preparing for full water turn-over

[mknauss]

In your area, I would budget for twice that, and then be surprised if less.

 

[crackers8199]

In your area, I would budget for twice that, and then be surprised if less.

the one thing we have going for us that may keep the cost down is that it's a small pool...only 85 linear feet around the circumference. the guy we had do the acid wash thought it was much bigger from the pictures the first time he came over to take measurements...

 

[crackers8199]

after ten days, finally, SLAM complete. OCLT passed, CC 0.5, water is crystal clear.

thanks everyone for your help to this point. going to do another full water test this afternoon and see where all of the numbers are and will be back for guidance on where to go from here...

 

[crackers8199]

here are my current numbers:

FC 4
CC 0.5
pH 8.2
TA 140
CH 225
CYA 30
salt 1000
temp roughly 85

obviously I need to get some acid in to bring the pH down now that I can reliably test it again, but where else do I go from here? TA is much higher than it was with my old water, with the old water I was consistently around 70-80. also, the CYA number is kinda a guess...I'm still terrible at reading that test. it looked like 30 and that's what pool math says I should be at for how much conditioner I added, so that's what I recorded.

also, a bit confused by the salt number since I haven't added any yet...

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

You'll want to bring down your TA. Adding acid lowers your pH and TA. High TA will cause your pH to rise quickly. Aeration expedites pH rise. When pH level gets to 7.8, add enough MA to bring it down to 7.2. repeat the process until your TA is forced down to range. Then adjust your numbers and monitor CSI. Keeping CSI between -0.30 and 0.0 will help mitigate scaling.

To aerate, use your spa spillover. Set the valves you get good flow from the spa to the pool. You don't mention what your CYA is. Make sure you don't allow FC levels to drop below the minimum FC for you CYA level according to the FC/CYA Levels. Set up your SWG for a gain of about 4 ppm for day. Chances are you'll lose 3 to 4 ppm per day this time of year.

 

[crackers8199]

You'll want to bring down your TA. Adding acid lowers your pH and TA. High TA will cause your pH to rise quickly. Aeration expedites pH rise. When pH level gets to 7.8, add enough MA to bring it down to 7.2. repeat the process until your TA is forced down to range. Then adjust your numbers and monitor CSI. Keeping CSI between -0.30 and 0.0 will help mitigate scaling.

To aerate, use your spa spillover. Set the valves you get good flow from the spa to the pool. You don't mention what your CYA is. Make sure you don't allow FC levels to drop below the minimum FC for you CYA level according to the FC/CYA Levels. Set up your SWG for a gain of about 4 ppm for day. Chances are you'll lose 3 to 4 ppm per day this time of year.

CYA is 30, sorry. I mentioned it in the post but forgot to put it at the top with the other numbers. I know I'll need to bring that up when I turn the SWG back on, I still need to add salt first for that though obviously...aiming for 80 for CYA.

as for the TA, my spillover is always on when the pump runs because I don't have automation yet. that's on my list of things I want to get added later this year or next, but we are still budgeting for it given that we just spent $5k on the rocks and acid wash.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

The TA of your fill water plays a role in how quickly your TA will rise or drop. You can test it if you wish. I assume you did not add MA during your SLAMagranza, which would explain why your TA has not dropped.

 

[crackers8199]

The TA of your fill water plays a role in how quickly your TA will rise or drop. You can test it if you wish. I assume you did not add MA during your SLAMagranza, which would explain why your TA has not dropped.

I have my fill water stats in my signature. I did add acid once during the slam, but that was all.

 

[crackers8199]

@mknauss as of this morning i'm already at 225 for CH. given we were only aiming for 250 to start, would you still recommend i add CaCl to raise it a slight amount to 250 or 300, or just leave it as is?

also, keeping in mind i'm going to have to lower the water a bit and add fill water for the painter to come back and fix the waterline that is already peeling and discoloring...

 

[mknauss]

As long as you let your TA and pH ride a bit high for awhile, evaporation will raise your CH by 75ppm or so by the end of this swim season.

 

[crackers8199]

As long as you let your TA and pH ride a bit high for awhile, evaporation will raise your CH by 75ppm or so by the end of this swim season.

what should i aim for with the TA? is 80 safe?

 

[mknauss]

See what the CSI is. Keep it above -0.3

 

[crackers8199]

See what the CSI is. Keep it above -0.3

this morning i'm at 0.72, so i know i've got some work to do. i'll mess with the numbers in pool math and see where i need to be to get the CSI in check. thanks!