Pool Temp and Opening

I finally got around to using a drill on the anchors and OMG it was a game changer. I zipped about half in and the other half out, depending on tension of the spring.

I spun them 10 times each by hand for 12 years like a sucker.

After that, the cover is totally manageable with 2 people. I didn't want to wait for the Mrs and folded it, carried it to the front lawn and laid it out to dry, folded it again and put it away in the garage solo this year. I'm a big dude but 2 can definitely handle it.

I always use the cordless drill. I also have that anchor cover tool for the stubborn ones.
 
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I take my cover off myself and plan on doing it tomorrow. It is easy to take off and if you have a helper even easier. I'll recruit my son to help if I can pry him away from his video games.
Unfortunately, I cannot manage my safety cover myself, it's just too big/cumbersome and I don't really have the help - so I pay the pool guys to remove in the spring, install in the fall....I do the rest.
 
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We just had a ton of flooding in western PA but the temps are looking like they will be in the 70s all this week, and then in the 50s and high 60s the next week after... I think I'm going to open the pool up Monday since I don't see any algae, but I want to at least do a thorough clean of the filter before I install it. I did clean it before I stored it, but it looks like there's still debris and Crud on it so I'm probably going to soak it overnight while I get the rest of the pool opened up on Monday. I already got the equipment out and positioned (and reattached the bonding to the pool pump since I don't leave the pump out in the winter.. I have a small shed nearby I store it in since it's easy to move it in there and keep it out of the elements).

I also think this year I'm going to skip using the Nature2 system I was given. I ran it for the first year of owning the pool and then the second year, but I feel like as long as I keep up with my testing and chlorine levels I shouldn't need it...
 
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If you properly sanitize your pool, algae can't grow and an algae control product is useless.

The methodology that needs an algae contol product is terribly flawed. Well. Unless you're involved in manufacturing or selling them.
That was my thoughts. It was "free" when I bought it (as we all know how that is), and I ran it last year before joining TFP but then after joining here I just kept running it last year because I had already bought the replacement cartridge. But this year it isn't installed for the exact reason you mentioned lol
 
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That was my thoughts. It was "free" when I bought it (as we all know how that is), and I ran it last year before joining TFP but then after joining here I just kept running it last year because I had already bought the replacement cartridge. But this year it isn't installed for the exact reason you mentioned lol

If you want to install a saltwater chlorine generator in your pool you can swap that out with the Nature2 FusionSoft. It's the same vessel footprint and plumbing. Just don't use the mineral cartridge that it comes with.
 
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We just had a ton of flooding in western PA but the temps are looking like they will be in the 70s all this week, and then in the 50s and high 60s the next week after... I think I'm going to open the pool up Monday since I don't see any algae, but I want to at least do a thorough clean of the filter before I install it. I did clean it before I stored it, but it looks like there's still debris and Crud on it so I'm probably going to soak it overnight while I get the rest of the pool opened up on Monday. I already got the equipment out and positioned (and reattached the bonding to the pool pump since I don't leave the pump out in the winter.. I have a small shed nearby I store it in since it's easy to move it in there and keep it out of the elements).

I also think this year I'm going to skip using the Nature2 system I was given. I ran it for the first year of owning the pool and then the second year, but I feel like as long as I keep up with my testing and chlorine levels I shouldn't need it...
Toss it. Test and dose as needed.
 
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Umm... Do NOT wait too long to open your pool. My 7 year streak is decidedly OVER! I officially opened to a swamp. I will start my SLAM and go sit in the corner..... :ROFLMAO: :laughblue::ROFLMAO::oops:o_O:cautious::cry::sick:

I just dumped in 6 gallons of 10%. Should raise my FC by 21.
 

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Welp. You know it was clean a few weeks ago....

But also realize that the water is 61 today. The top rain water with 0 FC may have been 70 last week for a day or two if the sun hit the cover just right on a warmer day.

I started mixing mine after draining each time. I tested this last time and even after draining the top water, it was still 0 FC. I would have expected some mixing to happen but it apparently didn't

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I have plenty of those bits and never closely looked at teh stem.
I'm at that age where I picked up the looploc tool and it 'felt like' an impact bit. So I went and got one and sure enough they matched.

Old guy protip #2. You need a 10mm socket 97% of the time. :ROFLMAO:
 
That's what I've been doing for the last 18 years.
Maybe you've mentioned it and it was hiding somewhere deep in the brain, long forgotten. Lol.

I set out to cut the allen key to fit the drill and went for the impact bits instead.
 
Now this is why I hang around TFP! I have plenty of those bits and never closely looked at teh stem.

This earned a place in the Wiki - Pool Cover Anchors - Further Reading

If you want to make any adjustments to Wiki, you could add "If the drill is two speed, use the slowest speed" and "If the drill has an adjustable torque setting on the chuck, set it at the #1 setting". Doing both of these things keeps me from damaging any threads in the anchor and often prevents spinning the anchor in the concrete. All you need to do is turn the anchor flush with the concrete in the spring. If someone uses a drill on high setting and high torque, they could cause the anchor to spin and damage the concrete before they take their finger off the trigger.
 
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Maybe you've mentioned it and it was hiding somewhere deep in the brain, long forgotten. Lol.

I set out to cut the allen key to fit the drill and went for the impact bits instead.

I'm not going to claim any credit for this. My Loop Loc installer showed me this trick.
 
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If you want to make any adjustments to Wiki, you could add "If the drill is two speed, use the slowest speed" and "If the drill has an adjustable torque setting on the chuck, set it at the #1 setting". Doing both of these things keeps me from damaging any threads in the anchor and often prevents spinning the anchor in the concrete
I already added to go gentle as the brass is easy to strip.

Allen may still wish to expand further.
 
If you want to make any adjustments to Wiki, you could add "If the drill is two speed, use the slowest speed" and "If the drill has an adjustable torque setting on the chuck, set it at the #1 setting". Doing both of these things keeps me from damaging any threads in the anchor and often prevents spinning the anchor in the concrete. All you need to do is turn the anchor flush with the concrete in the spring. If someone uses a drill on high setting and high torque, they could cause the anchor to spin and damage the concrete before they take their finger off the trigger.
Added your suggestions to the Wiki.
 
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