Pump Run Time

[JamesW]

The gas trap is probably safer by answering “Is there gas accumulating so the cell must shutdown?”

If the purpose is to prevent dangerous gas accumulation then the gas trap is probably a better and more reliable method.

That is the argument in Australia and why they require the gas trap.

It works, but I think that it requires a goofy plumbing design and it might require too much flow.

The gas sensing tang is on the side of the cell close to the top.

The power supply monitors it for voltage.

If it is covered with water, the power supply will see voltage when the cell is powered.

It will simply pick up the stray voltage from the electrodes in the water.

The gas sensing tang is simply a piece of titanium welded to a wire there are no moving parts so it is about as reliable as you can get.

In Australia It is a code requirement to have a gas sensor (like the paddle switch, or our gas sensing tang) but it must also have a gas trap as well.

There is no code requirement to have a gas trap in North America.

When a filter explodes and it takes out half of a house and kills someone I am sure that we will see a requirement here as well.

Safety features of a salt chlorination system

Hi Mark, Can you explain the underlined section below for me, does the water flow detection work because of the absence of water & the presence of gas, all off the back of a single sensor or detector? Or are these two different detectors, i.e. one for water flow & one for gas? Safety features...

www.watermaid.ca

 

[kaymaza]

I've heard that the entre water of the pool needs to go through the filter once per day. Typically, that means the pump has to run about 8 hours.

I've been looking at the equipment that was installed here to see if I can save some money. It turns out I have a Jandy VSSHP270DV2A pump which is in Jandy's "Commercial" pump section. To my surprise, this is quite a powerful unit. I looked at the manual and found this:


View attachment 471288

I estimate my pool size to be 10K gallons or so and the pump always runs at 3450 RPM, according to iAcqualink.

Without knowing the Total Dynamic Head and just going with 80 GPM (middle of the chart), that means that this pump moves 4,800 gallons of water per hour. Estimating even more conservatively and using 60 GPM, that means that it can move 3,600 gallons of water per hour.

Considering that I have a 10K gallon pool, heck, let's say 12K gallons to be safe, would it be safe to assume that I just need to run this pump for 3-4 hours a day? I've been experimenting all winter and running it 4.5 hours a day (the installer left it at 8 hours) and testing frequently and haven't seen anything happen to the water. It has been crystal clear for months now.

Is my math here right or am I missing something? I wonder if I could reduce run time even more to like 3 hours, but would like to get some opinions. I wonder if the math really is that straight forward. I could also leave it running longer at a lower RPM, but I'm not sure what the preferred option is.

Also, assuming I can run it for less time, I will need to crank up the SWG to compensate for the reduced running time, right? The installer left it at 80% and when I finally started testing myself I discovered my chlorine was at an insane 14 ppm. I've adjusted since then, always based on testing, and I've managed to keep it at 10-30%, most of the time staying between 15-20%.

For reference, here's the manual of my pump: https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodia...5700.pdf?rev=a135e740888444e680a0d3d0a77ce28e

Sorry to hijack your thread. I have the same pump as you and wanted to ask how you went about connecting your pool pump to the iAqualink app? My pool builder told me that it wasn't possible to do that.

 

[revv]

No worries; the thread is kind of all over the place anyway as I try to figure out what the heck is wrong with my system with the help of folks on this awesome forum.

The pool guy that was sent by the pool builder to start the pool had to connect some sort of device to register it. I can't offer much more insight than this but I can tell you it is possible and it works great. The UI seems like something from the early 90s, but it works on both mobile and desktop browsers.

 

[revv]

Updating.

I was out for about 2 weeks. During that time, the pool folks came by and flipped the SWC so now arrows are pointing in the right direction. Things have gotten better, but I think there is still some work to do.

I can prime the pump just fine, but the basket will only fill all the way up if the pump is running at max RPM if I have just closed the lid on the pump after cleaning the basket. However, once the pump has filled the basked, I reduced the pump's RPMs to 1750. I see some air in both the basket and the SWC, but it doesn't seem to be super concerning? How much air should there be there?

Take a look:

Furthermore, any ideas on how to get the pump to prime and fill up all the way at lower RPMs after breaking the seal to clean the basket out?