Pump issue

[Sendit6]

Opened the pool this week and the pump won’t start.
1.5 hp single speed. Olympic brand.

Electrician came over and tested the switch on the wall, said there’s power going to the switch and power leaving the switch. For some reason he took the switch halfway apart and said he’d be back to test if it was the capacitor or something else.

Hasn’t come back since then, hasn’t returned cal or multiple texts.

The pool store said they’ll pro-rate the warranty for a new one, essentially giving me a $200.00 credit towards a new one. Which is great, but I need to find out what the deal is with this one.

Anyone have any insight as to what the issue could be?

This is how they left it:

 

[ajw22]

You have to complete the diagnostics.

What voltage is between L1 and L2 at the pump connections?

Is the pump wired for 120V or 220V?

The motor does not have an external capacitor hump. It may have an internal capacitor.

 

[Sendit6]

It’s wired for 220.

Someone who used to work for me, but went off to become an electrician a few years ago, is coming by shortly. He’s not a master electrician, just a general one, and so I’m hoping he can diagnose what’s going on. And test the voltage and anything else that’s he’s able to.

 

[ajw22]

It’s wired for 220.

Someone who used to work for me, but went off to become an electrician a few years ago, is coming by shortly. He’s not a master electrician, just a general one, and so I’m hoping he can diagnose what’s going on. And test the voltage and anything else that’s he’s able to.

This stuff does not require a Master Electrician.

Just someone who knows the basics of following voltages and can take a structured diagnostic approach.

I don't know why your Master Electrician focused on the switch. Best to start at the pump and work backwards if there is not voltage at the pump. If the proper voltage is at the pump then the problem is in the pump.

 

[Sendit6]

So here’s the sitch: Turned out to be as simple as bypassing the timer, which was bad. Disconnected the 2 wires that connected the timer box and wall switch. Once done, pump pump started right up.

So we need a new timer, which I likely won’t use anyhow, but since it’s still under warranty best practice would say to have a new one in place, and reconnect the wires.

Another interesting morsel, he took off the back plate of the pump housing to test the capacitor, and it was fine, but this part was cracked. He put some electrical tape between it and the end housing plate so it wouldn’t touch and short it out. He said it would run as normal the way it is, but it would, again, be best practice to replace the part.

So I need to tell the pool store that I don’t need to warranty the pump, I just need this part replaced.

 

[ajw22]

I think you will find that part is not available and you need to replace the entire motor or pump.