Quick Stenner install question

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L

lvrpl

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LifeTime Supporter
Jun 18, 2015
159
Connecticut
I'm putting my Stenner in and was hoping for help with a fast question on where to tap in for the injection quill. In the picture below, the pipe with the red line is the main return line going from the heater to a Jandy valve (the valve splits between the spa jet returns and the pool returns - the right side that goes to the pool returns also has one "feature"return that comes up through the floor of the spa, so the spa still gets some return water when the Jandy is set to the right side).

Am I correct that I should tap in for the injection quill somewhere along the red line? Thanks for any help or input.
Stenner_tap_location - v01.jpg
 
Most are done in a fitting because the wall is a bit thicker there. So with that in mind I would tap into the the elbow at the top of the red line near the blue tank or the one near the rear of the booster pump or the one from the heater leading down to the booster pump. Nothing wrong with somewhere on the red line either just leave enough pipe before the jandy for a splice should you ever have to do a repair or replumb say at least 5 inches before the jandy.
 
I like the threaded outlet. Should you ever need to take it out for some reason you could just put a threaded plug in it. I put mine in the threaded drain plug of my chlorinator for this reason. Learned my lesson replumbing after moving from liquidator to stenner when I drilled straight into the pipe. Wasn't difficult to fix, just one more thing to do and couple more things to buy.
 
downtfish said:
I like the threaded outlet. Should you ever need to take it out for some reason you could just put a threaded plug in it. I put mine in the threaded drain plug of my chlorinator for this reason. Learned my lesson replumbing after moving from liquidator to stenner when I drilled straight into the pipe. Wasn't difficult to fix, just one more thing to do and couple more things to buy.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the thoughts. Although if I just drill and tap straight into the pipe, couldn't I still just put a plug or short bolt into the tapped hole if I want to remove the injection quill?
 
flyweed said:
you could..but a threaded outlet is "structurally" more sturdy, than a hole drilled through the wall of a piece of pvc Pipe. I have the "T" fitting as shown above on mine as well, and it works great.
Click to expand...

Hmm...ok, dumb question - how did you get the tee joint inserted? I'm thinking that once I cut out a part of the straight section, the rest of the pipe might be too rigid to slide in the tee on both sides. Did you use a union? Or is there another way?

I know this is a simple question but I've never inserted a tee before and know it can be tricky in some setups. Thanks for any pointers.
 
I'll add a plus one for installing the T fitting. Looks like you have plenty of wiggle room on the line with the red line. Worst case you could disconnect it from the heater.

Is that an inline chlorinator? Does it have a fitting you could use?
 
lvrpl said:
Hmm...ok, dumb question - how did you get the tee joint inserted? I'm thinking that once I cut out a part of the straight section, the rest of the pipe might be too rigid to slide in the tee on both sides. Did you use a union? Or is there another way?

I know this is a simple question but I've never inserted a tee before and know it can be tricky in some setups. Thanks for any pointers.
Click to expand...

It can be tricky....sometimes you can't tell how much wiggle room you actually have until the cut it made. That happend to me...thought there would be enough room but turned out much less than I anticipated.

What I had to do is get a telescoping coupler/union from Home Depot. Requires that you cut out about a 6" section of the pvc, glue one end of this type extender/union to one butt end of the cut out pvc section. Then glue your tee in the other butt end of the opened pvc section. Finally, coat other end of tee and the extender and extend the telescoping union into the tee. The amount you cut out of the existing PVC section has to be carefully measured so that the telescoping union gets fully extended when joined up with the Tee.

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CaptainCannonball said:
I'll add a plus one for installing the T fitting. Looks like you have plenty of wiggle room on the line with the red line. Worst case you could disconnect it from the heater.

Is that an inline chlorinator? Does it have a fitting you could use?
Click to expand...

It is an inline chlorinator (Frog brand)...I assume you're thinking I should just use the drain fitting on that? Any idea if those threads would match the injection quill on the Frog brand? And would that be a superior way to plumb in the injection quill (versus drilling and tapping the pipe)?

One other question on the Stenner - the tube fittings come from the factory in an orientation going off the left side of the pump. Is it possible to rotate the head so that those tubes come directly off the center or right side?

Thanks again for all the help.
 
It is a bad idea to inject liquid chlorine into an existing solid chlorine feeder. Mixing types of chlorine can be hazardous, even explosive. While you may know not to have solid chlorine in the feeder when injecting liquid through it family members or future owners of the house may not.
 
tim5055 said:
It is a bad idea to inject liquid chlorine into an existing solid chlorine feeder. Mixing types of chlorine can be hazardous, even explosive. While you may know not to have solid chlorine in the feeder when injecting liquid through it family members or future owners of the house may not.
Click to expand...

Ah, ok, great advice, thanks. I'll put the injector directly into the line. I'm starting to feel a little hopeful that I might have enough play in the pipe to put a t-fitting in after wiggling it around a bit. Or I may just drill and tap into the pipe directly with the knowledge that I can always put the tee in that same spot later if desired.

Any insight into whether I can turn the orientation of the pump head to have the tube outlets in the center or on the right side?

Thanks again for all the help.
 
Using your chlorinator as the insertion point will pose no risk if you simply glue the chlorinator cap on so as to permanently keep anyone from being able to place chlorine pucks into it. Loads easier than going the tap or Tee method to accomplish the insertion point, though I am not at all trying to discourage you from doing either of these to configure the insertion point.
 
There is nothing wrong with drilling and tapping into your pvc, but also there isn't really any advantage to do so over installing a slip T with a 1/2"npt if you have the space. Most any hardware store will have it for $2-3 plus the price of primer and glue. The cost of just a tap would be more in parts and if you are the kind of guy who has a tap and die set then you probably have primer and glue anyway meaning it's just your time. I'm not a mechanical genius, but cutting and gluing pvc versus drilling and tapping would be about a wash time wise. With the T fitting, in my opinion, you have a more structurally sound connection, less obstruction and it doesn't look hackish.

To to be clear, I was not suggesting you use trichlor pucks and feed the liquid chlorine into your feeder at the same time, it was just a thought to use an existing threaded port from an abandoned chlorination device. I had the idea to use my drain on my pump for the injection point, but decided on this: image.jpg
 
CaptainCannonball said:
There is nothing wrong with drilling and tapping into your pvc, but also there isn't really any advantage to do so over installing a slip T with a 1/2"npt if you have the space. Most any hardware store will have it for $2-3 plus the price of primer and glue. The cost of just a tap would be more in parts and if you are the kind of guy who has a tap and die set then you probably have primer and glue anyway meaning it's just your time. I'm not a mechanical genius, but cutting and gluing pvc versus drilling and tapping would be about a wash time wise. With the T fitting, in my opinion, you have a more structurally sound connection, less obstruction and it doesn't look hackish.

To to be clear, I was not suggesting you use trichlor pucks and feed the liquid chlorine into your feeder at the same time, it was just a thought to use an existing threaded port from an abandoned chlorination device. I had the idea to use my drain on my pump for the injection point, but decided on this:
Click to expand...

Makes sense. i guess I'm just wondering if I'll have enough wiggle room in the pipe after cutting it to get the tee fitting on...I'd hate to cut it out and then not be able to slide the tee in. I agree that the tee is a better connection but the tapped hole will avoid that risk. But I'm thinking I'll probably have enough play to get the tee in, at least I hope...
 
When I installed my coupling I got my extra "slack" from disconnecting the connection to the heater. If you do it be sure to not lose the black o ring or you will develop a leak. Took me about 10 minutes to patch it in. I now have a SWG but I still plan to use the Stenner during cooler months when I have to haul less bleach to the tank. When not in use I just insert a threaded plug.
 
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