Pressure Concerns.

[EricsPool]

Hi everyone.

I'm concerned about my pressure reading. It stays at 20 PSI under all circumstances. (Unless shut off, then zero)

I removed both of my 3/4 return jets.
I have one skimmer, two main drains,
switching between them also has no effect.
I can switch between my two returns and my two water features, no change when I do that either.
Back washing, then rinsing, no effect.
Gone through two brand new gauges.

I wouldn't be concerned about the 20PSI if the PSI would change under conditions in which it should change.

The only thing I haven't done is open my filter to look inside.

My pool, and equipment was installed/finished late September last year.

Hoping that someone can help me out here, or maybe I'm worrying for nothing?

I've edited this post to add that putting my filter on recirculate, does reduce the pressure to 18.5-19 PSI. A drop of 1-1.5 PSI.

Thanks,

Eric

 

[stevie3x]

personally i would like a little more info. what size / brand model pump , filter do you have what size piping .
how far from the equipment to pool, is there an attatched spa, as you state is the 3/4 " returns directional fittings or the actual size of the pipe ?

pictures would be even better

 

[EricsPool]

Stevie-

I'm not sure why my sig isn't showing. My info was there, most of it.
My pump is a pentair 1 HP. Filter is a Hayward S244T Sand Filter.
All of my piping is 1 1/2.
No spa.
3/4 directional fittings.
Equipment pad is approxiamitly 10ft from water line.

I'm not sure how to post pics.

Thanks,

Eric

 

[EricsPool]

Figured out how to post pics. I was using the mobile site and when I switched to full site there is a button for adding pics.

 

[EricsPool]

Bumping, hoping to get some more help on this so I can rest easy knowing my pool isn't broken!

 

[Texas Splash]

Eric, it would make sense that the pressure would drop a bit when on recirculate as the water is not going through the filter (less resistance). As for staying at a constant pressure (20), that's not necessarily the worst thing at the moment. Normally we expect filter pressure to increase when it needs backwashed or in the unfortunate event there is algae blooming. Do you remember if 20 is your normal "baseline" (clean) pressure? Is your Pentair a single speed? If so, that would make sense as well (1-speed = steady pressure). If it's a 2 speed, I would expect the pressure gauge to drop very low and only show a stead "hard" increased pressure when on high. At least my system reacts that way. Hope some of that is reassuring. Perhaps other suggestions will flow-in as well.

As a last resort, if the pressure seems high to you compared to original install, you can post a full set of water test results so we can see if there's any chemistry issues that may be effecting your pressure.

 

[EricsPool]

Hi Pat,

I want to say that my original pressure was around 13-15, but I'm not sure. I can't recall correctly unfortunately
Yes, my pentair is a single speed pump. I haven't tested my water in a few days, outside of my pH and chlorine levels, my pH is right around 7.4, but for unknown reasons about four weeks ago my chlorine levels have gone through the roof, testing at almost 10 ppm. I left my SWG off for a week and a half to no avail, there was almost no change. I decided to turn my salt water generator back on and just turned it down. I'm assuming my chlorine level spiked due to the cold water, lack of use, and quite a few cloudy rainy days lately.

Eric

 

[Texas Splash]

Very good. Well, this might be the time of season where you do a few things to start-off on a good note:
- Do another thorough backwash to record a good baseline/clean pressure
- Run a full set of test results with your TF-100 or Taylor K-2006; if there is any doubt about elevated CC or algae, do an overnight test per the Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) page.
- Monitor that pressure for a couple days; if the pressure spikes-up quickly, it's another indication something may be blooming causing the psi to increase

If the gauge stays steady for a while based on the recorded baseline/clean pressure, all should be good. Just for everyone's benefit here reviewing your thread (and your benefit of course), consider posting those test results just so we can clearly rule-out any other potential issues.

 

[EricsPool]

I use test strips for daily use, primarily just to make sure things are ball park. I use my chlorine and ph drop test weekly to keep those in check. Chlorine is off the chart. (Chlorine only goes to 5ppm on the drop test)
About once every two to three weeks I'll go by the pool store to compare.
Not having any water clarity issues, the pool looks fantastic.
I need to probably get the k2006 or tf100, was just waiting til my other drop test ran out.
I'll backwash again, I just did a few days ago after replumbing my system for the heat pump addition.
I'll also read the literature on FC Loss.

Thank tou you again Pat,

Eric

 

[Texas Splash]

Something you can do while using your old test stuff and before purchasing an entire kit, you can consider ordering just the FAS-DPD testing portion from here: FAD-DPD Test. At least with this, you will be able to get pinpoint accurate FC and CC testing at various levels well above 5, and certainly much more accurate than any test strip or pool store. The FAS-DPD is the cornerstone of FC testing here at TFP. You won't regret it, and you'll have great peace of mind. Have a nice evening.

 

[EricsPool]

Thanks again, sounds like exactly what I need.
Also, I'm going to pull the trigger on the TF-100 kit.

Appeeciate your help Pat, have a good night.

 

[duraleigh]

Thanks again, sounds like exactly what I need.
Also, I'm going to pull the trigger on the TF-100 kit.

Don't order the FAS/DPD and the TF-100.....the TF-100 includes that test and is all you need. You'll never regret it.

 

[stevie3x]

I agree with what Texas Splash said, while 20 psi is not un-workable [ most all filters will withstand psi up to 50 psi] you definitely don't want your psi to get that high,
you mentioned that you reciently plumbed in a heat pump , perhaps the plumbing could be a source of your psi ?

 

[EricsPool]

Thanks Dave, I think I'll enjoy doing the water testing with my new TF-100

Hi Stevie, my PSI didn't change at all after plumbing the heat pump... Maybe 20PSI is just my normal operating pressure. I'll keep a close eye on it though, if anything changes I'll post an update.

thanks,
Eric

 

[Caco]

I would suggest a deep clean of your sand filter.
I deep clean mine at the start of every season just so I know I am starting off on the right foot