Problems with Jandy Aquapure 1400

[wayner]

My pool, and all related equipment are about 6 years old. I did replace the salt generating cell for my Jandy Aquapure 1400 about two years ago from the square model to the circular model. Over the winter it is flushed and cleaned by my pool company. Now it is giving me additional problems. I first noticed a few days ago that it had an error code - service code 121. I inspected the cell and tried mechanically cleaning the cell by scraping away deposits - it wasn't too badly scaled but their was a bit of one buildup on a few of the plates. I put it back in and it was fine for a little while but then the service code 121 returned. Occasionaly I would get service code 120 which appears to be pretty much the same problem. I measured the voltage at the cell and it is too high at 39V - I get the same reading on the test points of the back board.

Today I noticed that it was throwing error codes 125 and 194 - which means cell needs to be cleaned or replaced and cell current is 85% lower than desired and cell voltage above 19V.

Should I clean the cell with acid, despite the fact that it doesn't look too bad? What kind of acid? Will vinegar do?

 

[ping]

Those are error codes for cleaning the cell. You can use vinegar or muriatic acid, the MA should be mixed 1:10 to 1:4 ratio acid to water. Start off with 1:10 ratio and in 10 minutes it should be clean. If not give the mix a little more acid and soak for a few more minutes. If you use vinegar use a 1:4 vinegar to water ratio to start.

Be very careful when you scrape a cell to clean it. You do not want to scrape it with anything metal and it is easiest to use a water/acid mix and it should come out spotless.

 

[wayner]

Thanks - what about vinegar? What ratio of water to vinegar or can I just use straight vinegar and if so what concentration of vinegar should I be looking for?

How long to soak it?

And it didn't look scal;ed very much at all - do you still get this error code even if it isn't very crusty?

I did use a metal knife but only on what didn't come it after using the garden hose and I used a knife since that is all that would fit between the plates.

 

[ping]

Start with a 1:4 vinegar to water ratio and soak for 10 minutes. If the plates do not clean up, double the vinegar and soak for another 10 minutes. I've only used MA to clean a cell and I use 1:6 ratio and the cell was spotless in 10 minutes of soak time.

You do not want to scrape the cell as the coating can easily be damaged which will lead to early cell failure. The cleaning mix will get all the calcium build up off the plates with no scrubbing at all.

 

[wayner]

Perfect, thanks Ping. By the way, I like your golf clubs!

 

[wayner]

Any suggestions on what to use to cap one of the newer circular Aquapure salt cells to facilitate the acid wash? Can you just go to home depot and buy such a cap in the plumbing dept? I now have the circular shaped one which I believe uses different size connectors than the original square shaped cell. And I think these are 2.5" unions - can anyone confirm?

If so would this work? (Although a flat rather than domed cap might make more sense)


Description:

This schedule 40 model is # 448-025 and is compatible with other 2.5 inch schedule 40 PVC fittings and pipe. This is a domed top cap.

 

[ping]

If you can find a cheap cap like that and it screws on it will work. I set mine inside a 5 gallon bucket so if anything spills it goes in to the bucket. You will need to plug 2 of the three ports. I could not find a cap at HD or Lowes that fit and found fittings at my local pool store.

 

[wayner]

The bottom port on mine is permanently capped so I guess I just need to plug one more.

 

[ping]

I'm not sure how that can be as one port is for the water inlet, another is for the sensor, and the last is for the water outlet.

 

[wayner]

Sorry, you're right. I was more thinking that there is no water flow going through the bottom hole. I guess you could keep the sensor plugged in while doing the acid wash but that probably isn't a good idea.

 

[ping]

The sensor needs to be removed when you clean the cell with acid or else you run the risk of damaging it.

 

[wayner]

Actually it turns out that my sensor is connected beside the cell, not on the bottom port. So the bottom port is permanently blocked off. Anyhow I cleaned it with a litre of salt cell cleaner today and so far, which is just a few mins, no error codes. Here is a pic:

 

[wayner]

Well after running for 30 minutes error codes 125 and 194 reappeared. Am I at the stage to consider a new cell? This one was put in two years ago to replace my original one.

 

[ping]

You might want to check all of your electrical connections, the power cord to the cell isn't fully seated on the cell in that picture. You might have been trying to measure the voltage at the cell and forgot to push the cord back down. With the cell being clean and the error codes that it displays, it seems to indicate that the cell is worn out already.

 

[wayner]

I will do that - I am pretty sure that I reattached the power cord properly after cleaning the cell. In the photo it isn't seated properly as I had just measured the voltage.

Does it matter which way that the cord is mounted to the three prongs on the cell?

 

[ping]

The cord can go on either way.

 

[poolguy15]

Cell needs to be replaced. Save yourself some money and go with PLC1400. Use the new sensor you'll get with that kit and cut the cable of your existing sensor and use it as part of your plumbing.

 

[wayner]

What is the advantage of the new sensor? Does the sensor really matter for the generation of salt? As I understand it the sensor measures temperature, salinity and flow. I have at least two other ways of measuring temperature, I can do a test for salinity so isn't flow the only thing that matters, and why does it need that? Does it shut the cell off when there is no flow, such as when the pump shuts down?

It looks like the PLC1400 kit, with sensor and DC cable, is available for as little as $530. So then it definitely makes sense to get the kit with the cables for only $100 more. Amazon.ca has it for $665 Canadian which isn't too bad given exchange the only problem is it is 3-6 weeks to ship.

I am guessing that it is trivial to replace my existing cell since I already have the same size/shape cell? It is just a case of removing one cell, putting in the other and attaching the new cables to the circuit board? The trickiest part may be feeding the cables through the hole in the control unit when I think back to when I replaced the sensor last year.

- - - Updated - - -

Use the new sensor you'll get with that kit and cut the cable of your existing sensor and use it as part of your plumbing.

Why cut the cable? Doesn't it make sense to disconnect the cable and just tie it up to the old sensor. That way I kind of have a back up sensor if my new one dies.

 

[ping]

The sensor is usually the first thing to fail on the Aquapure, so having another sensor is the way to go. The sensor needs to measure the salt level to make sure it is in range for the unit and if it measures that the salt level is not right, the sensor will turn off the cell. Also, if there is not enough flow for the cell to work properly the sensor will shut off the cell. The sensor is a must for the system to generate chlorine from the salt.

Make sure you get the PLC1400 kit with sensor and cable. It will be an easy switch, just plug and play type of thing.

Do not cut the cable, do like you are saying and wrap the cable up and leave the sensor in place just in case you need to use it if a sensor dies on you.

 

[wayner]

I bit the bullet and ordered a PLC 1400 from Amazon.ca. As I mentioned above it is a bit more than getting from Amazon.com or an online shop in the US but at least there are no shipping issues. I paid about US$600 before shipping and taxes.