Well, if it's not one thing it's another, as they say! Trying to get the pool vacuumed and covered, but the last couple days, the outlet pump is plugged into would trip the breaker. We assumed it was a faulty outlet, so replaced it. Still tripped. Just now, I ran an extension to another outlet to bypass the usual one. Now when I plug it in, I just get a humming sound. So I assume the pump was responsible for tripping the breaker? Or would there been some sort of surge in the outlet that messed up the pump (Im not really up on my electrical skills). Wanting to get the pool closed asap, but I think there might still be a bit too much debris (not tons as I just vacuumed the other day). Do I delay closing until we can get the pump replaced (hate to do that just to have a new pump sit over the winter), or just close it with whatever is in there? I dumped a couple containers of bleach in tonight since it's still sunny and low 70s.
Pump just hums...
- Thread starter spf30
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,980
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
No doubt a clean pool is a happy pool for its winter slumber. Your call on when to close based on your schedule. For the pump/motor, if it's not moving and only making a humming sound, it may be a capacitor that needs to be replaced. You might also check inside the pump where water goes into the impeller area to make sure nothing got past the basket and is jamming it up. In some cases the motor bearings might be getting old/rusted. Some people will check by removing the rear plate to the motor power OFF) and see if they can get a wrench on the motor shaft to spin it once or twice by hand to see if that helps temporarily.
Ive been watching some videos as to what to trouble shoot, and all have mentioned what you've mentioned! One thing that wasn't clear was (and I reiterate I'm not 'electric' savvy!), but it seemed the videos didn't discuss shutting off breaker when opening up the rear plate to try to get the motor shaft spinning. I know one needs to before messing with the capacitor, but is it ok to be using a wrench etc without killing the power first? And also, what is it that I will be looking/feeling for when I check the impeller area (where water enters)? I saw where I should do that, but that part was never shown as to 'how to'? THanks!
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,980
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Correct, make sure the power is OFF when you remove the rear cover to the motor. At the very back you should see the end of the motor shaft. Depending on teh motor, you might see a fitting that will allow you to get an open-ended wrench on it, or it may be slightly tucked behind a switch. I'll try to post a pic or two for you.
For the impeller area, again with pump OFF, remove the pump lid and strainer basket and reach down where the water goes deep into the pump towards the filter. You should feel a fan-like plaster piece that "should" spin relatively easy. In fact, try that first. If you can spin the impeller by hand (or fingertips), there's no sense removing the rear motor cover because if the impeller spins with your finger tips, you don't need to do the wrench trick I mentioned above. The impeller is connected to the motor shaft on teh front end.
If the impeller moves freely to where you rule out anything stuck or tangled around the impeller, and the motor shaft moves freely, then go back to replacing the capacitor.
For the impeller area, again with pump OFF, remove the pump lid and strainer basket and reach down where the water goes deep into the pump towards the filter. You should feel a fan-like plaster piece that "should" spin relatively easy. In fact, try that first. If you can spin the impeller by hand (or fingertips), there's no sense removing the rear motor cover because if the impeller spins with your finger tips, you don't need to do the wrench trick I mentioned above. The impeller is connected to the motor shaft on teh front end.
If the impeller moves freely to where you rule out anything stuck or tangled around the impeller, and the motor shaft moves freely, then go back to replacing the capacitor.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,980
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If the impeller doesn't move freely with your fingertips and you rule out anything in there tangling it in the wet-end of the pump, then you can try to move the motor shaft to ensure it's not just stuck. See teh pics below.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,980
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If the motor shaft moves freely, then go back to replacing the capacitor. Hopefully that will do the trick. Cheap & easy replacement. Be sure to discharge a cap to remove and stored/stray voltage. If you're not sure about how, let us know. Lots of videos online for that as well.
If you can spin the motor shaft easily with the back cover removed, then you could turn the motor on and give it a quick spin to get it started.
Mine did that this year and I was able to get the pump working until I could get a new cap.
Mine did that this year and I was able to get the pump working until I could get a new cap.
Breaker off/pump unplugged.........a capacitor can still hold enough juice to jolt you. Be careful and lay a scew driver blade across the contacts to discharge it.