Pump Stops After An Hour Or So..........

[JamesW]

If the motor is ok, then all you need to do is downsize the impeller.

The motor is not under warranty because it was not installed correctly, which voids the warranty.

If the motor is bad, then you need a new motor, but I would not install a bigger motor, I would use a 1.0 or 1.25 hp motor with a 073126 or a 073127 impeller.

Impeller......Total HP required.

073126.........0.95
073127.........1.25
073128.........1.65
073129.........2.20
073130.........2.60
073131.........3.45

 

[IguanaSwim]

Thanks for all of your comments. They completely surprised me this morning by giving me a new AO 100ELL pump motor. They are still convinced the failure of the motor installed in Nov. of 2020 was the result of some sort of problem in the wiring around the motor and not the motor itself.


It is set for 115.



I did find some old paperwork, the pool and timer were re-wired in March of 2018 due to "brittle wires." The company that did the re-wiring also re-did our FPL can and master switch/sprinkler pump wiring etc. on the side of the house, plus other work a few years back and none of that work has been a problem.

These are the switches in the fuse box which cut off power to the pool pump & dryer. 5 & 7 are in the off position right now.



The length of the wire from the timer to the motor is 7 feet. There is a switch just below the timer, so the distance from the motor to the switch would be 6 feet.



I don't think I was doing the continuity test on the lines in the conduit correctly. Since there is a switch below the timer, the place where I should test the wires in the conduit is below that point, not in the timer box.

At this point, I have the same continuity reading on all there wires. If I keep the prongs very still, I get a consistent long beep - no short beeps - and the reading stays at 8, 9 or 7. If I move the prongs at all, the beep continues but the readings jump all over. That means I have NO SHORT in the conduit, correct?

The three wires which attach to the motor look to be in rough shape. They have many tiny brown cuts in the insulation.



The wires in the switch box and timer do not have they tiny abrasions.




The motor wires have the little cuts even in the switch box.

Regarding the size of wires, there are many words and letters written on them, but I saw nowhere that they simply state the gauge. Using my insulation stripper, the ground seemed 16 gauge, and the white and black are bigger since they are braided wires. They seemed to fit the second hole down which is 10 gauge.



I really appreciate all of the comments and I will be circling back today to re-read all that currently apply.

My goal at this point is not to install a new good motor into a system where there's a flaw somewhere. I did buy a Greenlee clamp-on Anmeter because I've been wanting one for quite a while.

Wow I'm just realizing not sure I got the right ***** impeller. I got the Pentair 073128.

 

[JamesW]

Wow I'm just realizing not sure I got the right ***** impeller. I got the Pentair 073128.

That will overload and damage the new motor.

 

[IguanaSwim]

I will order a 073127 if I can't find one locally.

Regarding the air inflow being blocked by leaves and whatnot, I think the pool pump needs to come out of the ground and be re-set on gravel or something and that area re-graded. Thanks to everyone who pointed out that my pool pump is too low.

 

[JamesW]

These are the switches in the fuse box which cut off power to the pool pump & dryer. 5 & 7 are in the off position right now.

5 and 7 both go to a single 240 volt double pole 40 amp breaker, but your pump is wired for 120 volts?

Something does not make sense.

The pump should be on its own GFCI breaker.

The breaker can be a 120 volt single pole 20 amp GFCI breaker or a 240 volt double pole 15 or 20 amp GFCI breaker if you want to go with 240 volts.

I think that you probably need to get an electrician to rewire the pump correctly.

I would recommend a 240 volt double pole GFCI breaker and a 240 volt timer.

 

[Mike1162]

Sounds like his clothes dryer & pool pump may be on the same circuit!
I'd hate to see the voltage drop when both are running.
Anyway this needs to be corrected.

 

[JamesW]

Definitely not correct.

Time to call in an electrician to bring everything up to code.

 

[NowintersinAZ]

+1 on separating the two pieces of equipment. Even if a sub-panel needs installing. (just out of curiosity what is the amp draw on the dryer?)

If I was to modify the pump I would have put a multi-speed 1 1/2hp motor and the corresponding impeller.

 

[Mike1162]

Regarding the size of wires, there are many words and letters written on them, but I saw nowhere that they simply state the gauge.

Typically its the numbers preceding AWG if they can be read.
I'm guessing you don't have a basement. That'll make rewiring more difficult.

 

[NowintersinAZ]

The voltage at the timer is 123 volts and at the pump 118 volts. That about 4% and by your picture you show about 7 feet between them. That is a lot of volt drop for 7 feet with what looks like #12s

 

[JamesW]

I did find some old paperwork, the pool and timer were re-wired in March of 2018 due to "brittle wires." The company that did the re-wiring also re-did our FPL can and master switch/sprinkler pump wiring etc. on the side of the house, plus other work a few years back and none of that work has been a problem.

These are the switches in the fuse box which cut off power to the pool pump & dryer. 5 & 7 are in the off position right now.

It looks like they are connecting a single hot line to a 40 amp double breaker if the pump is powered from the 5/7 breaker.

If that is what they did, then they are incompetent.

In any case, the wiring is all wrong and it needs to be redone by a competent electrician.

 

[willygee]

So good to have pump and electrical pundits on this forum..Between diy hvac troubleshooting, automotive parasitic draw and more, i live for amp clamp, capacitance and voltage drop values . OP keep us posted

 

[Poolbreh]

Lol this post just got wild, I would resort to what James said and check if there is rubbing(impeller-diffuser) often times if the motor isn’t seated properly against the seal plate the impeller will rub on one side which causes overheating. It’s usually pretty noticeable in the diffuser and impeller.