Prepping for OnBalance BiCarb Startup - Chemicals & Tools?

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ngsm13

ngsm13

Bronze Supporter
May 17, 2021
106
Cincinnati, OH
Pool Size
19500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello Friends,

I have my TF100 Test Kit, I've read and re-read and re-read the OB Startup posts. I've printed out the method/laminate card. And I just did my first water test as it's coming out of my hose. I also purchased the PH Meter from TFTestKits in preparation. (Does it need to be calibrated out of the box?).

Any accessories/tools I should purchase? (Brushes, etc? any recos?)

Gunite with DiamondBrite Cool Blue Finish

Fill Water:
FC= 1
CC= 0.5
PH = 7.1
TA = 270
CH = 200

I am estimating ~20k gallons for my pool. So, doing the math it looks like: (20,000/71425)*(500-470) = 8.4lbs

1) Am I wrong, or does it seem like my fill water is near okay? I still plan to add the bicarbonate, but seems small over 20k gallons.
2) My pH is 'Below 8.3' as requested, but seems significantly below. When/How do I make my adjustments for ideal?

It's been great reading here, thanks for the help!
 
Have you read….

A Bicarb Start-up guide for TFP members

It is an unfortunate fact that most tap water used to fill swimming pools is often soft, aggressive, and somewhat harmful to a new plaster surface. Therefore, in order to not damage a new plaster surface, the tap water needs to be “balanced” (meaning for new plaster, the CSI should be at least...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Get a higher quality pH meter that can be properly calibrated. I suggest the Apera pH20 or pH60 with all three calibrating solutions 4, 7, & 10, and calibrate it regularly.
 
ajw22 said:
Have you read….

A Bicarb Start-up guide for TFP members

It is an unfortunate fact that most tap water used to fill swimming pools is often soft, aggressive, and somewhat harmful to a new plaster surface. Therefore, in order to not damage a new plaster surface, the tap water needs to be “balanced” (meaning for new plaster, the CSI should be at least...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Get a higher quality pH meter that can be properly calibrated. I suggest the Apera pH20 or pH60 with all three calibrating solutions 4, 7, & 10, and calibrate it regularly.
Click to expand...
Yes, I've read that at least a dozen times. What I do not have, is experience :eek:... I'm a VERY new guy :D This is my first ever pool... and I was looking for a bit of coaching/input on what my numbers are looking like, and if my plan is okay?

Concerns/Unknowns to me:
1) My TA is quite a bit higher out of the tap than any tutorials have shown...
2) My pH being a tiny bit lower, is this okay? As long as I monitor during fill to remain less than 8.2 as instructed?

Maybe @onBalance can provide some perspective?

Thanks!
 
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Your water is fine. No water is perfect. Just follow to described process and keep your CSI between +0.3-+0.5. That is the key to the process.
 
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The pH of the tap water is a little low, but I think it is best to not make any adjustment to your tap water when filling.
The pH will rise quickly and as Allen stated above, the tape water is fine for filling as is, and to just monitor the CSI to be around +0.3 to +0.5. I see no need to add any sodium bicarbonate either. 470 ppm (combined TA and CH) is good and will achieve good results.
Please report your first test results when the pool is full. Thanks.

You might want to read this article below.

How to Ensure a Quality Pool Plastering Job

For pool owners, pool builders, remodeling companies, and pool plasterers that want the best chance to obtain a quality and discoloration-free pool plaster job (including white, color, and quartz aggregate pools), the link below is to an article in WaterShapes (a pool industry publication) that...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
  • Love
Reactions: ngsm13
onBalance said:
The pH of the tap water is a little low, but I think it is best to not make any adjustment to your tap water when filling.
The pH will rise quickly and as Allen stated above, the tape water is fine for filling as is, and to just monitor the CSI to be around +0.3 to +0.5. I see no need to add any sodium bicarbonate either. 470 ppm (combined TA and CH) is good and will achieve good results.
Please report your first test results when the pool is full. Thanks.

You might want to read this article below.

How to Ensure a Quality Pool Plastering Job

For pool owners, pool builders, remodeling companies, and pool plasterers that want the best chance to obtain a quality and discoloration-free pool plaster job (including white, color, and quartz aggregate pools), the link below is to an article in WaterShapes (a pool industry publication) that...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the replies, appreciate your input and setting a new guy straight.

One other concern, is my fill rate. It looks at if I can only achieve ~6gpm... and at 20k gallons that is over 2-days of fill time!! Is this an issue at all?

Thanks.
 
If the weather is hot and dry, taking two days or more to fill the pool is too long. But if the weather is moderate and humid, then taking that long won't hurt. Perhaps, bring hoses from your neighbors to fill faster if needed. Tenting is also a way to protect the plaster when it is hot.
But, try to wait a few hours before starting to fill. That will allow the deep end bowl to harden sufficiently which is finished last in the entire process. After that, fill as fast as possible.
 
Arrange for two or three 5,000 - 7,000 gallon water trucks to deliver water to fill your pool.
 
onBalance said:
If the weather is hot and dry, taking two days or more to fill the pool is too long. But if the weather is moderate and humid, then taking that long won't hurt. Perhaps, bring hoses from your neighbors to fill faster if needed. Tenting is also a way to protect the plaster when it is hot.
But, try to wait a few hours before starting to fill. That will allow the deep end bowl to harden sufficiently which is finished last in the entire process. After that, fill as fast as possible.
Click to expand...
Understood, I'll start that conversation now.

Seems my pH meter was NOT calibrated. Got an electronic/automated reading from a Pool Store down the road that offers it and my numbers were nearly right except pH. Plan to pickup some Muriatic Acid to have on hand during startup, and monitor regularly.

How to I get my LSI to drift slightly down?

Fill Water:
FC= 0
CC= 0
PH = 8
TA = 210
CH = 250
CYA = 55
LSI = 0.6

ajw22 said:
Arrange for two or three 5,000 - 7,000 gallon water trucks to deliver water to fill your pool.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, not really feasible in my area it seems. I called 3-places and they have 2,000 gallon trucks and the pricing is exorbitant!

On county tap water, I can fill 20k gallons for ~$120!
 
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onBalance said:
The pH of the tap water is a little low, but I think it is best to not make any adjustment to your tap water when filling.
The pH will rise quickly and as Allen stated above, the tape water is fine for filling as is, and to just monitor the CSI to be around +0.3 to +0.5. I see no need to add any sodium bicarbonate either. 470 ppm (combined TA and CH) is good and will achieve good results.
Please report your first test results when the pool is full. Thanks.

You might want to read this article below.

How to Ensure a Quality Pool Plastering Job

For pool owners, pool builders, remodeling companies, and pool plasterers that want the best chance to obtain a quality and discoloration-free pool plaster job (including white, color, and quartz aggregate pools), the link below is to an article in WaterShapes (a pool industry publication) that...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
So, reading here again. I want to PREVENT than from doing an ACID WASH prior to fill. Leaving the finish to be polished over the longer term to expose aggregate it looks like?

I'll need to run out and talk to the foreman again to double check this part.
 
ngsm13 said:
So, reading here again. I want to PREVENT than from doing an ACID WASH prior to fill. Leaving the finish to be polished over the longer term to expose aggregate it looks like?

I'll need to run out and talk to the foreman again to double check this part.
Click to expand...

So, the saga continued.

The owner of the PB Company, said that I'm the customer and they'll do what I want. So, on the acid wash and 6-hour delay to fill... it's up to me. But if I don't follow their standard procedure, they will require my response in writing to accept liability for the finish.

So, we compromised with a very light acid was and neutralize, with pump in deep end drain. Waiting 2-3 hours and the hoses are lined up to fill.

Whew, it's been a whirlwind day. But getting close to turning the hoses on.

I also have 5-hoses set to go for filling now.




Thanks for all the input, and feedback.
 
Last edited:
ajw22 said:
Have you read….

A Bicarb Start-up guide for TFP members

It is an unfortunate fact that most tap water used to fill swimming pools is often soft, aggressive, and somewhat harmful to a new plaster surface. Therefore, in order to not damage a new plaster surface, the tap water needs to be “balanced” (meaning for new plaster, the CSI should be at least...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Get a higher quality pH meter that can be properly calibrated. I suggest the Apera pH20 or pH60 with all three calibrating solutions 4, 7, & 10, and calibrate it regularly.
Click to expand...
This Apera pH20 meter is AWESOME. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
QQ to both @onBalance and @ajw22...

I notice it says to use dichlor or trichlor first few weeks. I'm worried about accumulation of CYA, and I've been using about 1GALLON of liquid chlorine per day.

Is this okay, typical? Should I get some tabs for a bit?

Thanks.
 

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