PSI shot up after backwashing

If you can get a stick/rod…..secure a long drywall screw to it with duct tape/ electrical tape. Screw the rod/screw into the piston piece enough that it will come out when you pull up the rod.
 
If you cut the pipe on the dotted line (leave about 1" or so, but no less), would that give you enough access to de-wedge the culprit, or pull it out through there?

Then you could just glue the cut pipe back together with a PVC coupler.

Of course, if you cannot buy just what is broken, and have to replace that whole valve assembly, then all these ideas and the efforts are moot. See what can be replaced first, then make a plan.

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This is what I was getting at, and these may or may not be the exact parts, and may or may not be the best prices:

Here's the guts, for $60:

But the entire assembly is only $90:

The first is not OEM, the second looks to be. There's the labor of replacing the entire assembly to consider, but it's really only a few PVC welds to do. I dunno, I'd be tempted to replace the whole thing to new condition, considering it's old enough to have broken. Vs just sliding in a new push-pull gizmo. Hmmm. Just thinking out loud.
 
The first is not OEM, the second looks to be. There's the labor of replacing the entire assembly to consider, but it's really only a few PVC welds to do. I dunno, I'd be tempted to replace the whole thing to new condition, considering it's old enough to have broken. Vs just sliding in a new push-pull gizmo. Hmmm. Just thinking out loud.
I would too. The connection to the heater is easy. I'd rebuild from the pump to the filter, and use a high temp union on the pump.
 
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I would too. The connection to the heater is easy. I'd rebuild from the pump to the filter, and use a high temp union on the pump. I'd also consider adding a diverter between the pump and the filter, so I didn't have to backwash if I wanted to pump to waste.
See, I'm with you. Why make it easy when you can make it hard!? ;) Additionally, I'd be tempted to upsize to 2" where I could, to get rid of some reducers, and even use some sweep 90s, all in anticipation of the new pump that will someday get installed (with 2" fittings). It looks to be 1.5" to the pool and back, so this is all somewhat Overkill, but that's my middle name.
 
Oh I wish I had all of everyone’s knowledge and skills that have responded! I think I sadly will have to call the pool repair people $$$ 😢.

I really do appreciate the suggestions offered and all your help.
 
Oh I wish I had all of everyone’s knowledge and skills that have responded! I think I sadly will have to call the pool repair people $$$ 😢.

I really do appreciate the suggestions offered and all your help.
Pool plumbing repairs are like SCUBA diving. Knowing when not to attempt it is the most important skill of all!
 
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Tell them you want an MPV (multi port valve), and that you want the line from the pump to the filter to have high-temp unions on both ends (Pump and MPV), and that you want a high-temp union on the MPV line to the heater. Heater end already has unions.