Raypak 336 n. 3yrs old. Had to replace pressure valve spring ( completely shot) Though that would fix my 2 limit fault error but it did not. Tech said my pressure is low ( always been btw 12 -18lbs if gauge is correct) forever, never had a problem before. So whats my next step on a 3 yr old heater kept inside my pool house (shed)
Raypak problems
- Thread starter Rospool
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,344
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
christo
0
i have a similar problem. raypak 406A natural gas runs for a while than throws hi limit 2 error and won't restart. first pool tech said not enough gas pressure. but it worked fine for years.
2nd pool tech said hi limit sensor was giving inconsistent readings. he didn't have one. he pointed to it on the front - easy to change so i'll do it myself. but now i see there are 2 - one in the manifold and the other does not look to be in the same place he pointed to.
so i'm a little confused.
2nd pool tech said hi limit sensor was giving inconsistent readings. he didn't have one. he pointed to it on the front - easy to change so i'll do it myself. but now i see there are 2 - one in the manifold and the other does not look to be in the same place he pointed to.
so i'm a little confused.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,344
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Manual is here --> http://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=c404f1c5-ac50-4209-9457-56246d010b20
Parts 2C & 3C on page 48.
See page 33...
High Limits
The heater is equipped with two high limits.
On polymer headers both are automatic and are located in
the inlet/outlet header. Both are set at 135°F (57°C).
On ASME brass header both are located on the inlet/outlet
header. HL1 is manual reset and set to open at 160°F
(71°C). HL2 is automatic and set to open at 135°F (57°C).
christo
0
thanks.
not convinced pool tech even test the hi limit switches.
do my symptoms indicate a failed sensor?
is there a way to test it before i replace?
not convinced pool tech even test the hi limit switches.
do my symptoms indicate a failed sensor?
is there a way to test it before i replace?
christo
0
and how come the diagram on 47 for polymer header prior to 10/2019 shows both as 1C?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,344
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
On polymer headers both are automatic and are located in
the inlet/outlet header. Both are set at 135°F (57°C).
christo
0
both hi limit sensors show 2k ohm.
new replacement shows 3k ohm.
haven't chagned anything yet.
but still getting hi limit 2 followed by no pilot sensed. intermittently. it seems some days it hits the limit at 87 on the way to 96. sometimes it gets all the way to set point and cycles on as needed to maintain set point.
i'm. perplexed.
new replacement shows 3k ohm.
haven't chagned anything yet.
but still getting hi limit 2 followed by no pilot sensed. intermittently. it seems some days it hits the limit at 87 on the way to 96. sometimes it gets all the way to set point and cycles on as needed to maintain set point.
i'm. perplexed.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,344
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Look for an intermittent low flow problem instead of a sensor problem.
christo
0
flow is steady. what would cause an intermittent flow? when i turn the pentair variable speed pump down i get sw open, turn it back up and it goes away.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,344
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
A clogging filter can cause intermittent flow. You look at your filter PSI when the heater shuts down?
Flo can be good enough for the heater pressure switch to turn it on but not good enough to keep it from overheating.
What pump rpm are you running? Increase it a few hundred and see if the heater operates more reliably.
Flo can be good enough for the heater pressure switch to turn it on but not good enough to keep it from overheating.
What pump rpm are you running? Increase it a few hundred and see if the heater operates more reliably.
christo
0
clean de filter (running fiber) @2750 rpm is ~10psi.
its at 14 psi right now. but i can start the heater and it runs until hi limit 2 fault. everytime. if i don't turn it off sometimes it will restart after it "cools off".
most of the time i take what heat i can get and turn it off to save the repeated spark failures.
water flow to returns is good. psi does not go up before hi limit 2 fault.
its at 14 psi right now. but i can start the heater and it runs until hi limit 2 fault. everytime. if i don't turn it off sometimes it will restart after it "cools off".
most of the time i take what heat i can get and turn it off to save the repeated spark failures.
water flow to returns is good. psi does not go up before hi limit 2 fault.
christo
0
made any progress?
i replaced my unitherm governor
is this what you mean by "pressure valve spring"?
or do you meant these springs?
mine was severely corroded after just 2+ years of use.
and the heater now starts and runs but shuts off before set point with "hi limit 2" error followed by "no pilot sensed" after the hi limit resets.
i replaced the ignitor as well as i did not know how to see the error history and the hi limit fault.
i bought a new hi limit sensor but have not changed it yet as both the new and old both show resistance at rest.
Did anyone figure this out? I have had similar issues for last two weeks. Intermittent and high limit 2 at 80 degrees (yesterday) or at 102 degrees (today) or anywhere in between. Also went 3 straight good days with no fault. Always starts up after pressing mode twice. New gas valve and main board.