Problems with Chlorine and Filter

[Mckinley]

Hi Everyone,

New to this so here goes.

Have a slight algea problem upon startup. The pool was clear until I cleaned the bottom and blushed now it's murky bluish white. My pool is in ground 18 x 36. 22000 gals, vinyl liner. I live in the country and a lot of green around the pool. I have a hayward c900 filter which I'm thinking is way too small for my pool. Put filters in and they last an hour until they need to be cleaned. Clean with TSP or cascade and soak overnight and spend a lot of time cleaning and rinsing. This is driving me nuts. Try to use liquid shock as much as possible but for initial shocking this year I use bagged shock from leslies. I've put six bags in and my chlorine level is 0. Stabilizer is less than 5 since opening the pool yesterday. Alkalinity is 80 and ph is 7.2. Can anyone out there give me some advise on dealing with this continual horror of constant issues with clogging filters and getting balance correct to stop the algae issues. Where should I keep my chlorine level during the season? Filters are almost new.

Thanks

 

[Patrick_B]

Welcome to TFP!

I would first suggest Pool School, and begin with the ABC's. Do you have a proper test kit? We need some better numbers as well. How do you get less than 5 on Cya (stabilizer) ?

The Algae can easily be stopped, first with a SLAM, then proper maintenance of the Free Chlorine. Very simple.

 

[tim5055]

First, you don't have a problem with your filter - it's doing exactly what it was designed to do - filter junk out of the water. Now, it may be undersized - that's a different issue.

You have already identified your problem. You have algae in the water. Go to the pool store and they are going to sell you lots of bags of shock and tell you to keep throwing it in. We do things differently around here. We believe in accurate testing and only adding what is necessary to fix the problem.

To follow the pool care methods taught here you need to arm yourself with the knowledge and tools necessary to care for your pool.

The knowledge is condensed in the Pool School link at the top of every page. It is a great community here, but we do ask that you read and try to understand the information being taught. Questions are always welcome and folks will try to direct you and teach you the methods.

The tools are not limited to the brushes, vacuum hoses and other stuff you use around the pool, but include the most important item - one of the recommended test kits. You can buy a kit at a pool store, but again the pool store kits generally won't cut it. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All these kits contain that test while very few other kits do. Think of it this way, do you see a doctor blindly prescribing drugs without seeing the patient or having tests run?

 

[Defgufman]

Welcome to TFP
I ECHO the above. Get the Taylor kit and post your numbers. In a few months, you'll wonder how you ever got suckered into the pool store madness to begin with.

 

[pooldv]

Welcome to TFP!

I will repeat it. The reason your FC is 0 is because you have algae in the pool consuming it. You need to SLAM your pool. There is no way your CYA level is 5 after adding all that shock. Need to start using bleach to chlorinate your pool so you stop adding CYA. Find out what the CYA level is and SLAM it.

Here's how to SLAM Your Pool

 

[ivyleager]

Hi McKinley!

pooldv: The CYA can be that low if calcium hypochlorite shock bags are used. Both pool stores near me had bags of shock out and I noticed they were all cal-hypo. If its a vinyl pool and calcium is low, that's fine to use. I use that to add a little calcium if needed.

My pool size is pretty much the same as yours McKinley. And my initial CYA was zero also, but I didn't know this until my day 4 of SLAM - see my start-up thread here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/91943-Swamp-to-Gorgeous-in-8-days! . I used 2 gal liquid shock/day for 4 days, CL always measuring zero before days end.

Sounds like you're going to have to clean those filters OFTEN! But necessary. Make sure to run the filter 24/7 or as much as possible. Brush to get any clinging algae off the vinyl and into circulation.

Don't worry about the stains yet, rid them after you've cleared the algae. I have to do this every year after opening, metals in water from rusted ladder. Ugh.

Good luck!

 

[pooldv]

pooldv: The CYA can be that low if calcium hypochlorite shock bags are used. Both pool stores near me had bags of shock out and I noticed they were all cal-hypo. If its a vinyl pool and calcium is low, that's fine to use. I use that to add a little calcium if needed.

Right, you are! Thanks for the help!

 

[Mckinley]

I have posted my particulars for my pool in my profile. I have also just purchased the Taylor K2006. Will post

 

[Mckinley]

Here are my numbers

FAC 3
TAC 3
CH 190
CYA 0
TA 100
PH 7.0

 

[tim5055]

I believe that 7.0 is the lowest pH reading on the K-2006 scale, so you may be well below that Get the pH up to 7.2 using Borax, which is available as 20 Mule Team® Borax Natural Laundry Booster. It is sold in the laundry detergent section of most larger grocery stores and some big box stores. Borax is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return.

At the same time you ae working on the pH, you need to get CYA up to about 30

Then it is time to read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.

* CC is 0.5 or lower;
* You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
* The water is clear.

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.