Pool Newbie, Cloudy Salt Water

TheShepherd

Active member
Jun 3, 2020
30
North Carolina
Howdy folks! I am new to pools and new to the forums as well. I've added all of the pertinent information to my signature, however, my test kits have not yet arrived so I do not have the most important data yet but should by this weekend.

Pool background: Built in the late 80s/90s, previous owners stopped using some time in the early 2010s. Vinyl liner was replaced ~2015-2016 and then house sat on the market for over 2 years and pool got very nasty. We opened in 2018 but then the filter failed before we could even use it, so closed it again. It's now been uncovered for 1 month and started as very dark green/brown with less than 18" visibility. As we do not know anything, started with local pool company. Brand new filter, new valves, salt cell is older and pump is older. Good progress the first two weeks and had visibility to about 4 feet. Then we hit this cycle:

Pool guys come on Friday when water is kind of cloudy and blueish. They dump in shock and salt - pool gets worse and turns dark green for ~ 2 days.
By Sunday, water is pretty clear and we can see to the bottom of the deep end where there is a lot of what I assume is dead algae (brownish and "poofs" up when you try to vacuum it)
By Monday-Tuesday, while still decent visibility the water is cloudy and you can no longer see the bottom in the deep end. (see pic)

They've put 6 bags of salt in over the last two weeks. The IC40 life button is blinking, the cell light is off and the salt level is red/low.

As I noted above, I do not have test results yet but will by the weekend. Based on what I have been reading for other similar situations, I am going to guess the FC is low, particularly compared to whatever level our CYA is. I've been vacuuming out the dead algae/debris in the bottom of the deep end this week, but still cannot see the bottom clearly due to the cloudy nature. I'm also concerned since the cell life button isn't on at all on the IC40 and the salt level is red/low. I'm not sure how many bags of salt to expect to need for a 30k pool.

Pool guys coming tomorrow and I am guessing they will shock it again, but based on what I have read and seeing that they are using some kind of granules and not bleach, could this just continue the cycle?

Edit to add I do not have any reason to suspect that our pool guys aren't great, but I'm a DIYer at heart and do not want to have to rely on someone else to keep the pool clean and problem free.

IMG_4802.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4800.JPG
    IMG_4800.JPG
    512.5 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_4801.JPG
    IMG_4801.JPG
    435.7 KB · Views: 24
Welcome to the forum!
In your situation, waiting on a proper test kit, we recommend you add 5ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine per day.
But -- you need to know what 'shock' the pool people are using. Or tell them to not add anything. You will handle it.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
The bad news is that I was unfortunately caught up in teleconferences all day Friday so when the pool guys came I missed them. However, I know they "shocked" the pool as I could smell the chlorine and also put in another couple go bags of salt. The same thing happened: Pool got a bit cloudy then within three hours was green and now is less green but still cloudy.

The GOOD news is I received my test kit! Below are my numbers as of 7:30AM this morning:

FC = .5ppm
CC = 2ppm
TC = 2.5ppm
CH = 175ppm
TA = 140
CYA = 0 (I assume the CYA test should make the water milky/cloudy so hard to see the dot but it did practically nothing with my pool water)
pH = 7.6-7.7
Salt = 2200ppm

For the CC test, it seemed there was a slow reaction going on. I'd put in a drop and it would seem to clear up but a few seconds would pass and it was pinkish again. I repeated this until after 4 drops it stayed clear.

Also I should point out that we live way out and are on a well. Possible that the CC and green color change in the pool is due to Cl binding to a metal? If so would it normally clear up in 24h or stay green? Ours turns green after the shock and then back to clear/blue within 24-48h.
 
You really need to stock up on liquid chlorine and not worry about the SWG yet. Get the pool clear first and then we can deal with the SWG. Treat it like a non-SWG pool for now.

Put 10ppm of FC into the pool, let it mix for 15 minutes, and test it again. Let us know what the FC is. Start there please and then we can help you with theSLAM Process. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheShepherd
You really need to stock up on liquid chlorine and not worry about the SWG yet. Get the pool clear first and then we can deal with the SWG. Treat it like a non-SWG pool for now.

Put 10ppm of FC into the pool, let it mix for 15 minutes, and test it again. Let us know what the FC is. Start there please and then we can help you with theSLAM Process. :)
I'm on it. (y) Do I need to worry about the CYA being 0 at this point?
 
I'm on it. (y) Do I need to worry about the CYA being 0 at this point?
Not quite yet but if it holds FC you’ll be adding CYA soon. There’s a rare condition where pools with no FC and CYA have a bacteria that converts CYA to ammonia. I want to rule that out before you add CYA.
 
You are good to go on starting the SLAM Process

Start dissolving 30 ppm worth of CYA using the sock method. Lower your pH to 7.2. Add chlorine to raise your FC to 12 ppm and maintain. Brush brush brush.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheShepherd

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
With 0 CYA in the water, the half life of chlorine in water is just under an hour with full sunlight on the pool surface.
 
If the sock is in the water you can assume you have 30 CYA going. That math is pretty steady and not much really affects CYA now that we've ruled out that funky bacteria. About 48 hours after the CYA is fully dissolved, you can test for it to ensure it's right and the math wasn't off or you weren't wrong about the pool volume, but otherwise keep FC at 12 and scrub like mad.

And photos. Photos help us understand where your pool is. And we like seeing them clear up too. :D
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheShepherd
Since I didn’t have enough Cl on hand yesterday it was back down to around 3ppm this AM. I went out and got the rest of my supplies and put in enough dry acid to get it down to around 7.2. Stabilizer is mostly dissolved. Will wait for the sun to get off and then load it back up to 12ppm and SLAM properly.

It’s actually pretty clear in the shallow end today.
 

Attachments

  • E68A6E92-56A1-40B8-A7C4-8D1DDC28187F.jpeg
    E68A6E92-56A1-40B8-A7C4-8D1DDC28187F.jpeg
    453.6 KB · Views: 41
  • 7C823CBB-B9BD-442A-AF44-20C5088C88A4.jpeg
    7C823CBB-B9BD-442A-AF44-20C5088C88A4.jpeg
    490.5 KB · Views: 43
  • BFF8D92B-B8AF-47E2-9D94-7EC525EEC311.jpeg
    BFF8D92B-B8AF-47E2-9D94-7EC525EEC311.jpeg
    541.9 KB · Views: 44
Been tough to get it to 12ppm but finally made it!

Tested after direct sun passed and had hit 7.2pH and had 1ppm FC at 5pm. I added what should have taken it to 12ppm but checked at 6:30 and it was 9ppm. Added again and checked about 7:45, now 8.5ppm but CC was up to 2ppm. 😬Added one last time 8:30pm and now at 9:30 it’s 13ppm FC and 1ppm CC. We’ll see what she looks like in the morning. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: kellyfair

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.