purchased house with fiberglass pool

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If you really have a fiberglass pool(complete shell) Do NOT drain it half way! (my manual says no more than 1/4) you risk the sidewalks buldging and compromising the structural integrity of the shell. ( backfill pressure pushing the pool in)

Not an expert just telling you what my instructions sheet says. I would drain 1/4 refill to dilute the water and test again. Then do it again if need be.
 
Thanks for the advice! I am definitely concerned about that. So far it looks like it drained about a foot over 12 hours last night (7PM to 7AM) from siphoning, so I am planning on letting it siphon another foot during the day so that it has about a foot in the shallow end and start filling it up from there.

Hopefully doing this procedure over and over again until the CYA is at a normal level and ready to swim in the middle to later part of May.

Has anyone used the process of siphoning out of the bottom of the pool while currently running a hose to replace water at the top, or is this a waste of money? I don't see it being any more or less of a waste than what I am currently doing with dropping 2 feet at a time and then refilling/mixing and then dropping another 2 feet.

It appears that having a high CYA level in a pool is often caused by the trichlor chlorine feeder. Now I understand why bleach is stressed so much over the trichlor pucks because the pucks add stabalizer and the chlorine gets used up, but the CYA builds up.

I think I will still use the trichlor pucks as I have a $100 bucket full of them, but just at a very low level and keep a steady eye on CYA and make sure it doesn't creep up.
 
Temp - 60F
FC - 2.0
PH - 7.6
TA - 170
CH - 80
CYA - 80

So after draining a couple feet and filling repeatedly I am at the point of a decent CYA level at 80. I am not planning on using the trichlor pucks and hopefully with rain and eventual splashout over time the CYA level will start to drop to a more optimal level.

It looks like my TA is now 170 from the previous 75. Does that sound right or do I need to test again. I added city water to replace.

My CH is now 80 which makes sense since city water probably doesn't have much calcium in it. I have bought calcium chloride to bring it up to the appropriate level.
 
tooclosetosee said:
It looks like my TA is now 170 from the previous 75. Does that sound right or do I need to test again. I added city water to replace.
Click to expand...

You can test again if you want.. the high TA will cause the PH to drift up periodically - just lower the PH to 7.2 everytime you see it hit 7.8. Eventually the acid additions will lower the TA into range too, as Muratic Acid lowers both PH and TA.
 
I retested again and came with similar results to last time.
Temp - 60F
FC - 8.0
PH - 7.8
TA - 170
CH - 90
CYA - Assuming still at around 80

Thanks a lot! After reading pool school for like the 5th time and trying to figure out my android app Pool Pal it is starting to make sense.

It was telling me to add acid to reduce my PH to 7.2 to lower my total alkalinity, but then it was telling me that my PH was good.

Now I understand that a high TA will cause the PH to rise and just knock it down with Acid to a target 7.2 and wait for it to get to 7.8 again and repeat until the TA isn't so high.

It is telling me to add 30 pounds of Calcium Chloride and I have bought 20 pounds and added 8 pounds so far.

At what temperatures will you guys start swimming at?
 
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