jackwalk1997

New member
Mar 15, 2025
3
Burlington
We recently moved into a new home about a month ago. As the warmer weather arrives, we wanted to convert our pool into salt water (previous owners had it as chlorine). I have ordered a salt water system that I think will work well (Pentair iChlor 30), but now the question is how to route the plumbing for the new salt cell. it is a dated system so there is not a ton of space to work with (see pics attached). I read that a salt cell should be at least 3 feet from the heater and shouldnt have too many turns.

I am planning to do the necessary plumbing myself so does anyone have any advice or tips based on the current setup as to how they would re-route the plumbing to be able to install a salt cell after the heater?

Thanks in advance

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I'm still a newbie, so maybe I'm getting things wrong. So, others will chime in.
First, I don't see more pictures, only one.

Regardless, you want to make sure the SWCG (Salt Water Chlorine Generator) is after the heater. The device takes salty water, and converts it to chlorinated water. I guess it's bad to have the heavy amount of chlorine in the heater, so that's why it comes after the heater.
Usually you'll use a check valve, which is a one-way valve, after the heater and before the SWCG. That way, if the pump is off or whatever the case, (freshly chlorinated) water doesn't go backwards back into the heater. Don't know if distance is a huge issue, but that check valve will do what your 'several feet' was doing, but probably better. (I'm in the process of doing the same thing, different SWCG, and I'm going to use a check valve with flow meter built in, so I can check how much water is going through.)

I have seen lots of people do their SWCG vertical, especially with not much room, so it would look something like below.



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The reason to place the SWCG after the heater (and the last thing prior to the water returning to the pool) is the hydrogen gas created in the SWCG. The chlorine level is not significant to the heater.
The check valve between the SWCG and heater is not necessary. There is no acidic water created in the SWCG and thus the heater is not in danger.
 
I read that a salt cell should be at least 3 feet from the heater and shouldnt have too many turns.
With a simple setup like yours and tons of flow, my 1st SWG was 90-d right to my heater.

+1 to going vertical, but make sure to mount the IC30 on the upflow side. The internal flow switch always needs gravity to open it when it fails, not to close it.
 
The reason to place the SWCG after the heater (and the last thing prior to the water returning to the pool) is the hydrogen gas created in the SWCG. The chlorine level is not significant to the heater.
The check valve between the SWCG and heater is not necessary. There is no acidic water created in the SWCG and thus the heater is not in danger.
Given my limited space, do you think there would be an issue not having my salt cell the recommended 3 feet from the heater outlet?
 
Burlington where?

Given my limited space, do you think there would be an issue not having my salt cell the recommended 3 feet from the heater outlet?

The SWG has a temperature sensor to get a more accurate salt reading.

Having the SWG too close to the heater can cause the SWG to give inaccurate salinity readings.

If you rarely use the heater that should not be an issue. If you often use the heater it could be.

Do the best you can and see how it works.
 
I would not install a new iChlor30 now. It is a low quality unit.

Why do you want the iChor 30?

If you want a Pentair SWG install the IntelliChlor IC40 or the new IntelliChlor Plus30 cell...


Or consider the Circupool RJ SWG.

And get rid of the flex PVC.
 
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