Thanks for the inputs. Originally I had a little over 20 CYA and I couldn’t get extinction of the black dot. Now that I’m headed to 45 I can. I won’t be able to get salt until I get the TFP reagents. I’ll check on the OCLT but a few days ago it went from 8ppm to zero 9 hours later. That is when I discovered the CYA was zero. This was with the tub open. It’s snowing now and 27 outside. A lot of evaporation. I didn’t know I could link Pool Math. Thanks again. We just got out of the pool. Water felt excellent with the salt, and very clear. I left the Saltron on at 5 hours. I’ll check everything in the morning. Everything is from the TP-Pro except salt and Borate.
Rapid decrease in CF and Cloudy with SWG and UV light (Sundance)
- Thread starter DougJack
- Start date
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,807
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
CYA a little over 20 is read as 30.
If you're headed to CYA 45, that is read as 50.
Use the FC/CYA Levels to dose FC according to your CYA.
Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test asap - with the SWG off.
You could have a nascent algae bloom and/or unsanitary water.
To link PoolMath to your forum account, use the same email and password to log into PoolMath as you use for your forum account. Then click the gear icon in PoolMath and scroll down to Sharing - select the Link from TFP user profile.
If you're headed to CYA 45, that is read as 50.
Use the FC/CYA Levels to dose FC according to your CYA.
Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test asap - with the SWG off.
You could have a nascent algae bloom and/or unsanitary water.
To link PoolMath to your forum account, use the same email and password to log into PoolMath as you use for your forum account. Then click the gear icon in PoolMath and scroll down to Sharing - select the Link from TFP user profile.
Last night at 11:22 my FC was 4.0. I left the SWG on for 5 hours. This morning the FC was 2.0. and CC was 0.5 This morning I added.8 ounces of Dichlor and after running jets for 10 minutes the FC was 9.5, CC was 1.0, and CYA was 40. I don't know what you would recommend on the OCLT. The UV light is on when the filter is running. I need to run the filter continuously because of freezing temps. It isn't projected to be above freezing for the next 10 days. I can't independently control the UV. I turned off the SWG. I'm going to measure the FC and CC again after an hour.
I did make the link.
The water remains clear, but this morning after running the jets there was foam for the first time. Within 30 sec after turning off the jets it was almost all gone. - Doug
I did make the link.
The water remains clear, but this morning after running the jets there was foam for the first time. Within 30 sec after turning off the jets it was almost all gone. - Doug
I did measure again after 1 hour FC 8 CC 1 - actually the CC is closer to .5, just over
JoeSelf
Gold Supporter
Your tub is fully foamed. I only have the UV run for 8 hrs starting at 12 midnight. Its not as cold here but I don't worry about the tub freezing with power. There are two cycles where the big pumps run at 12 & 12. This exchanges the water in the tubing. I cant imagine the water freezing in the tubing while you still have power. Pumps 1 & 2 give off some heat when they run and will heat up the air in the pump area.
We can get down to 30 below zero here. Apparently there have been problems. I understand what you are saying but would really need to measure to feel more comfortable. I don't know if your controls are the same as mine. There is a 1 and a 2, but I haven't found the difference between them. It seems like you have. Does only #1 turn on the UV?
I tried to get more info and find that Pump 1 only turns on the UV when in low speed mode. High speed and Pump #2 don't activate the UV. Pump #1 is the only one that has anything to do with filtration. Pump #2 only circulates water within the jets and doesn't go through the filtration path. I agree with you that just the pump running should keep the lines from freezing, but I'm not sure if it would still protect from a deep cold. Do you have an opinion on the minimum time that you would filter in a hot tub with 2 clean bathers for an hour a day?
JoeSelf
Gold Supporter
Pump 2 runs the foot well & the seat with all the jets on mine (Back left looking in from the panel). Pump 1 runs the rest.
The water button on the panel on mine runs the circ pump & there is a setting in the menu for time it runs in hours. That's where the UV / Ozone cycles are set and this runs the circ pump.
The water button on the panel on mine runs the circ pump & there is a setting in the menu for time it runs in hours. That's where the UV / Ozone cycles are set and this runs the circ pump.
I'll start out saying "I don't know - but". I think my Pump 1 and pump 2 is the same as yours on the control panel. When I go into programming mode however, it has 1 and 2 and I don't think they are the same thing. I can only set one start and stop time for each. I think, but I'm not certain that 1 at low speed (no jets) is the only one that uses filtration and is the only one that turns on the UV during filtration. 2 is just for the jet water exchange...but I'll dig in further.
I read the manual more closely and the programming isn't for pumps #1 and #2, but for what they call filter 1 and 2. Filter #1 can be set to start at any time from 0:00 am to 12:00 am (24 hour range), it can also be set to end after the start, but I think there is a 2 hour minimum run time. Filter #2 runs twice a day for 20 minutes each time and it only runs water through the jets and not the filtration, hence no UV or ozone. You can set those starting times. The UV and ozone source turn on when the low speed circulation mode is on. This is only during Filter #1 and turns off if you turn on jets. I'm looking at unplugging the UV lamp tomorrow so I can do the OCLT test.
I've decided to run the primary filter continuously because the temps can easily go below zero, and there have been pools that freeze here. So the consequence of doing that is the UV is on continuously and my FC drops by about 1ppm/hour. I decided to plug in the SWG and it is stabilizing at around 3.5 ppm and CC=0.
FC 3.5
CC 0
pH 7.8
TA 60
CH 150
Salt 2660 (electronic until reagents are delivered)
Water Temp 103F
Borates 55
my PoolMath is linked
The salt water is definitely softer - my wife's dad used to sell soft water systems - she recognized the difference right away - smile.
I added some make up water - probably 20 gallons. I also raised the pH via sodium carbonate. Things seem stable at the moment and with the CC at 0 I think it is safe. I am thinking that I need to get the UV on a timer.