I turned off the pump to change the filter. When I flip the switch to turn it back on, nothing happens. I can hear the timer clicking. The wires are secure and tested the power with a multimeter it is getting 120 volts. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem could be?
Pump not turning on
- Thread starter Rabber
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,754
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
Can you post a pic of your timer? Also tell us if you turned the power off at the timer or the pump itself? Might also help to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info for future posts and reference. Hopefully we can help you out.
Can you post a pic of your timer? Also tell us if you turned the power off at the timer or the pump itself? Might also help to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info for future posts and reference. Hopefully we can help you out.Thank you.Welcome to TFP!
I turned it off at the timer. I don’t see what way to turn it on manually at the pump.Attachments
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,754
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You mentioned that you tested 120V earlier. Is that what your Hayward pump is set-up for - 120V? Not 240? I ask because unless that's some sort of coating, Line 3 looks to be burnt. If that terminal is fried, you're only getting half the circuit. 120V might allow the clock to operate (the clicking) but not the pump. Let's get a second opinion from @ajw22 or @JamesW .
Last edited:
I think you're right. I'm still learning.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,754
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Aren't we all! Ha. Until we get some more eyes on this, do you happen to see which timer that is (T103, T104)? Also, do you know what else is wired into the timer other than just the pump?
I looked on the back and the only writing I see is “Made in Mexico” I don’t know how to tell if it is T103 or T104. I don’t think anything else is wired into the timer. There is a heater that doesn’t work. An orange light comes on when I flip the switch, but is doesn’t do anything. There is a light in the pool and a 500 watt light above the pool, but I don’t think any of those are connected to the timer.
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,233
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That looks like a T103 since you have a neutral under screw A and it looks like the white timer wires are connected to screws A and 1.
How many wires do you have connected under each screw? Best practice is to not have more than 2 wires under each screw.
Full specs on the pump, wires, breakers, and all that is connected to the timer to comment further on the adequacy of that timer setup.
How many wires do you have connected under each screw? Best practice is to not have more than 2 wires under each screw.
Full specs on the pump, wires, breakers, and all that is connected to the timer to comment further on the adequacy of that timer setup.
There are no more than two wires under each screw. There is also salt water chlorinator attached to the timer, but I don’t use it since the cell is bad. Here are the pump specs and a picture of the breaker box.
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,233
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I don't know what burned out that screw but I see a bunch of wires scrunched behind the yellow tab.
You can get a T104 timer, cap off the neutral wire, and run the timer all on 24V.
You can get a T104 timer, cap off the neutral wire, and run the timer all on 24V.