perfect! my only concern is the Warranty is that still going to be valid if i remove their factory connection?
Re-Plumb salt water generator
- Thread starter Ccorbin28
- Start date
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,537
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You could install a junction box under the CP control panel.. Run the conduit to the junction box and make the connections inside.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,537
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I still don't understand why the SWG is connected directly to the pump and how scheduling is achieved. Will the connection to the pump send 230 volts to the RJ+ control center and only receive power when the VS pump is activated?
yes I believe that is exactly how it is set up currently, the pump turns on and 2-3mins later the control center is powered, when the pump is off i have no power to the control center. Should it be set up a different way? Now may be the time to make any changes
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,537
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That's exactly the way it should be set up. I didn't know the Jandy pump had that capability. That makes the connection easier. You do not want the SWG powered on when the pump is off and there is no flow.
okay great so now the question is connect old wiring directly to CircuPool Control module or Junction box below to make my splice. I can handle that, Thank you guys so much!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,400
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Lots of great tips so far. Basing this on some of those and the biggest question is how much room you have in your horizontal.
Based on your original photo, with the yellow in my diagram being your existing salt cell and pipe, how much room do you have? If you are at roughly 20, you should be okay.
You'll want to cut the yellow near the blue diverter, but leave enough room for your Tee fitting (the flow sensor that came with the RJ.). 2 inches should be minimum.
You'll want to cut the yellow near the red elbow, but leave enough room for your union - including sliding the rotating ring back. I'd say about 2.5 inches.
Then you can plug in your RJ. as such....
If you don't think you have enough room, you can put the flow switch before (below) the red elbow.
Based on your original photo, with the yellow in my diagram being your existing salt cell and pipe, how much room do you have? If you are at roughly 20, you should be okay.
You'll want to cut the yellow near the blue diverter, but leave enough room for your Tee fitting (the flow sensor that came with the RJ.). 2 inches should be minimum.
You'll want to cut the yellow near the red elbow, but leave enough room for your union - including sliding the rotating ring back. I'd say about 2.5 inches.
Then you can plug in your RJ. as such....
If you don't think you have enough room, you can put the flow switch before (below) the red elbow.
Attachments
That is an amazing illustration I really appreciate it, this will help my brain lol. thank you!
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,537
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Make sure you install the flow switch after the SWG on the horizontal...
From the CircuPool RJ Manual:
From the CircuPool RJ Manual:
Right so closest to the blue Tee which is actually my Valve?
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,537
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus