Re-Plumb salt water generator

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C

Ccorbin28

Active member
May 13, 2025
28
Bakersfield
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-16 Plus
IMG_2498.jpg
This is the image of my current Jandy Salt System, I am replacing it with the CircuPool RJ-60+ from your guys suggestions, I'll have to redo the unions to thread in the new salt generator.
from my understanding the spacing is the same with both salt generators, if i cut off the old unions and glue on the new provided unions my spacing will be short as ill cut the original male section of pipe.

so is there a way to get the old unions off without cutting the pipe? or should I cut the pipe and use an adaptor to get that couple inches of pipe I suspect ill be short?
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Measure the distance between the diverter valve on the right and the fitting on the far left. You need about 20" for the flow switch and cell.
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Yes I have 24” but my question is once I cut out these unions I will be short 2”. Is there something I can plumb in like a female female to get a section of male pipe out there to glue the union provided to the cell?
 
It appears you have 2" pipe.
If that is correct, you can add a 2.5" coupler to the Jandy valve and then a 2.5" to 2" reducer to the 2.5" coupler.
 
You should cut beyond the existing unions. From the left (existing coupler) to right (valve), you'll install the first union, the cell, a section of 2" pipe, then the flow switch. Your first cut will be 1.75" from the existing coupling. This will give you about 22" to work with to plumb in the cell and flow switch. Make sense?

Note, when you install the unions, don't forget to slide the nuts over the top. Clean old paint off existing pipe. You can use sand paper or scotch brite. A bit of acetone works to clean the surface.
 
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You’ll need to put some more pipe on with pvc couplers. The coupler is the ‘female to female’ part as you referred to it. The coupler takes up a minimum amount of space too so youll have to think about the dimensions when you plan it out.

You may find it easiest to redo the whole horizontal stretch including a new elbow and connect to the vertical pipe below the elbow
 
trivetman said:
You’ll need to put some more pipe on with pvc couplers. The coupler is the ‘female to female’ part as you referred to it. The coupler takes up a minimum amount of space too so youll have to think about the dimensions when you plan it out.

You may find it easiest to redo the whole horizontal stretch including a new elbow and connect to the vertical pipe below the elbow
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That makes sense to cut below the 90 going down after the cell not to the valve side?
Add a coupling then pipe then 90 then pipe going upwards to the dimensions needed?
 

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Ccorbin28 said:
That makes sense to cut below the 90 going down after the cell not to the valve side?
Add a coupling then pipe then 90 then pipe going upwards to the dimensions needed?
Click to expand...
Why would you cut the elbow out when you have plenty of room on the existing horizontal?
 
If you have plenty of horizontal room you might not need/want to replace the elbow. Depends both on how much space you have to work with and how much ‘give’ the pvc has so you can get the coupler into place. If there’s not a lot of give, a change of direction can help, i.e. redoing the elbow.

But if you have plenty of horizontal room and the old piping has some flex to it, do it the way Rancho suggested
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
You should cut beyond the existing unions. From the left (existing coupler) to right (valve), you'll install the first union, the cell, a section of 2" pipe, then the flow switch. Your first cut will be 1.75" from the existing coupling. This will give you about 22" to work with to plumb in the cell and flow switch. Make sense?

Note, when you install the unions, don't forget to slide the nuts over the top. Clean old paint off existing pipe. You can use sand paper or scotch brite. A bit of acetone works to clean the surface.
Click to expand...
No what are saying makes way more sense now that I’m sitting down thinking about it.
The only question is 1.75” from the existing coupling. The union furthest away from the valve? 1.75” before the union? Not cut flush with the union?
 
If you cut flush, you'll have nothing to slip the into the union. You need that length of PVC to slip into the Union socket

When you do your measurements, make sure you include the length of the sockets of the connections. The sockets are generally 1 3/8 in to 1.5 in. The extra quarter inch gives you a little play. Make sure your cuts are straight.
 
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You'll need a small section of 2-in PVC to make the connection between the second SWG union and the flow switch. You may be able to use some of the scrap you cut off, but I would have a foot or so on hand just in case. Your section won't be this long, but you get the idea.

1000007908.png
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
You'll need a small section of 2-in PVC to make the connection between the second SWG union and the flow switch. You may be able to use some of the scrap you cut off, but I would have a foot or so on hand just in case. Your section won't be this long, but you get the idea.

View attachment 648086
Click to expand...
That’s a perfect example I have the plumbing squared away in my mind.

I’m going to tackle the plumbing after work tomorrow straight away now that I understand.

But I’d like to square away the electrical tonight.

So the wiring from my vs Jandy pump runs in this conduit to the old controller, so I’ll connect the provided wiring to the wiring in the conduit after I disconnect it from the old controller?
 

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