Pool service company disaster. What should I do?

I agree about the TA (my mistake).

But why do you say that I should leave the pH alone?
The current pH level is 7.0. According to Pool Math, the pH should be between 7.6 and 7.8.

Shouldn't I increase the pH? What am I missing?
PH will rise on its own. Test daily should be no more than a day or 2 to increase to recommended levels with a plaster pool.
 
Thank you so much guys! I would have made a mistake with pH, and I am glad you stopped me in time.
I went back to Pool School and re-read the page about pH :)

The pool is 90% full. Tonight I will restart the pump and add Chlorine and CYA.
I'll keep monitoring the pH daily and report the results.
 
I would add some of the CYA now, and brush the walls to help mix it. Maybe pour some in the area of the stream of water, the rest spread around the whole pool.

Then - BRUSH BRUSH BRUSH! You can add some Liquid Chlorine at the same time. Once the pumps are running, then put in the remainder of the CYA that you had planned. Again, start with 2/3rds or 3/4ths what pool math says, run pumps for 24 hours and then test CYA. Need it circulated.
 
Update 08/20:

I finally restarted the pump. I'll keep it on for 24 hours.

I added 2.5 gallons of liquid CYA (75% of the recommended amount). I tried to measure the level after 1h, but it's still below 30. I will wait 24 hours and re-measure it again.
I also added 1 gallon of liquid chlorine (12.5%).

The CH is at 60, and the recommended value is 350-550.
According to PoolMath, I should add 79lbs of Calcium Chloride. That sounds like a huge amount.
Does it sound right to you?
 
Update 08/20:

I finally restarted the pump. I'll keep it on for 24 hours.

I added 2.5 gallons of liquid CYA (75% of the recommended amount). I tried to measure the level after 1h, but it's still below 30. I will wait 24 hours and re-measure it again.
I also added 1 gallon of liquid chlorine (12.5%).

The CH is at 60, and the recommended value is 350-550.
According to PoolMath, I should add 79lbs of Calcium Chloride. That sounds like a huge amount.
Does it sound right to you?
Yes, the CH takes a lot to go up. ppm = mg/kg! Target 250 and add that much. And you may use Calcium Hypo Chlorite to further raise the CH level while you chlorinate the pool.
 
Yes - you can use Cal Hypo to raise CH and maintain FC. It may be more expensive than dealing with them separately; so consider that.
It depends on hw much cal-hypo you buy. But the prices have changed a lot so I can't really help there.

LC is much more expensive this year, and so is Cal-hypo.
 
Thant you all! I think we are almost there.

This morning the CYA was still below 30. I added another quart of liquid CYA and I'll re-measure in 24 hours.

The pH has increased from 7.0 to 8.0 (on its own). Should I bring it down to 7.6?
I have the Clorox Ph Down product (Sodium bisulfate). Is that what Pool Math categorizes as "Dry Acid"?
 

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Thant you all! I think we are almost there.

This morning the CYA was still below 30. I added another quart of liquid CYA and I'll re-measure in 24 hours.

Give the CYA a few days to mix before you measure it. You really don't want to overdo it.

The pH has increased from 7.0 to 8.0 (on its own). Should I bring it down to 7.6?
I have the Clorox Ph Down product (Sodium bisulfate). Is that what Pool Math categorizes as "Dry Acid"?

Yes, lower the pH.

You can use up the Dry Acid/pH down you have. But you should switch to Muriatic Acid. Read Acid - Further Reading to learn about the bad effects sodium bisulfate can have.
 
Give the CYA a few days to mix before you measure it. You really don't want to overdo it.



Yes, lower the pH.

You can use up the Dry Acid/pH down you have. But you should switch to Muriatic Acid. Read Acid - Further Reading to learn about the bad effects sodium bisulfate can have.
You saved me again guys!

I returned the Clorox Ph Down and got Muriatic Acid instead.

The last value I need to adjust is the CH. My local pool store did not have any products for CH, so I'll need to order 45 lbs or calcium chloride online.

I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, and this is entirely thanks to this forum!
 
One last question about Cal-Hypo.
As you recommended, I am going to raise CH to 250 and then start using Cal-Hypo to keep FC at the right level, instead of liquid chlorine.

Cal-hypo is only available in very big quantities (e.g. 50lb bucket), and considering we are close to the end of the season, I'd like a smaller quantity to cover the next 1.5 months.

Amazon sells "HTH 52026 Super Shock Treatment Swimming Pool Chlorine Cleaner, 1 lb" (pack of 12).

Ingredients:
- Calcium Hypochlorite: 56.44%
- Other ingredients: 43.56%

Would that product work? The fact that it's called "Super shock" made me a bit suspicious.
I want to make sure I don't add unnecessary chemicals to the water.
 
You will need about 1 of those packets per day. Each packet will add 2 ppm FC to your pool volume.

They are just low quality cal hypo. Should not add anything but chlorine and calcium to your water.
 
You will need about 1 of those packets per day. Each packet will add 2 ppm FC to your pool volume.

They are just low quality cal hypo. Should not add anything but chlorine and calcium to your water.
Oh wow, 1 lbs per day is more than I expected.
I plan to close the pool in mid-October, i.e. 50 days from now.

In that case, I'll go ahead and buy a 50 lbs bucket from InTheSwim for $179
 
The bulk product may be higher concentration of chlorine. So be sure to use Poolmath on what amounts you need.
 
Update 08/24:
- FC: 5
- CYA: 30 (targeting 40)
- TA: 70
- CH: 60
- pH: 7.6

I ordered 45 lbs of Calcium Chloride to bring the CH to 250. After that, I'll use Cal-Hypo to gradually increase CH.

Do you recommend adding all the 45 lbs of Calcium Chloride in one shot?
Is there any risk I might get cloudy water as a result of adding a lot of Calcium Chloride?
 

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