Pump rated flow vs. actual flow at pool???

Osmigo

Well-known member
Jan 21, 2024
52
Comfort, Texas
Pool Size
8600
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Our new pool will be ready for swimming in 3-4 more weeks, and I'm curious about the pumping capacity. According to the specs on the factory web page, the 1.85HP Hayward TriStar XE pumps about 65GPM at 1725RPM (I can't remember where I saw that). The equipment pad has the pump, then a WaterCo centrifugal filter, then a Hayward cartridge filter, then a Hayward heater/chiller. Pool is 8600 gallons, no water features. There's a 90 degree turn right at the pad, but it's pretty straight from there to the pool. Can you give me SOME idea of what the actual flow will be at the pool? I'm trying to get a rough mental picture of how much time it takes to circulate the pool water. I'm sure it's not the exact amount listed in the pump specs.
 
Your pool pump needs to run at a rate for a reason. Your heater/chiller, when you run it, will need a certain rate. You do not mention a SaltWater Chlorine Generator so you need the pump to run when you add the liquid chlorine each day. The base rate to run at is to achieve skimming of the pool surface.

Your pool does not need a magic number of 'turnovers' each day. That is a myth.
 
Your pool pump needs to run at a rate for a reason. Your heater/chiller, when you run it, will need a certain rate. You do not mention a SaltWater Chlorine Generator so you need the pump to run when you add the liquid chlorine each day. The base rate to run at is to achieve skimming of the pool surface.

Your pool does not need a magic number of 'turnovers' each day. That is a myth.
Interesting, thanks. There are so many "recommendations" in this area, it's hard to know what data to trust. Some say run your pump 24/7, others say "one turnover per day," and so on. No salt generator, BTW. I was told I would be using liquid chlorine at first, then change over to the tablet-fed Hayward chlorine dispenser. Our pool should be pretty clean overall - no kids or pool parties, just my wife and I. I know the rate would be different if the heater/chiller were running, but otherwise, I didn't want to run the pump more than I needed to.
 
Since you have converted to pucks, understand that they add CYA to the pool. When CYA gets above about 60, you will need to replace water to reduce CYA.

You need to maintain your FC based on your CYA...so as you add more CYA with pucks, you need higher levels of FC to sanitize the pool.

Some good reading and a tool for you...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

How are you testing your pool water?
 
Excellent reading links, thanks! I've always been concerned about the pucks, for that specific reason. Seems like ALL of them have CYA in them. Seems like they would also make them without CYA, to use once your CYA is good.

As far as water testing, we don't have water in it yet. Plaster should be in about a week.
 
Sounds like the liquid chlorine would be an easy choice, once the CYA is stabilized. Walmart has 10% pool chlorine for $5.67 a gallon. For my pool, 11 oz. would raise the FC 1%, so a gallon (128 oz) would go a long way and cost virtually nothing.
 

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Sounds like the liquid chlorine would be an easy choice, once the CYA is stabilized. Walmart has 10% pool chlorine for $5.67 a gallon. For my pool, 11 oz. would raise the FC 1%, so a gallon (128 oz) would go a long way and cost virtually nothing.
That is a good choice.

It comes with a kit, I'm not sure which one. It says, "DPD Test Kit."
Depending on the kit, might be ok, but you want to add a K-1515 FAS-DPD FC testing kit for FC testing, or get it here: FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit
 
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