Preliminary specs for a new build

[texasmax]

All-

Hello! We're moving again- we'll be gutting a house, and having all the fun of designing it like it was brand new construction. Still in Dallas. There's a decent-sized backyard that we're going to pulling a very large tree out of, cleaning it all up, and putting in a new pool. Right now, it's very early, and we're trying to figure out how to orient it (we're pretty much set on a rectangle in the 18x30 to 20x35 range, no spa after dealing with it in two different homes) in regards to landscaping. We're having the home builder (that we know and trust and have had other family members use) GC the pool (because #1 he can tightly control gas, electric, etc. thru the yard and #2 so we can roll it into the construction loan!). I'm trying to gather the specs on things I know we're going to want that we'll submit to PBs- less about surface/decking/coping (currently undecided) and more about equipment. Yes I've spent countless hours going thru threads here, including the IntelliCenter mega-thread (more on that later). If we're doing 20x35, 4' shallow end to 7' deep end at the largest, with a constant slope, we're talking 28-29k gallons at the most. Here's what I'm thinking:

Filter: Pentair CCP-520. I've had both DE and cartridge; I don't think I'll be missing anything going large cartridge. Especially head loss on a 6-way multiport. I won't pre-plumb for DE waste to contain the costs.
Pump: Pentair Intelliflo VS 011028
Chlorination: IC60. If we end up under 22k, then I'll bump down to an IC40. I've most recently been running liquid bleach on a Stenner, and, while I do all the work myself and enjoy it, I'll probably be happier handling bulk salt vs. dumping chlorine bottles. And it seems like the popular opinion here has swayed very much towards salt in recent years and I trust all of you Zinc anode(s).
Automation: IntelliCenter with Intellichlor integrated. I've never had automation, think I'll enjoy it, and will still manually handle all the other balancing. There won't be a spa, no water features, just a heater and lights. Still want to spend more time on the Intellicenter mega-thread but think I won't have any problems with what I'm running. Though I don't mind hacking away.
Unions on all equipment and Neverlube valves.

2 skimmers (middle of each of the short ends)? Plumbed separately, valved at the pad
8 return jets?
Pool lights facing away from house; Pentair microbrite nicheless

I've got all the contract and construction tip stickies ready to go for when we get to that point.

Thank for reading!

 

[HermanTX]

You have a great start and obviously a long time member so you have noted all the latest and greatest technologies.
Once you get some graphics - post them for all to see.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Max,

I think that 8 returns are about twice what you need... Keep in mind the more you have the faster you will need to run the pump to get a decent flow out of each one.

One on each wall should be fine.. I'd look at the skimmer location again.. I like to see them on adjacent walls and not at opposite ends..

I have a simple pool with automation and love it... Well worth the extra cost in my mind.

If you go with a SWCG and automation, then it only makes sense to have the the SWCG's power supply inside the automation system.. If you go with the EasyTouch, you will need ScreenLogic. If you go with the newer (and better) IntelliCenter, then it comes with the external control built into the automation.

I like the pump and the filter...

If I were to build my pool again, I would not install any main drains.. I don't use the ones I have now and they are just not necessary..

I would buy a robot cleaner rather than a suction side or pressure side cleaner.

Good luck with your new project,

Jim R.

 

[texasmax]

Greatness- thank you! Will update the thread when I've got something to show.

 

[Newdude]

Hey Max and Welcome !! Jim has you well covered above. I’ll suggest you stay with the IC60 either way. It’s roughly 20% more expensive than the IC40 but will last 50% longer. It will also easily overcome the high demand part of the season for you in Texas. If you are at a 2:1 ratio of gallons to SWG rating there may be times you need to have 100% run times and some of those times that may not be enough. The IC60 will give you more options and another $200 is nothing in the grand scheme of things of your build.

 

[texasmax]

So here's a preliminary drawing of the space I'm working with, with initial thoughts on placement and size (might go a little wider; the home builder likes the length where it is so the top end is aligned). Below and to the right of the blue lines will be decking of some sort, and those red things are doors. Pool equipment will be somewhere along the top fence (behind which is the alley- so when I'm spraying the cartridges down the water has somewhere to go). Up is approximately SSW, so I'll have some decent shade from the part of the house to the right (single-story). Nothing really to see here other than keeping the thread updated- should have something good to show in the next week or two.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Hey Max - I'm having a tough time visualizing the fire pit/waterfall area. Will that be raised? My only concern would be blocking the view from the sunroom if it is raised, both from visual aspect but also safety if you have young ones. I would consider moving any sort of raised wall to the far left or back.

Also, will you have some sort of fence running to the left of the driveway to separate the driveway portion of the yard from the pool area?

Lastly, I would see if you could do more house additions in the project. I only see 5 on the drawing, and that is only half of the house

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

 

[JJ_Tex]

One other thing, I would extend the decking at the bottom left of the drawing (next to the blue line) to line up with either the pool coping or the house extension to the far left.

 

[texasmax]

Fire pit- it's totally up in the air right now. Our home builder threw it in because we wanted the decked area to be the "socialization" area. Good callout on the height and obstructing the view. Ground level outside is ~4 inches below the house level, and youngest is 12, but definitely something to think about!

On or around the 24' line will be some sort of wrought-iron fence or the like. There will probably be something on the left side as well as it will have a 5' wide pass-thru to the front of the house.

Will think about location of the bottom blue line decking boundary too as well- we spent a lot more time thinking about other areas.

Appreciate the feedback!

It's a total gut and rebuild and we're adding on a second story on the front half of the house that's outside of view No other extensions besides that!

 

[texasmax]

Months (and months) later, we're finally about to get started on the house, and just got some preliminary plans back. Have a lot to work thru on equipment (PB is a Jandy shop). For the time being, here are some structural details I hope you'd all give me some feedback on (we're looking at 18'x35', will go 8-8.5' at the deep end for jumping from a raised wall but no diving board):

- steel structure shall include a 4 Bar Box Beam with 1/2" steel rebar. walls and floors will have 3/8" steel rebar on 10" centers with alternates in the floor, 3/8' rebar deck dowels, and 3"-4" of gravel base flowable fill
- gunite (concrete shell) used will be pneumatically applied. bond beam will be continuous around perimeter and a minimum of 12" wide and 8" deep. walls and floors will be a minimum of 6"
- steel upgrade- 1/2" steel rebar on 10" centers with 5" alternates in significant stress points in walls and floor. beam to have 5 bars (1/2") steel in continuous pool beam
- gunite upgrade- beam is 18"x10" with keyed notch for deck. walls and floor thickness to be a minimum of 8" thick. covers a minimum of 1"-12" thick.

Thanks!