Pump Replacement

[CVR]

Hi all, we recently left our pump (Hayward Super Pump) running over the weekend and came home to it not running. I tried everything I could think of: testing power with voltage tester all the way to the motor hookups, checking for debris/obstructions, there was no humming whatsoever so I did not test the capacitor. To no avail I ended up caving and deciding to upgrade to a variable speed pump (Century V-Green 1.65 HP). The pump was old (not sure how old as I recently purchased home), noisy and on rare occasion would shut off from over heating. I figured it was time for an upgrade.

Fast forward to today and I installed the replacement motor. I followed a step by step tutorial on INYO pools where I bought the pump from (How to Install a Variable Speed V-Green 165 Pool Motor - INYOPools.com). All went well except the pump is not lighting up. No evidence of power to the motor even though I verified the two inputs are hot and each showing 120V.

Any thoughts on what could be my issue? INYO suggested I call an electrician out to evaluate, then the pump manufacturer regarding a warranty if everything checks out. I can’t seem to justify calling an electrician knowing the power is supplying the motor, unless there’s something I’m missing? I’m trying to avoid additional costs as I’ve already poured more into this than I’d like to… any help is appreciated!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Hey @cowboycasey, do you own one of these?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

You probably need a multimeter that provides actual voltage as opposed to go/no go tester. You need to probe L1 and L2 to check for true voltage. Voltage should be within 10% of the nameplate voltage (see Step 6 below).

How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage - INYOPools.com

This guide explains how to use a multimeter to measure AC voltage to your pool pump motor.

www.inyopools.com

 

[CVR]

You probably need a multimeter that provides actual voltage as opposed to go/no go tester. You need to probe L1 and L2 to check for true voltage. Voltage should be within 10% of the nameplate voltage (see Step 6 below).

How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage - INYOPools.com

This guide explains how to use a multimeter to measure AC voltage to your pool pump motor.

www.inyopools.com

Thanks for the insight. I’ll get one of those tomorrow and report back the results!

 

[cowboycasey]

I do have one and love it..

You should have 220v between line 1 and 2 like below.. use an actual voltage tester to know exactly what voltage your getting... It sounds like the power is the problem and not the old pump... You made a great decision to go to the VS pump as it will save you massive money in the long run...

Your breaker may be bad at the panel.. if the breaker is not supplying 220v then try changing out the breaker and see what you get..

It would help if I added the diagram..

 

[CVR]

Voltage came back at 231V which should be right on the money. The nameplate gives a 208-230V range.

 

[cowboycasey]

That sure looks like 2.31v not 231v

Check from ground to 1 or 2, does it say 1.20v or 120v

 

[CVR]

That sure looks like 2.31v not 231v

Check from ground to 1 or 2, does it say 1.20v or 120v

It reads 124V

 

[cowboycasey]

This is where an electrician comes in... With it reading 2.31v something is wrong and I have no idea what it is... Maybe someone else here knows what it is...

 

[MSchutzer]

If you have 120 VAC from L1 to ground and also from L2 to ground but only 2 volts from L1 to L2 then you only have a single phase hooked up back at the breaker.

This could be because both wires (L1 and L2) are connected to the same phase back at the breaker.

Take you multimeter and start making measurements from the breaker and work forward to the pump. Are you sure your old motor was running off of 220 VAC and not 120 volts? Somehow you seem to be connected to the same phase, especially if you have 120VAC from both L1 and L2 to ground.

 

[MSchutzer]

The other possibility is that one of the supply wires is open. Is the motor connected directly to the pump breaker or do you have a timer / switch inline with one of the wires? If the timer switch is off and only one of the supply wires is routed through the timer switch then you will read 120 VAC from L1 and L2 to ground and also read no voltage from L1 to L2.

That may be what's going on, your timer/switch has failed and the pump isn't getting one of the voltage phases as a result so it's just off.

 

[CVR]

I verified there is 240V running to the pool equipment. I read 240V inputting to the timer and exiting the timer. The input to the safety switch also read 240V but the output was only 2.3V. So the safety switch is the culprit! Once I replace that I should be in business. Will report back once the swap is complete.

 

[MSchutzer]

I think you may have a blown fuse. Both fuses should be 15A and it looks like the 8A fuse might be blown.

I would not expect that you would see 240 VAC at the output of the safety switch with the cover open as I think you need to have the lever off to open the cover.

Turn off the power at the breaker and then unscrew each fuse and check the fuses continuity with the multimeter on ohms position. They should read something close to zero ohms, less than a couple of ohms at most. I bet the 8A fuse is open and needs to be replaced. That's probably why your first motor quit.

I would replace both fuses with a pair of new 15 amp time delay fuses.

 

[willygee]

That 8 amp has that burnt open look...a camp we used to own had these type of fuses...has that failed look. HD,Lowes Ace still sell these.

 

[wireform]

I think it's time for a licensed electrician as you're not code compliant either without gfci protection.