PPM measure differences, Taylor, Pool store and SWG

[MrMike]

Pool store said 2600
New Taylor kit k-1766 says 3700ish consistently a week apart
Pentair SWG was saying 2800, tech replaced sensor and now says 3050.

Taylor kits creates some 'chunks' when mixing drops. Is this normal/expected? I'm wondering if the kit is bad?
I read SWG measures aren't very accurate, +-500ppm??

Just run with it, replace k-1766 or ask pentair to check swg again?

Thanks.

 

[jeffchap]

Drop tests are generally more accurate than digital testers. But as long as your SWG isn't complaining about low salt and is making chlorine, don't sweat it too much.

 

[MrMike]

I was worried it may get worse and/or require more salt than normal to operate. I read it's more efficient with actual higher ppm. Would that effect overall lifespan either way, or is it a total # output over the cells life regardless?

 

[ajw22]

Believe your Taylor K-1766 salt test.

Be skeptical of all pool store tests.

SWG salinity reading can be off due to temperature thermistor in cell being off. Never add salt based on cell reading.

3600ppm is optimum level for IntelliChlor. The Taylor test says you are there.

 

[jedigrover]

I never trust the SWG. Especially since mine is a Hayward and doesn't have a separate conductivity sensor.
I check the actual salt level 2 ways:
- Most often, I use a salt meter, specifically this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BXDTSXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- I occasionally (once a month) cross-check the meter's reading with the Taylor K-1766 test.
- About every six months, I also check the meter against a 3000ppm standard saline solution. In 2 years, I've not had to re-calibrate the meter. It is spot-on with the Taylor test.

I had the meter and the standard solution to check calibration before I got the Taylor test (mostly out of curiosity to see if there was a difference).
The meter is much, much faster than the Taylor test and also gives me the temp of my water sample, which is handy for plugging into PoolMath.
The Taylor test is a good reference, but it takes a lot more time to run.
Yes, the Taylor test makes a precipitate. I found it leaves a ring in the vial & I have to clean the vial.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Mike,

Your salt cell has an accuracy of +/-500 ppm. It is more of a guess than an actual salt reading. If it reports anything close to the actual salt level be happy.

The Taylor kit is +/- 200 ppm. The chunks are normal. Are you using a smart-stir or similar device? If not, it makes it much harder to be accurate. When using the Taylor kit, and the speed stir, as you approach the actual level, you will see the color flash to brown, and then it will immediately go back to milky. The very first time it changes color and stays that way, you stop counting.. Unlike some other tests, you do not keep trying to get the color darker.

The Pool Store is like rolling dice, every roll is almost always a different number.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[wireform]

 

[JamesW]

New Taylor kit k-1766 says 3700ish consistently a week apart

The multiplier is 200, so it took 18.5 drops?

 

[MrMike]

It turned a little orange on 18th drop, then full turned salmon red on 19, so I assume it in the middle-ish level between 18-19.
I'm just swirling the tube, so no stick. Instructions just says to swirl.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Instructions just says to swirl.

Mike,

Kind of what the speed-stir does for you. And once it changes color you don't keep adding drops to make it go to "full Salmon Red". I suspect your Taylor reading are 200 to 400 too high.

Thanks,

Jim R.