Pool pump motor fries / burns within 10 seconds.

sbjmg

Bronze Supporter
Mar 1, 2017
17
san diego
#1
After moving into my house and using the pool for 11 months. All three pumps died on the same day. Pump for pool, water features and spa. I called out the home warranty place and they brought out a new pump for the pool, connected it and it fired (assuming Capacitor blew). Now he left, i went back there and checked the voltage on the lines in and out and it measured properly (110v x 2 so 220). He came back today with a brand new pump (last one was a refurb). Connected it and according to him this one actually burned up where the circuit board in the back is visibly burned after having it on for 10 seconds.

When I think about it, how did all three motors die initially at the same time and now two replacements. He is at a lost even though he is the pro. What can I do while I am waiting, I doubt Home Warranty place will contiue to provide motors after the next one. And they likely will refuse to work on electrical.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
13,074
#2
You can't just check each line to ground and then add them together. You have to check line to line with no load and under load.

I recommend that you get an electrician to check your power supply.
 

pooldv

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 10, 2012
24,993
DFW, TX
#3
Welcome to TFP!

There is clearly an electrical problem either at the main panel or the pool sub panel if there is one. I don't know if home warranties cover electrical, but I don't see why it wouldn't. An electrician is definitely needed from in this case to troubleshoot the problem.
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
36,792
Tallahassee, FL
#4
While you are waiting to find the fix you can use a submersible pump to help move the water. Harbor Freight has some around $60 or so.

Good luck finding the problem. That sounds scary!

Kim:kim:
 
OP
OP
S

sbjmg

Bronze Supporter
Mar 1, 2017
17
san diego
#5
When I tested I tested the lines disconnected at teh motor tying both lines together it measured apporpriatly, without load. when measured seperatly tied to ground they were also right. At the sub pannel/computer testing the relay it was also correct. But again without load since I can't make a load without blowing the motor apparently?

Can this be caused by something else perhaps a clog in the line? that caused all motors to blow or is that absurd? Could this be a bad relay? I guess that would imply three bad relays which makes no sense.

I can call an electrician if needed but wanted to know if there was any DIY I could do first or at least what to have the electrician focus on.


Thanks again!
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,468
SW Indiana
#6
Anything that was wrong with the motor or pump would trip a breaker. This is a significant power problem. Something like a missing neutral at the transformer. I'd call your power company and tell them what has happened. Anything else in your home that is 240?
 
OP
OP
S

sbjmg

Bronze Supporter
Mar 1, 2017
17
san diego
#7
Oven is 220 and I use it regularly. AC is 220 but I have not used it recently out here in San Diego. The only thing that changed recently was there were heavy rains but I cant connect the two events in my head. Will call the power company but how would a neutral go missing all of a sudden. Everything has worked for the last year and assumbly the 14 years prior to me buying the house as the pumps/motors look about that in age.
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,468
SW Indiana
#8
I think I would not turn the AC on until you figure out what is going on.

In some wiring configurations, if the neutral wire is broken an imbalanced load on the phases can cause one of them to increase in voltage.
 

pooldv

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 10, 2012
24,993
DFW, TX
#10
Yes, I had a broken neutral in my main panel that somehow caused voltage spikes/drops in our shop building sub panel and carport sub panel that caused intermittent spikes to 150-160v on one leg and drops to 70-80 on the other leg. It was very weird. The only thing it fried was a 110v ryobi battery charger and I had intermittent errors on one of the 240v car chargers. Electrician found it and fixed it in about 10 minutes.
 

stevie3x

In The Industry
Feb 17, 2017
37
laguna hills , ca
#11
a neutral is not used in 220 vac configurations , don't know what hp your motors are however in the lower
hp motors 1/2 - 1.0 most can be switched to operate from 120 vac to 240 vac , perhaps the motor they installed was switched to run 120 vac , them connecting to your 220 - 240 vac fried it ? at least the capacitor
on another issue i don't subscribe to " used = reconditioned motors "
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,468
SW Indiana
#12
a neutral is not used in 220 vac configurations , don't know what hp your motors are however in the lower
hp motors 1/2 - 1.0 most can be switched to operate from 120 vac to 240 vac , perhaps the motor they installed was switched to run 120 vac , them connecting to your 220 - 240 vac fried it ? at least the capacitor
on another issue i don't subscribe to " used = reconditioned motors "
Even though the neutral isn't used on the circuit, a neutral problem can cause serious voltage oddities on circuits using both phases.