The plaster was finished on or around 10/24, and the fill took two days.How long has the plaster been in place?
The plaster was finished on or around 10/24, and the fill took two days.How long has the plaster been in place?
The plaster was finished on or around 10/24, and the fill took two days.
OK, so you're kind of past the usual 30 day curing period. What are you latest test results? If you can keep your CSI near 0 or even very slightly positive, you'll be ok. New plaster is always going to put upward pressure on the pH so you can probably target a pH of 7.6-7.7 and that would be good (easier to say if you post exact test results).
I would just used granular calcium chloride from where ever you can find it. You might have to bite the bullet and pay for the pool store markup as there's not a lot of demand for road de-icer in these parts.
I'll let your transgressions slide this time, but next slip up is going to cost you some smoked pork
Your pool equipment is fine. Metal corrosion is caused by pH and has little to do with CH.
Pro-tip - pre-dissolve granular calcium chloride in a 5 gallon bucket and add it around the pool. CaCl2-H2O solutions get hot with mixing. It will also clump and can possibly cause localized scaling so be sure to dissolve it first before adding it to the pool.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
Just for confirmation, you might want to perform the bucket test just to be able to prove you have a big differential. Do you know how to do that test?
It's HERE if you need it.
GOOD LUCK!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
Back to the CH for a second, I am sure reluctant to suggest adding CH to a pool when you haven't tested your fill water for CH. Am I missing that you did that already?
I edited my post above while you were responding, JN,.......sorry. That was a pool store test, right? I don't trust it.