Pool light switch change to TP-LINK Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire

Subsailorjoe

New member
Feb 26, 2023
3
Florida
I’ve read through all the threads regarding this but couldn’t find a drawing/diagram to help me with this. This pool light switch is from a dedicated GFCI. In the switch box there are ganged house neutrals. The switch (see photo) has a black, white and ground. I tried connecting the white and black to the terminals of the Wi-Fi switch and ground to ground and switch white to the ganged home load/whites. It tripped the GFCI. Can’t figure out correct connections. Help please? 8DBA5AB2-8AB4-4B3C-900C-E0D1DC7FBC53.jpeg8DBA5AB2-8AB4-4B3C-900C-E0D1DC7FBC53.jpeg
 
Welcome to TFP.

Show the rest of the box.

Where does the white wire shown on the top screw run to?

I tried connecting the white and black to the terminals of the Wi-Fi switch and ground to ground and switch white to the ganged home load/whites

That switched white wire is not a neutral. You do not switch neutrals. I think that wire should have black tape wrapped around it indicating it is a hot wire run.

Post a wiring diagram for the Kasa switch you have.
 
The two wires connected to your existing switch are the “live lines”.

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I’m Did it this way and it tripped GFCI breaker

Show us pic of the complete box and all the wires.

Show us pics of how you connected the Kasa.

Whoever wired that circuit may have done some strange things. That white wire is not normal. You may need to figure out where each wire connects to.
 
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I suspect those ganged wires are not neutrals. It does not make a lot of sense to me that a bunch of neutrals would be tied together in a pool light box. But electricians do strange things.

Or those ganged neutrals may not run to the LOAD side of the GFCI the light is connected to.
 
the switch is inside the house in a 3 switch box. 1 switch is for lanai lights, 1 for lanai fan, and the last for the pool light. The 2 are wired standard fashion. It’s the pool light switch that as the white and black leading to it. It is on a separate dedicated GFCI breaker. Brand new house and pool in Florida and built/wires to code
 
the switch is inside the house in a 3 switch box. 1 switch is for lanai lights, 1 for lanai fan, and the last for the pool light. The 2 are wired standard fashion. It’s the pool light switch that as the white and black leading to it. It is on a separate dedicated GFCI breaker. Brand new house and pool in Florida and built/wires to code
There is likely a neutral wire in the box, but it will not be connected to a mechanical switch. It may be folded in the back with a wire nut on it or just fed through the box going to the light. The neutral is only used on things like smart switches, but is normally run to or through the box for that use, even if no such switches are installed during construction.
 
While you don't have the same "problem" it appears you have the same wiring method as this thread where all that is coming from the pool light is a switched traveler in a single 14/2 romex. Probably saved the builder $3 vs running a 14/3. If so, to make the switch smart will require much more work.
 
You could also try a no neutral required smart switch (though I have never tried one)
GE CYNC Smart Light Switch On/Off Paddle Style, No Neutral Wire Required, Bluetooth and 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi Switch, Works with Alexa and Google Home, (1 Pack) Packaging May Vary https://a.co/d/08PPlkz
 

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Some additional pictures of the whole box at various angles would definitely help. Do the white and black wires attached to that switch go into the same cable, and are there any other color wires in the same cable Since it's on a different circuit, it's quite possible the power is run to another point (perhaps the pool light junction box, or another junction box outside), and that only a 2-wire (plus ground) switch leg is going to the switch. If that's the case, you won't be able to install any neutral-required switch for it there. You can't tap neutrals that might be there for the other switches on another circuit (both by code and because it would trip the GFCI anyway). The white wire there is actually hot (it's supposed to be taped/painted/marked black, but that's often not done).

If it's going to another junction box outside (not the special pool light box), you might be able to install the Kasa switch there depending on location, though you'd lose the ability to control it from the switch inside and have to use the app (there are some ways to add a "dummy" switch to trigger the light but let's not confuse things yet).

But get us some more pictures and we'll help out...
 
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