Pump Replacement Help

[cwoav8r]

Sorry, yes I have soured the internet and TFP, but I remain a little confused with all the options. It's time to replace my pool pump motor again, but I feel like I would rather go with a Pentair 3hp pump. I just want a newer VS pump to work with my Pool Heater and connect to the Intellicenter. I was looking hard at the Intelliflo 3, but it looks like it is only wifi or BT... I cant find anything about RS485 in the manual. Suggestions from you guys that have similar setups?

 

[mknauss]

The Intelliflo3 will communicate with your Intellicenter via RS485.

 

[Jimrahbe]

8r,

It would work perfectly with your IntelliCenter's com port.

Keep in mind they sell 1.5 HP and 3 HP IntelliFlo3 pumps.. Make sure you get the 3 HP version..

IntelliFlo3 VSF

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[cwoav8r]

Okay, so do I need the one with the I/O board or is that for relays... is the touchscreen really necessary or just a nice backup. This is my first "smart" pump and I don't want to screw it up.

011075
011076 w/ I/O board
011077 w/ Touchscreen

And I forgot to mention, I do want the option to add a spa sometime in the future which I why I and the higher HP pump.

Thanks!

 

[Jimrahbe]

8r,

You do not need the relay card, as you have an IntelliCenter...

You do not "need" the display, but if one of my IntelliFlo pumps died today, I'd replace it with an IntelliFlo3 with the display. Just because I am used to it.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[cwoav8r]

Thanks Guys, that's what I needed.

I'ts on the way...

 

[cwoav8r]

So, I got the Intelliflo3 installed, and moving from the single speed to the VSF has caused my to question my setup. I have the VSF wired directly to the CBs and moved my SWG from the AUX relay that I jumped back to load side of the Filter Pump relay. Data cables are correct as well. What has me scratching my head is why I loose temp readings, and I get a no flow alert from the Intellichlor when the pump schedule ends.

Now, maybe to answer my own question, I think I figured out that the Pool Circuit needs to be on all the time? When I turn it on, I get my salt cell reading back as well as my temps. Do my settings look correct to you guys? I shouldn't have any lights on the ic40 with just the Pool Circuit active... correct?

Thanks!
Ed

 

[cwoav8r]

So, no... that can't be correct. When I just turn on "Pool" it energizes the Filter Pump relay... No pump but I get alternating red and green, no flow, and % leds on the SWG.

I guess I figured the VSF data would turn off the Filter Pump relay when it was not running, but that is not the case. I changed the timer for the Pool circuit to 10A to 6P to match the feature circuits for speed.

I didn't realize the Pool circuit schedule was still set to the default 8A to 8P before this last change... that is why I was getting the alerts from the IC40. I think I am beginning to understand the logic behind the system... a little...

 

[Jimrahbe]

8R,

The Pump/Filter relay will only close if you are in the Pool or Spa modes.. Period!!

Pump, 20, 30 and 50 do NOT close the Pump/Filter relay.

The best approach is to have the Pool Circuit on for the entire time you want the pump to run for any reason.

I personally run 24/7, mostly at 1200 RPM, as I have a SWCG and no heater. Costs me less than $20 bucks a month and.. without any proof, think that it will make my pumps last longer than turning things on and off every day.. Only time will tell, but I am at well over 10 years on three different IntelliFlo pumps, and so far so good...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[cwoav8r]

@Jimrahbe jimrahbe, but if I have the "pool circuit" runnning 24/7 I still have constant power to the pump filter relay and thus the SWG? I am single body so I only have the pool, maybe I dont know the difference in setup or activation of "pool mode"???

Here is what I see happens with my schedules.

Pool circuit on at 9AM:
Panel alive, SWCG alive, showing temps etc.

Pump 30 Feature circuit on at 10AM, pump starts at 30 GPM

I just dont want to have an explosion at my pool pad

So wait, are you saying you run your pump 24/7 365?

 

[Jimrahbe]

8r,

I assume you have the slowest speed your ever want to run (SWCG speed) assigned to the "Pool" Circuit.. If not, that has to happen..

For me this is 1200 RPM.. I am not a fan of running GPM, but to each his own.. If you have a heater or heat pump your lowest speed will be about 1500 to 1700 RPM.. Or whatever that is in GPM..

Oh.. Yes a lot of us run 24/7/356 as we find it works best for us.. Not required, just something we like to do.. I like making a little chlorine all the time and skimming all the time.. I also like to see my pool when there is a little motion to the water.

Edit.. I also think that my pump will outlast your pump, but only time will tell...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[cwoav8r]

Yea, that does make sense to run it 24/7. I'll give it a chance for a month and see what my electric bill looks like . It's gonna take some tweaking, but I expected it...

Edit - I'll check and see at what pump speed the no flow led comes on tomorrow when I get home.

Only potential problems:

1 - I'm running the SWG at 40% now for 8 hours. If I run it 24, then I need to cut it back?
2 - Keeping proper flow through the SWG... that's one of the reasons I use GPM vs RPM.
3 - I know I have a flow problem, I need to replace the cells in my DE filter, going to do that this weekend.
4 - Other flow problem, skimmer and main drain lines are 1.5" and the line to three returns, filter and heater are 2".

Sample flow rates according to the VSF:

 

[Jimrahbe]

8r,

Just to be clear.. My cell's flow switch closes at about 1100 RPM, so I add 100 RPM, just to make sure..

That is pretty much what we recommend. SWCG's flow switch close RPM, plus 100 or so RPM. (Or GPM, whatever works for you.)

At 1200 RPM, your pump used 108 Watts.. At 1200 RPM my pump uses just under 200 Watts. This is because all my IntelliFlo pumps are over 10 years old.. All the newer pumps are even more efficient. From that point of view you have a much better IntelliFlo than I have...

I always say I can run my pump 24/7 for less than $20 bucks a month.. But I say that because not everyone has low cost electrical rates, so I use $20 bucks.. It is really about $12 bucks a month to run 24/7.. But I have no heater so I can run at a lower RPM and still close my flow switch.. If I had a heater, I'd most likely have to run at 1500 to 1700 RPM..

Yes.. you will have to adjust your SWCG's output down, to match your increased run time.

The size of the plumbing lines does not have a lot to do with the flow at low RPMs.. Most problems with pipe sizes is when you are trying to run at max speed for some reason.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[cwoav8r]

Well, I do have the advantage of an 18kW solar plant on my roof... I have not had an electric bill since 2021, so I really don't expect an impact as far as that is concerned.

I have tweaked everything for now and I'll let it run for a few days and we'll see how it goes.

Thanks a TON Jim for all the help, this and all the other threads you guys respond to are SOOOO much help and it is greatly appreciated!

Ed