Possible CYA @ 300-320 ppm. Need help.

fidn37484

Member
May 19, 2024
22
inland california
Im going to get a pool service to confirm. With as good or better testing then reagents not sure there is? I used the taylor 2006 cya test had to dilute 1 part sample to 3 parts bottled water. Then I multiply the reading by 4. It gets me 300 maybe (eye test plays tricks on you) 320 for sure black dot is not visible. Currently I am dropping the ph from 7.9 to 7.4 might go to 7.2. Prepping it for waste. the pool water algae is greenish swamp like but it did get clearer dropping the ph and I can barely make out the drains now. Calciums high 700 ppm and increasing maybe that I’ve dropped the ph unless the hardness tests accounts for the insoluble and soluble calcium in the sample.

I’m not putting chlorine in it cuz if the cya is right then I don’t think it’s cost prohibitive to run 5-7.5% FC of 300 cya to sanitize the pool. 15 to 23 ppm of free chlorine to do the same job as 2 - 4 ppm @ 30 - 50 cya. Is my understanding on this correct?

Thanks for your time.
 
Welcome. Your CYA makes maintaining your pool nearly impossible. Best to drain as much as you possibly can and refill. Any challenges there?
Not that I’m aware of 11000 gal pool. I want to use a wet vac but that will probably burn out. So might rent a sump pump. My understanding is under 85 F outside temp is ideal for concrete/gunite/pebble tech/ plaster to minimize cracking. Turn off the auto leveler so pool doesn’t keep filling back up and have at her. Run it out to the gutters. If I’m missing anything else do tell.
 
Rent a sump pump from Home Depot or buy one at Harbor Freight or Amazon.

Let's ping @Newdude to ask him to post a link to a decent one on Amazon.

Inland California - as in IE or Central Valley? Add the city to your profile.
 
If I’m missing anything else do tell.
The root cause of the extremely high CYA was likely routine use of stabilized chlorine. After the drain & fill, switch to LC or SWCG. You can rent a high speed pump to make the draining process fast.
 
The root cause of the extremely high CYA was likely routine use of stabilized chlorine. After the drain & fill, switch to LC or SWCG. You can rent a high speed pump to make the draining process fast.
Yeah I think pool service before was using dichlor trichlor products and just wrecked my pool. I remember seeing a floaty with 3-4 pucks in it thought nothing of it. Paying for a pool service to ruin your water sure doesn’t leave a pleasant taste in your mouth. Learning all about pools now and agree on the liquid chlorine, thanks. I’m wondering if I’ll get a lower reading on cya (still need to drain) when I drop the ph more and my water becomes more clear even with algae present it’s noticeable. Only say this cuz it’s visually noticeable and the Taylor cua test is based off a visual depth reading of a black dot. Thoughts?
 
Scoop up a vial of your pool water. Can you see the dot?
Just the pool water by itself yeah. The pool looks green ish swampy in its entirety but when I get a sample almost looks like normal water. I’ll do another cya test for the heck of it ,although it uses quite a bit of reagent, when I get to 7.4 maybe 7.2. I’m thinking instead of it reading 300-320 ppm cya It might show lower like 280. Is this known to affect cya readings? Balanced clearer water vs more turbid?
 
The more you dilute the sample the less accurate it becomes anyways. You'll need to drain at least 90% of the volume.
Yeah I didn’t know my reading would have more error, Taylor doesn’t mention this on their end when they say to dilute. At 90 percent I’m just going to drain the whole thing. Might do or probably should do a chlorine wash after drained cuz of the algae. Might just use bleach instead cheaper weaker but I think it will kill it on surface.
 

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Yeah I didn’t know my reading would have more error, Taylor doesn’t mention this on their end when they say to dilute. At 90 percent I’m just going to drain the whole thing. Might do or probably should do a chlorine wash after drained cuz of the algae. Might just use bleach instead cheaper weaker but I think it will kill it on surface.
Actually I think chlorine is cheaper than bleach. I’ll just dilute and make bleach
 
Chlorine and bleach are basically the same. Locally, check out Walmart, Home Depot, or Lowe's, for 10% liquid chlorine or check independent pool stores for HASA 12.5% chlorine in refillable jugs. Stay away from laundry bleach as it can often contain unwanted additives.
 
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Rent a sump pump from Home Depot or buy one at Harbor Freight or Amazon.

Let's ping @Newdude to ask him to post a link to a decent one on Amazon.

Inland California - as in IE or Central Valley? Add the city to your profile.
I bought a Dewalt submersible pump - 1/3hp I think - pushes something stupid like 3000 gallons/hour - was on sale for like $80. Doesn't push as much when hooked up via a hosepipe, but still drains my hot tub in about 20, and that would work out to about 1200gph. Might be cheaper than renting one