Rain or bad SWG?

onemorekat

Member
Apr 1, 2016
16
Pinellas Park / Florida
In mid-Florida downpours of rain have been swamping our pool. I can understand that my pool gets out of balance, however I have not been able to have it stay in balance at all. My pool is cloudy and have my SWG running 24/7 because my SWG installer believes his equipment can't be faulty. I had brought my FC up to 15 and within a week it was a zero prior to the 24/7. I have it at 2.5 with it running constantly for a week. Is there something else I may be missing? Thank you!!! - I know my salt is high, it is slowly coming down to a better range...

FC​
2.5
FC 6​
CC​
0.5
TC​
3
pH​
8
PH 7.4-7.6​
TA​
90
TA 80 – 120​
CH​
350
CH 350-450​
CYA​
55
CYA 30-50​
Salt​
4000
3,000 ppm - 3,500 ppm​
 
Is the Aquapure showing any errors?

You can check the amperage going to the cell to verify that it is working correctly. See this thread.


When the Aquapure reads over 4,000 ppm salt, it will not work.

Are you using an independent salt test kit like the K-1766 to verify the salinity?

You can recalibrate the salinity reading if it's over 4,000 on the box but the actual salinity is lower.

Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times. The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds. Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen. The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading. When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.
 
Is the “Cell On” light on most of the time?

The cycle is 3 hours. The “Cell On” light should be on for about 3 hours at 100%. It should briefly go to “Cell Resting” and then it should show “Cell On” again and the “Cell Reversing” light should come on.

If you press the "Salinity" button, what is the reading?
 
My pool guy isn't keen on looking at a problem because the machine isn't sending out any error code. I just have low chlorine and a cloudy pool. The system is 8 months old. My installer said he talked to Jandy and he has a way to test it now that I've complained for weeks on end trying to get the pool swimmable. IMG_20200918_180054027_HDR.jpgIMG_20200918_180136336_HDR.jpgIMG_20200918_180102847_HDR.jpg
 
You have your SWG listed as the 40k model. The Truclear is a 35k model. The AquaPure 1400 is the 40k model.

It's important to list the actual model number of the equipment you're seeking help with so that you get the best information.

In any case, have you measured the amperage?

You can measure the volts and amps of the power supply going to the unit or coming from the unit going to the cell.

Note that there is a short ribbon cable going from the circuit board to the display. If you open the box, be careful not to put tension on the ribbon cable.
 
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Once you complete and confirm a full SLAM Process, you can do an Overnight Chlorine Gain Test. Test the FC after the sun goes down, run the SWCG overnight at a setting that will create X.X FC over X hours, test the FC the next morning for that X.X FC gain.
 
I use the TFP test kit for SWG and the salt tester....the results I had were weird as I hadn't changed anything in the pool. I all of sudden needed 30+ lbs of sodium bicarbonate and 15 lbs of stabilizer and I could not figure out why as I have been going along great for years. I went to the pool store and they verified the results, plus of course, I had no chlorine. I called my Jandy equipment installer and he came and tested the equipment - all good = producing chlorine. So he asked, "What has changed in the environment here?" We both looked about and he said, "Did you paint and seal your pool deck recently?" - I had! He advised me that it was most likely the reason for the chemical offset. The cement deck had not been painted or sealed ever and it's a 1985 pool...I thought I'd share in case anyone else ran into a similar situation. Thanks for this forum!
 
Not real sure what painting and/or sealing a concrete deck would have any effect on chlorine or CYA levels.
 
I all of sudden needed 30+ lbs of sodium bicarbonate and 15 lbs of stabilizer and I could not figure out why as I have been going along great for years.
Really can't see how the deck work could have caused so much problem.

If you pressure wash a lot of grit and grim and organic stuff off the deck and it gets in the pool, that can cause issues.

What actually got in the water from the work?
 
I have just discovered that the Jandy Tru Clear 11ku 35k does not keep adjustment settings for chlorine without an automated system. Has anyone discovered a way around this on any SWG? After starting every day, I have to manually adjust down to 60-70% so that my SWG does not over chlorinate - Every day...It seems a bit too much hands on for an automatic system. Any hints would be appreciated. Thank you!
 

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