Pool pal vs pool math chem suggestions? Way diff.. why?

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AlbertD

AlbertD

0
Jun 6, 2016
38
Turlock, CA
I'm just about to pull the trigger and toss the chem guy. So I've been practicing, learning, etc.

I've downloaded and I stalled both the pool math app and the pool pal apps. Entering test results into them. Why is pool math so much different? Both are setup for a 30k inground plaster pool, using bleach for chlorine...

Here were my numbers, and it's suggested numbers... FC seems way way high on pool math?

One with blue background is pool pal. White background pool math...
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Most FC suggestions outside of PoolMath and TFP will ignore the CYA level. If your CYA is 130 then you need to keep your FC that high or the active chlorine level will not be high enough to kill algae faster than it can grow.

You really need to bring your CYA down, that is much too high.
 
PoolPal appears to be using 40 year old industry "standards" which have been very thoroughly debunked. The FC level you need to maintain is a function of your CYA levels - the more CYA, the more free chlorine is "locked up" in that CYA and unavailable to keep your pool clean.

Ditch PoolPal, and use either the official PoolMath app available from TFP, or you can use PoolLogger (Google it) which is a web based application which also utilizes the most current calculations that we use here at TFP.
 
If you are using a k2006 or TF-100 to test then absolutely do not take a sample to Leslie's for any reason. If we trusted pool store testing we wouldn't insist on people doing their own testing in the first place.

Trust your results, not their loss-leader.
 
Ok so a quick search indicates only was to drop my CYA by 50% is to drain 50% of pool and refill.... Doubt that can happen when it's 110 here in Cali, plus I have to pay for water. And that's a ton. Lol.

Leslie's indicated they have a chem to lower it, but I would assume throwing another chemical in the mix will likely just cause issues later.

So my second question is with the suggested high FC levels, is it safe to swim today if I raise them that high today?

Also, thanks for the tips on the two programs. That's why I was using multiple, to compare results to find the more accurate app.
 
The PoolPal app isn't actually giving you a suggestion. When it starts off, it has recommended levels set on the right. These recommendations are accurate for the average non-SWG pool in most of the US. It does not change your FC recommendation based on your CYA level, but will only give you the number based on your set targets, which for FC is 4.0. All you need to do is change your target FC to match your CYA level based on the FC/CYA chart and it will give you the correct suggestion. You should probably drain and refill to get that CYA down to a more manageable number.

It is safe to swim with the higher FC level as suggested in PoolMath.

The product that Leslie's sells is most likely BioGuard CYA reducer. The short story is that the product is complicated and can technically work but will take a while and most likely will do nothing. You will need to do a cost calculation to determine what costs more. Keeping FC that high, or replacing the water. You can use the tarp method to replace your water and still keep the pool filled. I'm not sure how much more water is over there, but that would be the best solution. If your CYA reading is correct, you would need to replace about 60% of your water. You can thank your pool guy for that. Good for you for letting him go.
 

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You can essentially do the tarp method without the tarp. Typically by draining from near the surface and adding water in the deep end at the same time. The temperature difference keeps the water more or less stratified.
 
You don't have the FAS-DPD chlorine test we insist is important for monitoring chlorine. Your test kit maxes out at 5ppm, which is ridiculously low for someone with a CYA of 130.

Go to TFTestkits and you can order just that test and it will make your test kit the equivalent of one we recommend. We don't recommend the K-2005 for just this reason.

Maddie :flower:
 
Ordered the FAS/DPD test kit (K-1515), along with a borates test strip kit and a phosphate test kit (pool guy says ours/our area is awfully high in general).

So the pool guy services our pool once a week, and drops in 3 pucks each week. If I understand correctly, this is whats adding to my CYA constantly?
 
Stay with it Albert, you are on your way to a trouble free pool. The learning curve is steep but avoid the "pot holes" and you will be there in no time.

Take control of your testing by getting a good test kit. Do not dump anything into your pool unless you know exactly how your system will respond. Adding things is the easy part, getting them back out of your water is the problem. Do not add CYA beyond the level need to protect your FC from sunlight degradation, so no long term Trichlor puck use.

Find your balance then keep it there by testing.
 
For now (til the FAS/DPD kit comes in), bumped my FC from 5.0 to 10.0 (2.5 CC). Pool guy comes tomorrow but hope to cancel him before he bothers making it out.

Dumped out what was left (not much) of the Trichlor pucks that were in the skimmer.

Once I get the kits in and run everything again, I'll make a new post in the Chem section. Rather than muddle up this topic.
 
I don't recommend using the tarp method for safety reasons, and also who wants to go buy a tarp that darn big, lol. A drain and refill at the same time, going at a slow rate so the pool level doesn't lower during the process is much better. You can call your water company and see if they give a discount on filling a pool, a lot of them do since they calculate sewage based on water consumption, and filling a pool doesn't use the sewage.

Also, if you do use the tarp method, make absolute certain you do not tie off the tarp to anything in the process, or the weight of all that water will break whatever it's tied to. The tarp should remain in place as it lowers with the water level, assuming you buy a tarp big enough to cover the pool and 10 feet extra. Again though, I strongly caution against this cuz of many hazards, like getting trapped under the tarp and drowning.
 
lightmaster said:
I don't recommend using the tarp method for safety reasons, and also who wants to go buy a tarp that darn big, lol. A drain and refill at the same time, going at a slow rate so the pool level doesn't lower during the process is much better. You can call your water company and see if they give a discount on filling a pool, a lot of them do since they calculate sewage based on water consumption, and filling a pool doesn't use the sewage.

Also, if you do use the tarp method, make absolute certain you do not tie off the tarp to anything in the process, or the weight of all that water will break whatever it's tied to. The tarp should remain in place as it lowers with the water level, assuming you buy a tarp big enough to cover the pool and 10 feet extra. Again though, I strongly caution against this cuz of many hazards, like getting trapped under the tarp and drowning.
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Interesting, thanks for the tip about checking with the water company!

What's the best method to drain? I have a 2" submersible pump, that I can use if needed, but can I just use the backflush option on the pool pump? Or one of the other options? Waste I think?


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