Pump Noise and Low Pressure
- Thread starter kchinger
- Start date
Impeller is 390050, which I believe is 3/4 HP.
Even smaller than I thought. So the 1.67 is still the cheapest and smallest HP direct fit I'm seeing, so I'll order that.
Thanks for the help. Sorry for the confusion.
Not sure why they had such a big motor on it.
Even smaller than I thought. So the 1.67 is still the cheapest and smallest HP direct fit I'm seeing, so I'll order that.
Thanks for the help. Sorry for the confusion.
Not sure why they had such a big motor on it.
Standardization probably. And so they can upsell it.
As a comparison, I had a pump with a 2hp motor. One day I pulled the wet end apart and the impeller was a 1hp sized. I was surprised to say the least. Again, probably to upsell the pump.
Took my motor off to install my new VSP, and noticed this on the back of the impeller (motor side).
Looks like something got hot and melted the impeller maybe? Does this look like I need a new impeller, or can I fix this one? Or is it just okay as is?
Thanks.
Looks like something got hot and melted the impeller maybe? Does this look like I need a new impeller, or can I fix this one? Or is it just okay as is?
Thanks.
There are also some small cracks on the inside in that area. I'm guessing I should just order a new impeller and try to keep the pool clean without the pump for a couple days? I feel like at another $85, I'm up to $115 not including the motor, I should've just gotten a new pump.
Edit: merged.
Edit: merged.
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Does this look okay? This is the seal plate around the main shaft seal. There is rust, plus some sort of blue cling film type stuff that has been damaged. 
Any pump experts who could weigh in? I need to do something quickly since my motor is all disconnected now and it's a race to keep the pool okay.
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Alright, I really didn't like the looks of the pump parts I was finding, so I went ahead and just ordered the PL2625 PureLine Prime Variable Speed Pool Pump 1.65 HP Salt Friendly for just $680. Salt friendly might be a gimmick, but it makes sense to me, so it's worth the extra few bucks.
I was already in for $430 or something for the motor, plus $30 for the pump seals kit, so the extra $220 or whatever seems worth it, considering I'm pretty sure that pump wasn't in great shape.
I should've done it originally. Oh well. Live and learn. Only cost me the approx $40 it'll cost to ship the motor back (plus money for extra chlorine while the pump is down, and the time I wasted Sunday trying to use the old pump).
I was already in for $430 or something for the motor, plus $30 for the pump seals kit, so the extra $220 or whatever seems worth it, considering I'm pretty sure that pump wasn't in great shape.
I should've done it originally. Oh well. Live and learn. Only cost me the approx $40 it'll cost to ship the motor back (plus money for extra chlorine while the pump is down, and the time I wasted Sunday trying to use the old pump).
- May 3, 2014
- 58,280
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I believe that Pureline has a relay you can wire your SWCG through so that the SWCG is only getting power when the pump is running.
I believe that's only on the 2.7 HP one, not the 1.65, but I'll see when it gets here.
I probably wouldn't use it anyway, since I can only go down to 5% on my generator, and it's so oversized for the pool and the sun we get that 4 hours at 5% is all I need certain times of the year. I never get much above 25 or 30% at 5 hours, which if I'm running the VSP 20 hours a day or so won't work for a lot of the year.
My plan is just to leave the SWG run from the timer, and run the pump from the line side. Still a possibility of them getting out of sync, but the flow switch is there for a backup, and they wouldn't be out of sync for long before I noticed.
I got the old pump mostly pulled out except the strainer.
Any ideas how to get this out? Should I just cut the grey pipe close the strainer? Or is it threaded like it looks and will just spin? It seems pretty stuck.
There is some sort of stone base with a few bolt holes into it that were holding the old pump cradle. Will the new one need to be bolted too?
Any ideas how to get this out? Should I just cut the grey pipe close the strainer? Or is it threaded like it looks and will just spin? It seems pretty stuck.
There is some sort of stone base with a few bolt holes into it that were holding the old pump cradle. Will the new one need to be bolted too?
Got the strainer pot removed. It was threaded, just had a lot of tape and was a bit stuck.
The grey pipe I'm not sure about. I assume I'll just cut it and put my new union on it, with a reducer in between and a tiny section of 2 inch pvc to connect it all? Is it pvc though that will glue like normal, or is it something else? It's threaded, but not metal.
I have 10 inches from face of threads to center of my existing union. Looks like the new pump is maybe 9.5 inches in that dimension.
The grey pipe I'm not sure about. I assume I'll just cut it and put my new union on it, with a reducer in between and a tiny section of 2 inch pvc to connect it all? Is it pvc though that will glue like normal, or is it something else? It's threaded, but not metal.
I have 10 inches from face of threads to center of my existing union. Looks like the new pump is maybe 9.5 inches in that dimension.
Any ideas if that's CPVC? It looks like 1.5, ideally I'd keep the 2 inch from the valve to the new pump, to at least have essentially 2 inch suction (2 skimmers at 1.5 each). Is that possible to do with what I have to work with?
This is turning into more of a blog than a forum, but whatever.
Decided the nipple was likely Sch 80, possibly CPVC, not marked, so who knows. I couldn't get it to unthread from the other side, but there really wasn't a reason to anyway. I used the all purpose glue that's good for CPVC, Sch 40, and Sch 80 (and ABS for good measure), so it shouldn't matter what it was.
Got the horizontal intake all glued up and the pump in place, but the front of the pump is sitting a touch off the paver, so I need more sand under the front of the paver to get the right angle. Decided I'm not going to bolt it, at least not now. Seems like most people don't bolt them except in CA where it's code apparently.
I did go ahead and remove and temporarily cap (just sitting on it, since I need to blow it out still each closing) my pressure side cleaner. It was in the way of my new plumbing, and it isn't used anyway. I was considering maybe turning it into a return someday? It outlets between my skimmers though on the same wall, so might not be good for skimming flow.
I also forgot to get 2" sleeves, so I couldn't make my final joints on the output side last night. Going to do that first thing when I get home so hopefully it'll have 2 hours while having dinner and stuff and then can finish the wiring and pressure test/run it after the kids go down. Wasn't paying attention to the 240V fact when I bought my wire, so I have black, white, green. I'll have to electrical tape the end of the white to meet code, since it should be red.
This winter I might redo my intake piping above ground to be all 2" since it's 2x1.5" skimmers to the pad right now. Dig down, put a 1.5 to 2" adapter underground, then 2" through all the elbows, new 2" neverlube valves, and then 2" into the intake of the pump.
Main drain side would still be 1.5" all the way to the pool, and the return is still 1.5", but it's a start at least.
Decided the nipple was likely Sch 80, possibly CPVC, not marked, so who knows. I couldn't get it to unthread from the other side, but there really wasn't a reason to anyway. I used the all purpose glue that's good for CPVC, Sch 40, and Sch 80 (and ABS for good measure), so it shouldn't matter what it was.
Got the horizontal intake all glued up and the pump in place, but the front of the pump is sitting a touch off the paver, so I need more sand under the front of the paver to get the right angle. Decided I'm not going to bolt it, at least not now. Seems like most people don't bolt them except in CA where it's code apparently.
I did go ahead and remove and temporarily cap (just sitting on it, since I need to blow it out still each closing) my pressure side cleaner. It was in the way of my new plumbing, and it isn't used anyway. I was considering maybe turning it into a return someday? It outlets between my skimmers though on the same wall, so might not be good for skimming flow.
I also forgot to get 2" sleeves, so I couldn't make my final joints on the output side last night. Going to do that first thing when I get home so hopefully it'll have 2 hours while having dinner and stuff and then can finish the wiring and pressure test/run it after the kids go down. Wasn't paying attention to the 240V fact when I bought my wire, so I have black, white, green. I'll have to electrical tape the end of the white to meet code, since it should be red.
This winter I might redo my intake piping above ground to be all 2" since it's 2x1.5" skimmers to the pad right now. Dig down, put a 1.5 to 2" adapter underground, then 2" through all the elbows, new 2" neverlube valves, and then 2" into the intake of the pump.
Main drain side would still be 1.5" all the way to the pool, and the return is still 1.5", but it's a start at least.
Got it installed. Pics tomorrow maybe, it's really late here. Big air space in the SWG at low speeds, but the manual says if using a VSP at low speed you can flip the cell over so the bubbles don't form. I'll do that tomorrow. Right now the default schedule has the rpm so high that it isn't forming big bubbles.
No leaks, and it's definitely very quiet at low speeds. Only getting 2 or 3 psi compared to my previous 15 to 20, full speed gets me up to around 12 or so though. I'll just have to learn new clean and dirty psi numbers. Outlet I used 2 inch as long as I could and 2 45 instead of a 90, so at least that section is efficient, lol.
No leaks, and it's definitely very quiet at low speeds. Only getting 2 or 3 psi compared to my previous 15 to 20, full speed gets me up to around 12 or so though. I'll just have to learn new clean and dirty psi numbers. Outlet I used 2 inch as long as I could and 2 45 instead of a 90, so at least that section is efficient, lol.
This morning, went out and checked it before work. Still no leaks that I can see, everything perfectly dry (wasn't the case before, I had a small leak on the pressure side of the pump somewhere).
I am getting bubbles from the returns, a decent number, that looks like what I get when the SWG is on, except it isn't. Only seems to occur at lower speeds, but I'll verify tonight.
I guess things to check are: water hose test around my new suction side unions and joints, plus the suction side pump drain plug maybe. Strainer lid o-ring lube and tighten a bit.
Other than that, it seems like I just shouldn't worry about a bit of air collecting when on low speed, it just happens sometimes basically?
I am getting bubbles from the returns, a decent number, that looks like what I get when the SWG is on, except it isn't. Only seems to occur at lower speeds, but I'll verify tonight.
I guess things to check are: water hose test around my new suction side unions and joints, plus the suction side pump drain plug maybe. Strainer lid o-ring lube and tighten a bit.
Other than that, it seems like I just shouldn't worry about a bit of air collecting when on low speed, it just happens sometimes basically?