Raypak temp sensor 3-wire green Replacement DIY

[saxon11]

Hi - our 3 year old pool just got opened up by pool company last week, heat was on, all was good. A day later, no heat (even though app showed running). They came back, replaced a piece they called "Raypak temp sensor 3-wire green", and got it heating again. Day later, its out again. Is this something i can replace myself? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJ1GZXKS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title. I took off the covers and looks like pretty simple install. Suggestions?

 

[JamesW]

Remote No Demand means that the external controller is not calling for heat.

What external controller do you have?

How is it connected?

 

[saxon11]

Pentair see attached

 

[JamesW]

Show the remote connections in the heater and automation box.

 

[JamesW]

Is the heater Propane or Natural Gas?

 

[JamesW]

https://s3.amazonaws.com/AWSProd/sites/raypakcom/documents/6500.00.pdf

https://s3.amazonaws.com/AWSProd/sites/raypakcom/documents/241236.pdf

P-R268A-EP-C

https://s3.amazonaws.com/AWSProd/sites/raypakcom/documents/6000.75.pdf

Digital – Raypak

Raypak Pool & Spa, Residential and Commercial Hydronic Products -

www.raypak.com

 

[saxon11]

Natural gas and there is some in the tank

 

[JamesW]

Natural gas and there is some in the tank

Natural gas or propane?

Natural gas does not come in a tank.

Heater model number?

Automation Model Number?

 

[1poolman1]

Hi - our 3 year old pool just got opened up by pool company last week, heat was on, all was good. A day later, no heat (even though app showed running). They came back, replaced a piece they called "Raypak temp sensor 3-wire green", and got it heating again. Day later, its out again. Is this something i can replace myself? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJ1GZXKS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title. I took off the covers and looks like pretty simple install. Suggestions?

Yes, that temp sensor is relatively easy to replace. You have to remove the door, open the control panel, remove the top panel at the inlet/outlet header and you will have access to everything.
What is the temperature set on the heater? It needs to be 104. If it is set lower, regardless of what the automation is set, the heater will still only heat to the setting in its control. If the automation is set to 85 and the heater to 75, when the water temp hits 75 the "no demand" message pops up.
You have to get the heater out of "remote" mode to see and change the temperature setting.
Press the up and down buttons together for 5 seconds and it will go back to manual control, with the pump running, select pool, then spa and set the temp to 104.

The hard part in this troubleshooting will be determining which wire the automation is connected to on the remote-interface harness. If it is to the blue and the orange with black stripe it is to the spa side of the control. If to the blue and black with orange strip, it is to the pool side. It doesn't matter as long as the next step is followed.

If the wire is connected to the pool side, close the panel, turn the pump, then heater on, select pool mode, press the up and down arrow until remote is displayed and you will know that, if the automation is working, and the heater is functioning properly, it should work.

If the wiring is attached to the spa circuit, just select the spa when you turn it on and then go to remote.
If the wrong mode at the heater is selected, you will get a "no demand" message regardless of what the automation reads out.

 

[saxon11]

Now says rollout SW open

 

[1poolman1]

Now says rollout SW open

That means that either flame got out of the combustion chamber into the front of the heater. Its usually not actually a switch, but a fuse that pops and needs to be replaced if that happens.
Open the door, look on the lower left of the cabinet. Attached to the wall is one of these:

You can test it with a meter. Remove the wires and check for continuity across the terminals. If you have continuity, make sure the wires to the part were not damaged, or disconnected at the board when the heater was reassembled when a repair was made. If all is good, it sounds like your board is going bad.

On a rare occasion, only once, I have seen an actual switch in place of that thermal fuse. It will look something like this and just needs the button pushed in to reset:

You need to find out why flame is getting out of the chamber. If the heater wasn't running when this code popped up, check the wiring. If good it sounds like the board is going bad. Also, check the back of the control board. Lizards and large insects can get killed by the voltage at the board, or just get stuck and short out some of the wiring. Removing them sometimes clears the problem.