Pool Pump won't start

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Brett S said:
For what it’s worth, you can get 240V breakers that are properly tied together even in the small space saving design. I needed to use one of these in my breaker box at one point. If you do wind up needing to replace a breaker you should use one of these so you can still meet code.

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This one has breakers for a 30A 240V circuit and a 40A 240V circuit.
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Yes, your 4 gang CB was designed to be interconnected. There is no excuse for the OPs breaker not being properly installed.
 
ecsii said:
Yes it has been that way for two years because when they installed the solar they used (one leg) one breaker for the solar and they set it up this way. Don't know what to do? But it has worked for two years.
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I would get a licensed electrician to move around the circuits and breakers to get it to code and fix the timer power problem.
 
ecsii said:
Could the breaker be malfunctioning when there is a load on it?
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Maybe the others have another thought. But I've seen CBs do some wacky things. If nothing else, I would get a new breaker or two and swap those out. At the very least if it doesn't resolve the issue you can always return them. :) But with nothing between the T104 and panel but a breaker, my bet's on the breaker.
 
ecsii said:
When I turn the breakers on there is 120 coming out of each one. Could the breaker be malfunctioning when there is a load on it?
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Is that tested at the breaker or at the timer?
 
Did you check the voltage between the 2 breakers running the pool pump? Not each to neutral or ground, but between the two? If you won't do that, disconnect the wires before testing voltage at the breakers. One breaker could be bad and you will still read voltage on the other as long as they are connected by the wiring because of the timer motor if nothing else.
 
You can swap 22 with 21 in the panel (if you aren't comfortable with electricity, get an electrician) and then use something like this for the legs to the timer (which would now be 20 and 21 :) ).


Fix would probably be around $60 for an electrician to do it (plus cost of breaker) but you'd have it to code and ease of mind.
 

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RMcGirr83 said:
You can swap 22 with 21 in the panel (if you aren't comfortable with electricity, get an electrician) and then use something like this for the legs to the timer (which would now be 20 and 21 :) ).


Fix would probably be around $60 for an electrician to do it (plus cost of breaker) but you'd have it to code and ease of mind.
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Unfortunately, that won’t work in his situation. He’s using the smaller space saving breakers which have two physical breakers for each position in the panel. 20 and 21 are on the same physical breaker and 22 and 23 are on the same physical breaker. It is still possible to get his panel up to code, but he would need to use space saving breakers similar to what I posted earlier.
 
Thanks for all the help. I have determined by switching the BLACK wire (that isn't getting electricity at the clock) with other breakers and then running another wire ( on the side walk to the clock) that the black wire must be broken. Have an electrician coming Monday to look at it. Probably going to restring new wire to the timer.
 
Had and electrician come out. He determined there was two bad wires in the conduit, but he took the wires from the heater and pool light and got me going. He also put the two legs on the same double breaker. This will keep my pool clean until the Coronavirus is over and I can restring new wire. Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it!
 
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