PVC Repair or Flex Seal (or other) to Deal with Small Drip?

[EuphoriaOwner]

I changed out our 22 year-old Clean and Clear Plus 520 cartridge filter housing a few weeks ago. I had to really fight to get the old housing inlet and outlet o-rings to release from the 2" inch plumbing. I did my best to stabilize the plumbing while I used a mallet on the old filter housing. I now have a very small drip from one of the pvc joints (a coupler) on the plumbing that exits the filter. The leak barely drips on low speed and drips once every 5 seconds on high speed.

I am competent at pvc repair, but I am wondering if I don't try something simpler before doing all of the cutting and gluing required to replace the dripping coupler. My mom used some flex seal on a pvc joint leak on her pool plumbing. She said the fix has held for 6 months thus far. I know that minerals in the water have sealed up other small drips on other plumbing situations at my house (a small drip from a hose bib, for instance).

What are the thoughts here on trying some sort of surface fix for a leak this small?

 

[Texas Splash]

A leak after the filter is the pressure side and any patch attempts on the external portion of the pipe are likely to fail. How about posting some pics of the leaking area and equipment pad so we can see what it all looks like?

 

[EuphoriaOwner]

Getting dark here now. I will get some pics in the morning and get them posted. Thanks.

 

[EuphoriaOwner]

Here are the pics. Looking at the third picture on the right, the drip is coming from the very small gap on the right side of the 45-degree fitting and the coupler directly to the right of the 45-degree.

The riser to the left of the 45-degree was in use with my original filter. That filter had some drip line running from the valve on top of the housing to the riser. My new filter did not have the same valve on top. Did Pentair do away with this set-up? Was it some sort of pressure release back-up?

If I go with a pvc repair, I was going to cut just to the left of the riser to eliminate that. Next, I would cut as close as possible to right side of the coupling that is leaking, then I should have enough pipe left to glue on another coupler and rebuild my way back to the left.

 

[Texas Splash]

I was going to cut just to the left of the riser to eliminate that. Next, I would cut as close as possible to right side of the coupling that is leaking, then I should have enough pipe left to glue on another coupler and rebuild my way back to the left.

That would be my choice as well.

 

[EuphoriaOwner]

Ok. So you recommend cutting and gluing instead of trying to somehow seal that tiny crack between the 45 and the coupler.

 

[Texas Splash]

So you recommend cutting and gluing instead of trying to somehow seal that tiny crack between the 45 and the coupler.

I do. Repairs on the pressure side are usually questionable to remain in place. Of course since you may have to cut anyways, there's nothing stopping you from trying an epoxy or something. If it doesn't work you'll just cut it out anyways.

 

[Newdude]

My concern is that a patch will work. It'll work exactly as long as you're around to catch it. The moment that you make the left out of your driveway headed to a 10 day vacation............ *pop*. Every. Dang. Time.

 

[HermanTX]

I am passing this on simply because it was in another post and it was recommended due to its effectiveness. I have no direct knowledge of the product nor if it is applicable to your situation. But agree that any repair is just that - a repair - and needs to be monitored until it is permanently rectified.

Waterproof Plastic Repair Kits Fixes cracked ABS PVC Acrylic Wood More