Re-plaster chemical balancing

Nov 26, 2013
118
Elkridge, MD
So I got my pool replastered today, and the pool company told me how to cure it, what chemicals to add and when, etc, but I figured since I've been using the TFP method for the last several years, I'd double-check the process. Below is the process he laid out for me:

1. Once filled up, add muriatic acid to lower the pH to cure the plaster, along with 2x daily brushings (4 gallons acid per 10,000 gallons of water, so i added 12.5 gallons). I tested the water before adding anything and my TA was between 30 and 40, and my pH was actually over the 8.2 on my test kit.
2. After the week of curing/brushing, add pH increaser to get it back to ~7.0 pH. Based on the Pool math calculator, my pH should be at 4.0 now (I assume it will rise over the next week as it cures?). I planned on getting "pH increaser" from Wal-Mart or the pool store, let me know if i should use an alternative instead
3. He said to mix the pH increaser with water in a bucket and add it to the pool, it should raise the pH to 7.0 slowly over a few days.
4. Once it's at 7.0, I can turn the pump on and balance my chemicals. No salt (for the SWG) for 30 days, use chlorine tablets or liquid chlorine in the meantime. Should I raise it to shock levels first, then lower the chlorine, or will it be fine since it was newly plastered and acidified?
5. I assume I should get my CH, TA, and CYA up at this point in time? Any particular order?

He also said not to use the heater for a month as it could 'bake' the plaster that's brushed off to the pipes in the heater...is that valid? Any options for getting the pool to swim temps without the heater?

Any additions or corrections to his instructions would be helpful. I want to make sure I don't have a crazy summer trying to keep things balanced or mess up the plaster and equipment by adding the wrong stuff at the wrong times.
 
Thanks, that is what I was looking for. So quick follow-up questions:
1. chlorine - tablets in the skimmers good enough without the SWG, or should I be adding liquid chlorine too? What level FC should I be aiming for?
2. TA - should I try to get this in level as soon as I bring the pH back up and start up the equipment?
3. CH - should this also be leveled back out when equipment is started up (350-450 according to PoolMath)?
4. It says the pH will continue to rise and I should keep adding acid through the season to keep it below 7.8, but are there other chemical levels that i should expect to see fluctuating a lot this summer?
 
The links I am going to share are for when your PB turns the pool over to you okay?

This is a set of links I put together for new owners. It is a LOT of info so take it slow and ask lots of questions.

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

You also need a good test kit. The one like is in my siggy below.

Kim:kim:
 
Thanks Kim, I've actually been doing the TFP method for 3 years now since I bought my house with the pool, and I have the TF Test kit. So my problem is reconciling what i'm used to doing with what to expect now that it's replastered. And the pool builder seemed very "with it" the whole time leading up to now, but it's like the pool is replastered, and now they're no where to be seen. He gave me a schedule (verbally) to follow for the next 2 weeks which I put in my original post, but since they're not helping me do anything or making sure it's done right, I'm making sure the experts here agree.

So for instance, since I can't use salt and the SWG for a month, and I'm going to be using chlorine tablets for now, I assume I should aim for the "bleach" recommended levels to start, not the higher SWG levels. Correct?

Am I making sure my TA/CH is at the "bleach" recommended levels when I raise my pH back up? Or should I wait to add calcium/baking soda for a month as well? The link pooldv posted regarding re-plaster pool startups only mentions the CYA levels.

I'm supposed to get the pH back up starting tomorrow, so I just want to make sure I don't add things I'm not supposed to, or make sure I add things in the right order to make sure I don't over-compensate and get anything too high.
 
Yes, wait at least 21 days to add salt. Yes, use the bleach CYA levels for now. Bring TA to 60. And CH anywhere from 250 to 350. And keep PH at 7.6 to 7.8. Where are you now?
 
Today is my day to start raising the pH. Current level is below the readable measure. TA was at 0 (adding the chemicals to the test kit produced a red color water immediately).

Before adding the initial acid, I tested and TA was at 30, pH was at 8.4. I added 12.5 gallons of acid, so I entered those numbers into PoolMath and it should have lowered the pH to ~4.0, give or take 1.0.

So I'm not sure how much "pH Plus" I need to add by weight (I have Sodium Carbonate) to get the pH into readable levels. According to PoolMath, with TA at 0 now, assuming pH is below 4.0, and 33,000 gallons, I'm supposed to add 44 lbs. I don't want to add all that at once just in case the pH has risen over the last week. So question is, should I start small (5lbs) or do more like 20lbs (halfway), let it mix and then test and add more if needed? Also, I assume I shouldn't mess with TA until I get the pH back to 7.0?
 
Actually, you should raise ta first with baking soda. Add enough to raise TA to 50-60, run the pump for a few hours and aerate if you can until pH shows up.
 
Actually, you should raise ta first with baking soda. Add enough to raise TA to 50-60, run the pump for a few hours and aerate if you can until pH shows up.

I was told not to turn the system on until the pH was above 7.0. Since I can't bypass my heater, turning the system on now would corrode the pipes. Seems lower TA means less pH plus needed to get it back to 7, which is why i was thinking ignore TA until the pH is in normal range, then get TA stable to prevent the pH from swinging too much.
 

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