preparing for full water turn-over

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something is definitely eating the chlorine...whether that's paint or other organics i have no idea. i tested the chlorine after i put two gallons in just to try to speed this up earlier, and FC was at 18.5 with the pool out of direct sunlight for the day (sun was still up, but behind the house). just tested again, and it's down to 15.

basically i'm trying to determine if i'm better off just starting over with new water before i put the $150 worth of salt and conditioner i bought today in the pool. i don't want to do that now to just have to go out again and get another $150 worth of chemicals to put in the pool after i have to dump the water and re-fill.
 
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
What test kit are you using?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp

Also post results from your fill water
pH
TA
CH
No need for the others on ypur fill water.
 
proavia said:
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
What test kit are you using?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp

Also post results from your fill water
pH
TA
CH
No need for the others on ypur fill water.
Click to expand...
fill water is in my signature.

I have a TF-100. the only tests I've done so far are FC (15 as of 11:30 last night, will do another test shortly this morning), CC 0.5, PH 8.2, TA 110. Water temp is in the low to mid 80s.

I haven't tested CH yet but it's in the neighborhood of my fill water since it's all brand new water except for the unknown shock the painter added and whatever paint was dumped in.
 
Post your test results as shown below to make them easier to read.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp

Placing them on one line makes them much more difficult to read/review.
Have you checked your fill water recently or are those numbers from 2014?
 
proavia said:
Post your test results as shown below to make them easier to read.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp

Placing them on one line makes them much more difficult to read/review.
Have you checked your fill water recently or are those numbers from 2014?
Click to expand...

FC 15 (less now since it has been in the sun since sunrise, will do a full test after 9am)
CC 0.5
pH 8.2
TA 110
CH - whatever the fill water is
CYA 0
water temp - low 80s, not sure exact number no thermometer in the pool at the moment

last time i checked the fill water was last summer. about 11 months ago.
 
Fill water parameters can change - suggest you check them again.

If some form of shock was added or paint is in the water, CH can easily be affected - so test it and report here.
And since an acid wash was just completed, there could be additional plaster dust and CH from that too.

pH result will read falsely high when FC is above 10.
 

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proavia said:
Fill water parameters can change - suggest you check them again.

If some form of shock was added or paint is in the water, CH can easily be affected - so test it and report here.
And since an acid wash was just completed, there could be additional plaster dust and CH from that too.

pH result will read falsely high when FC is above 10.
Click to expand...

when i asked how often to check fill water last year, the consensus seemed to be that it doesn't often change much. i'll run another test just to be safe.

good point about the pH reading, i had forgotten about that. i'm highly annoyed with all of this right now and it's making my head spin...i paid over $5k to have the pool acid washed and rocks painted, and now i'm dealing with this Crud. i paid someone else to do all of this because i didn't want to have to do it myself, i wasn't expecting to be given back a swamp after the work was done and now have to do additional work to get the water clear again...
 
crackers8199 said:
when i asked how often to check fill water last year, the consensus seemed to be that it doesn't often change much. i'll run another test just to be safe.

good point about the pH reading, i had forgotten about that. i'm highly annoyed with all of this right now and it's making my head spin...i paid over $5k to have the pool acid washed and rocks painted, and now i'm dealing with this Crud. i paid someone else to do all of this because i didn't want to have to do it myself, i wasn't expecting to be given back a swamp after the work was done and now have to do additional work to get the water clear again...
Click to expand...
You may get the same results or may not. Always best to have a current baseline to go from.

My CH and TA change during different times of the year, based on where my city is pulling the water from.
 
proavia said:
You may get the same results or may not. Always best to have a current baseline to go from.

My CH and TA change during different times of the year, based on where my city is pulling the water from.
Click to expand...

fill water in signature updated, the numbers have changed. amazingly, i measured FC at zero (which seemed odd to me but i even checked it twice to be sure...it's zero).

here's a full set of numbers as of 5 minutes ago when i ran these:

FC 8 (so it has come down from 18.5 just before sunset last night, to 15 around midnight, to 8 now)
CC 0.5
pH 8.4+ (it was off the charts maroon)
TA 120
CH 200
CYA 0 (as expected)
 
Drop the pH to 7.2 and SLAM Process
The important element of the SLAM Process is the MAINTAIN part. Dose at least 4 times daily if you can.

Be sure to check behind your light, the skimmer/skimmer weir door and any ladders or other items in the pool for algae.
 
Newdude said:
This is a GREAT question. 40% of 0 is……. :ROFLMAO:

You add immediately to get to 30 and SLaM from there. You need the CYA to protect/buffer all the SLaM FC.
Click to expand...

argh. like i said i was hoping to avoid adding anything else until i make sure i can clear the water without a complete drain and re-fill (to avoid wasting any of the chemicals i just bought yesterday). i guess i have no choice but to go to 30, at least that won't take too much conditioner...
 
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crackers8199 said:
i guess i have no choice but to go to 30, at least that won't take too much conditioner...
Click to expand...
You can’t test under 20 and you can barely sometimes tell it’s 20. Besides, with no CYA the sun will burn off whatever you add in an hour or so.

I feel you, But you need the CYa.
 
Newdude said:
You can’t test under 20 and you can barely sometimes tell it’s 20. Besides, with no CYA the sun will burn off whatever you add in an hour or so.

I feel you, But you need the CYa.
Click to expand...

i think part of the frustration is like i said spending so much money on this and still having to do even more work myself now to get the pool back into the shape i expect. for $5k+ i would have expected them to give me a pool that was sparkling and clear, not this.
 
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anyway, ph is down to 7.2 now...just re-tested after adding acid. adding 40 oz of conditioner which should get me to 30 CYA according to pool math...and we'll go from there.

edit: although, now i continue to think i'm a moron...adding that much CYA is going to bring my pH down 0.6 as well. is that going to be an issue?
 

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