Pump Suction Cracked Union Collar

[dmcody]

So somewhere along the way, i cracked the collar on the fitting connecting the pump to the suction side piping. I cleaned the pump basket strainer last night and when i took the cover off, it must have tweaked the fitting. Now its having a hard time priming. Based on the fittings being glued with no spacing, the only way I can think of fixing this is to cut the vertical sections coming out of the ground and properly re-plumbing the entire valve manifold with true union valves and proper spacing if possible.

Any other suggestions? Oh, and the kids are supposed to have friends over today after the last day of school. Band Aid suggestions are welcome too.

 

[mknauss]

Wrap it in plastic wrap for a band-aid.

You should consider replacing the ball valves with Jandy Never-lube type valves. The valves you have will eventually need replacing and another replumb will be needed.

 

[dmcody]

So given my tight fitting to fitting plumbing job, why wouldn't you consider a true union valve? Just seems that it would provide more flexibility for future repairs.

I do like the looks of the Jandy Valve, they appear to be rugged and would last a lifetime.

 

[mknauss]

You should have a union at the inlet to the pump. By using Jandy valves you could reconfigure your suction lines and use just two valves I believe. And you can repair them in place.

 

[Richard320]

The outer ring is the part that cracked, correct? If so, then you have the air leak because the plumbing is not being squeezed together. For the short term fix, I'd wrap a hose clamp around the ring to hold the pieces together and then tighten it up to shut off the leak.

 

[dmcody]

Richard320 - Correct, I can see the crack in the outer ring. I thought about the hose clamp, just have to find the sweet spot in tightness that allows me to still close the fitting. Thanks

mknauss - I was thinking using 3, 2-port valves to replace the current valves. Are you thinking one 2 port, and one 3 port valve which combines 2 suction lines? Normally, the 3 port valves allow one inlet from the choice of 2 inlets, or do they have the option that allows inlet from both? The suction lines from far to near in the picture are Shallow End Skimmer, Deep End Skimmer, Bottom Main Drain. I've normally run the pool with all three open unless I really needed to skim the top, then i shut the main drain.

- - - Updated - - -

A pool that I had in a former house had the plumbing done with all flex pool hose. I kind of liked that installation better for the flexibility of the system. I think the root cause of the crack was differential settlement between the pump pad and the piping system. Last summer when I hooked it up, i was having a hard time getting the piping to be level with the pump inlet. I had to pull piping up, tip the pump and make the connection. I'm sure i heard a crack when all was said and done. I think the flex hose would be a little more forgiving.

Any reason not to consider flex hose?

 

[mknauss]

I would think you could combine the skimmer lines to one 3 port and the main drain with a 2 port. You can align the valve on the 3 port to take flow from both inlets.

 

[Richard320]

If you use a skimmer port to connect a vacuum, you want to be able to isolate the one for better suction.

 

[dmcody]

Happy to report that the hose clamp worked. That just saved me from a frustrating week or so of ordering valves, buying supplies, measuring, cutting, redoing, swearing, drinking, etc... Now i can relax, plan it out over a few beverages, and do it right once - hopefully.

Thanks All!

Still interested in thoughts of flex hose vs hard piping. Is there a reason to use PVC?