like the same algae I have been getting. Water is looking better. Always had "clear" water and never had "green" algae. Should say always had clear except for the mustard algae problem. Been down in deep end scoping out with goggles and determined that's what it was. Have had it for a very long time with no success getting rid of it. BUT my CYA was 160! So no wonder chlorine was doing nothing. Pool store which uses Bioguard products told me I was ok up to 200! I even personally called their lab about the CYA after reading and learning about it. They also said it was ok to 200! I told them they were nuts and asked them where they came up with this answer. They told me that there was a study out of Florida somewhere that determined this. When I explained my situation of having this MA for such a long time and exhausted all their options and MY money, they were at a loss on what to do with my situation.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
They sure love to lie and keep you spending. Of course their senior technical people fully understand the FC-CYA relationship. It's only 40 year-old science. But it's not in their interest to hand the info down to their low-level support people. "Keep those pools turning green, Boys, if you like your bonuses!"
 
Update: tested FC@930am Aug 1st- 31 so it went up from SWG. Still saw algae in seams of deep end so brushed again. Will test again this eve.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Last night FC-26....bumped back to 28. This morning FC was steady at 28 but had SWG running all night. Still seeing algae in seams but slowly improving. Changed direction of water flow with returns hoping for some better circulation.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Glad to hear the algae dirt is getting less and things seem to be going in the right direction! SWEET!

I use ping pong balls to help me see my water movement. A leaf would work but the balls are fun for the cats to watch LOL

:kim:
 
Just wondering now how long you are able to keep the chlorine at such high levels before any type of damage would start to the equipment or liner. I am on my 3rd day of SLAMing now.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
The CYA acts as a buffer for you FC to protect the liner and equipment.

Just to ease your mind-the recommendations here at TFP are all science based as well as tested on THOUSANDS of pools. There are many articles written to show the science. You can do a search for "chem geek" to find them.

I hope your SLAM goes fast and your pool starts looking like a jewel!

:kim:
 

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Pool is starting to look better but not perfect just yet. Maybe someone can shed some light on what may be going on in the water. When I first started the SLAM, I noticed the chlorine levels did not change a whole lot. Maybe down 1 or 2 ppm but then I had one day where it dropped to 19 and then it held again at 29 for a day and then this morning again it dropped to 19. This is my first time SLAMing so I don't want to seem naive, but I thought it might have been more consistent with the chlorine loss or is that a normal thing? Just seemed odd that one day I lose only a few ppm and then another day I am losing almost 10. And I know the sun can play a factor as well but both times it dropped to 19, it was at night cause I was checking levels before I went to bed.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
It's normal. Same with CC, you would expect it to go down over time, but sometimes they jump up. You are right, the sun also plays a part.

You should turn off your SWG for the duration of your SLAM, btw.
 
Have been told 2 different ways now on whether or not to use the SWG during SLAM. Had a post earlier when I first started that it was ok to use it as a supplemental source. [emoji848]


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Have been told 2 different ways now on whether or not to use the SWG during SLAM. Had a post earlier when I first started that it was ok to use it as a supplemental source.
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That happens from time-to-time. In essence, SWGs simply aren't designed to maintain the elevated FC levels required for a SLAM, so often times we recommend users simply turn them off to give the SWG a break. Some people also get confused when trying to adjust FC levels using both SWG and bleach simultaneously. But some owners will leave theirs on, or at least at certain times. A good example would be someone who works all day and can't add bleach during the day. They might manually dose with bleach in the morning, then let the SWG "try" to hold some FC until they get back. Again, it probably won't keep-up with the SLAM level, but it's better than nothing.
 
You know what, I don't know where I got that from. Just re-read the SLAM article and it doesn't mention anything about turning it off. Needsajet is right, continue on.

The SWG, tablet dispenser, injection pump, or Liquidator can be very helpful in the follow up stages to maintain FC at shock level, but for the initial couple of chlorine applications, you need to use another chlorine source.
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You do need to turn it off when you are ready to try the OCLT though :)
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. My only problem with the OCLT is going to be the same problem I had before I started SLAM and that is that I was able to pass the OCLT numerous times and the algae was still visible but was not eating up the chlorine. So Once the water clears, I may be in the same boat and pass the OCLT even though algae may still be present even though I may not be able to see it. And before anyone asks lol, it is mustard algae. All the traits of the stuff are there. Have read a lot on it and watched it come and go. So once it looks like it is gone and I pass the OCLT, I will shock to mustard level for 24 hrs and cross my fingers.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
Abaker6468 said:
Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. My only problem with the OCLT is going to be the same problem I had before I started SLAM and that is that I was able to pass the OCLT numerous times and the algae was still visible but was not eating up the chlorine. So Once the water clears, I may be in the same boat and pass the OCLT even though algae may still be present even though I may not be able to see it. And before anyone asks lol, it is mustard algae. All the traits of the stuff are there. Have read a lot on it and watched it come and go. So once it looks like it is gone and I pass the OCLT, I will shock to mustard level for 24 hrs and cross my fingers.


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
Click to expand...

Honestly I thought my problem a few years back was mustard algae too. I know better now. On the OCLT......brush all pool surfaces before you take your initial reading. Seriously. Algae develops a biofilm and brushing often agitates that. Look for hiding places. I've found it hiding behind light fixtures, behind return face plates, behind skimmer face plates.....etc.

I don't think yours is different......I just had to learn a different approach. I had to become more diligent.....as I also went to MA shock level after SLAM and had algae return. In my case I evaluated my own procedures and processes and determined operator error.
 
Just another quick question . When do I do the OCLT- before or after I raise the FC to Mustard level? Hope that if not a dumb question, I just want to make sure I get it right


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 
That IS a good question! It really does not matter so long as you allow the FC to mix in good after you add it for the test. Of course you will use more regents if you do the OCLT when you have it a Mustard level.

:kim:
 
Update: been checking FC 3 times a day. Morning, evening, and before bed. Been maintaining at 28-29 and only had a few circumstances where the FC dropped to 19 overnight. Current situation was last night before bed FC was adjusted to 28 as per chart and CYA of 70. This morning FC was at 26 but SWG was running as well. Adjusted to 28-29 before work. Pool has been improving each day until this morning algae was appearing in the seams again and in places I have not seen before. Any ideas on what's going on? CYA was checked numerous times by 2 parties to make sure I had it right before starting SLAM. At a loss and very frustrated at the moment. Need some reassurance cause I am [emoji35]


17,200 in ground pool, DE filter,3/4 hp pump, solar heater, SWG (Hayward Salt and Swim 3C). 1988 Hot Springs Highlife-K Hot Tub (415 gal.)
 

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